Eddie 70

iTrader: (3)

I have read the sticky and am pulling the wires I need out of the connectors so I can connect them to thier power supplies and such. What are you doing with the leftover wires that are not needed? I would like to eliminate them from the harness to keep it neater. Any suggestions as to how to eliminate them would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Eddie Raines

LS1MCSS

iTrader: (18)

Pull all the loom, and tape, off the harness and completly remove the wires you don't need. You'll have to remove the gray plastic covers from the pcm connectors, and also the red and blue covers. You can remove the pins by cutting the wires close to the pins and push them out the front. Do yourself a favor and get some new loom. The old stuff will look like hell by the time you finish modding the harness. Make sure you solder and heat shrink and new connections. Butt splices just don't make it in an application where you never want a bad connection.

Eddie 70

iTrader: (3)

I agree with the solder connections. That is the only way as far as I am concerned.

I will pull off all the loom and tape. Okay, if I pull from the connectors C100, C101, C105, C220 and C230 the wire required, Can the rest of the wires and the weather packs be pulled out of the harness? This was my plan for those connectors.

LS1MCSS

iTrader: (18)

If you are using a 99-02 LS1 harness, here are all of the schematics. You can use these to figure out exactly which wires to remove and what size fuses to use for the power wires.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversions-swaps/936409-99-02-schematics.html

01WS6/tamu

iTrader: (37)

Once I have pulled all of the excess wiring pins from the pcm connector I always use a tube of ge silicone for doing tubs that has the small spout and then lightly fill the empty hole in the connector to prevent water intrusion.

Eddie 70

iTrader: (3)

My conversion is Manual. The harness is an automatic. Is okay to remove all the connectors on the branch of the harness? That would be both rear O2 sensors, VSS and tranny connector. I am thinking of cutting those wires and pulling them back toward the red and blue connectors. Would this be okay?

Eddie 70

iTrader: (3)

Good idea. I may try your advice. Thanks for your idea.

LS1MCSS

iTrader: (18)

Leave the VSS connector. An LS1 can be tuned to run without the VSS, but it will run smoother with one. They tend to try to die when coming to a stop without one. All other automatic related wires can be removed.

Eddie 70

iTrader: (3)

I am glad you mentioned this. I would have pulled it out and not thought a thing about it. My trans, Keisler Tremec TKO 500, has a connection for this. I guess I will connect it to the plug and see.

Eddie 70

iTrader: (3)

I thought I had labeled all of my connectors. I was wrong. On my 02 sensors, the bank 1 and 2 sensor 1's are both front, correct? The bank 1 and 2 sensor 2's are rear, correct? I pulled the loom off and took with it my labels. Crap!!

LS1MCSS

iTrader: (18)

Front O2's are bank 1 sensor 1 and bank 2 sensor 1. Bank 1 will always be on the same side as cylinder 1. You will also need to know how many "pulse per rev" the VSS is.

Eddie 70

iTrader: (3)

Thanks. I think I got it worked out and the harness should be done and ready to go now. The hard part now is my buddy with HP Tuners just left yesterday on vacation and will be gone for a week or so on a cruise. I have lots of leftover wire I can use for other stuff, maybe power for the relay pick ups.

Eddie 70

iTrader: (3)

Finally finished paring my harness this afternoon. The only thing I need to do to complete it is run the harness in the car so I can connect the OBDII port.


Here is the pile of wires and connectors not being used in my swap.



The best part about picking up the OBDII port, at the junkyard was the car was right next to the road and it was a new wreck. The dash had been disassembled and the lower dash pad was just laying there. The connector just slides out of the dash pad and I cut about a foot of the wire. The guy at the counter just waved at me when I asked how much for the connector. Sweet!!

Now let's hope I did a good job and the car will run when the harness is installed and VATS is removed. Wish me luck.

whitesmoke00

iTrader: (12)

awesome. great job. sucks that im up here in minnesota. be home monday sometime so it will run sooner or later.

Kamin

HAH ive got that same picture from my wiring




gm wiring is very simple to understand, dont worry, youll be fine

and o2 sensors are for bitches! (if your tuner is amazing, like mine lol)

Eddie 70

iTrader: (3)

I don't know how good my tuner is. It will be my first shot at using HP Tuners.


I do have a buddy that is pretty good with it though. If I can get it running, we will be going to a dyno and spending some quality time there instead of on the street.

G-Body

iTrader: (4)

Why would you want to run without them? Unless your running leaded fuel I don`t understand why you wouldn`t want them there to correct for weather variations etc. The junkyard that I bought my engines from always says how they don`t run o2`s on their conversions and that you don`t need them, but they never gave me a good reason as to why not.

LS-10

So would you guys say as long as you have a decent understanding of the harness and what goes where that it isn't worth it to pay a few hundred to mod your own harness? How long does it usually take to eliminate the unnecessary crap out of the harness?

LS1MCSS

iTrader: (18)

It usually takes 3-6 hours, depending om how fast you are and how much stuff you are removing. If you're going to leave all the smog stuff on it, you could do it in two to three hours.

thunderstruck507

iTrader: (18)

like I said in my post, it was so easy once I understood the sticky that I'm still wondering if I done it right because there's no way it should cost $2-300 for what I did lol, even if I did go back and pull the unneeded wires for the harness instead of just leaving them