checking clearance for duals before the welder attacks
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checking clearance for duals before the welder attacks
I am just posting to see if you guys could eyeball my clearances for true duals. My car is on stands and putting it on the ground would essentially make the whole thing fall apart. Figured some of you folks might be able to tell by these pictures.
by running a long straight edge (aka level) I have determined that the headers are going to be the lowest point. Do you all think I am ok or need to raise it up a bit?
As you look at it consider that my floor pan has been severly clearanced for a past torque arm/exhaust set up I once had. I also do not need to worry about torque arm interference (y-bar)
by running a long straight edge (aka level) I have determined that the headers are going to be the lowest point. Do you all think I am ok or need to raise it up a bit?
As you look at it consider that my floor pan has been severly clearanced for a past torque arm/exhaust set up I once had. I also do not need to worry about torque arm interference (y-bar)
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Clearance looks good but its hard to tell with no real reference to the ground. I'd go as tight as you can without it hitting or the DS hitting if you let the rearend drop by raising the car up by the body. Just put a few tack weld on there and then check the clearance by lowering the car back down. Better off to take the time now rather than weld it all up and find out later it won't work. What mufflers are you putting on there? Man thats a ton of jack stands.. lol.
Any pics of the Y bar?
Any pics of the Y bar?
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no torque arm on this car. I am running a pete-z bar style setup.
The lower control is really just a temporary slution until I pick up some more chromoly and make a nice strong bracket for it to attach to, so far it seems fine though.
I just finished flipping my fuel lines as well.
The lower control is really just a temporary slution until I pick up some more chromoly and make a nice strong bracket for it to attach to, so far it seems fine though.
I just finished flipping my fuel lines as well.
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I did it because I did not want to deal with making a torque arm bracket for my ford 8.8". I understand how to do it, but it would have had to pay people to cut out the pieces of steel I needed (I don't have a plasma). The link style set up I chose to use has been proven many times, but if I don't like it I am going to attach the upper control arm to a spot on the frame.
Its really as simple as it looks. bracket on the axle, bracket on the control arm, tube with bungs on each end and then fit into the brackets. As soon as I finish the exhaust I am going to adjust my pinion angle, I beleive right now I am going to be about +3 degrees off.
I have maganaflow 4x9's for it, but I also have a set of spiral flo's. I might end up using the spiral flo's as resonators if its too loud for me.
Its really as simple as it looks. bracket on the axle, bracket on the control arm, tube with bungs on each end and then fit into the brackets. As soon as I finish the exhaust I am going to adjust my pinion angle, I beleive right now I am going to be about +3 degrees off.
I have maganaflow 4x9's for it, but I also have a set of spiral flo's. I might end up using the spiral flo's as resonators if its too loud for me.
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yeah... they are really beat in. I used to run a crossmember mounted torque arm and had true duals with really low clearance. I beat it in so I could drive with the crossmember and not worry so much.