HoLLo

iTrader: (17)

Ok after about 19 hours worth of work, we finally got my Pacesetter race coated longtubes installed. I removed the AIR/EGR also and installed a blockoff kit for the EGR. Pulled out all the vacuum lines and harnesses plugged into any EGR/AIR solenoid. Capped one of the intake manifold vacuum ports on driver side. Also installed some NGK TR6 gapped at about .035.

I go to start it up today, let it idle for awhile and then take it for a test drive. At first I saw smoke coming from the engine bay, but we believed it to be tape that we could not get off the header when we installed them. I give it a WOT rev and at about 3500 it started to cut up, and about 4000 i would see Check Gauges flash very quickly once, and just kinda resisted going any higher than 4000. We get down to the gas station and notice the vacuum hose going from the throttle body to the passenger valve cover was off, we put that back on and it seems better. But something still doesn't feel right, it doesn't feel like all the power is REALLY there 100%. We get down the road, I let my friend drive my car so I can hear it pulling off, and when I get back to driving, my ABS INOP light is on and so is my BRAKE light. I turn the car off, and turn it back on, both lights are off and immediately come back on.

Also, my battery guage was sitting at like 1/3 the way the entire time, and everything seemed dim, windows went up SLOOOW. I also noticed when I came to a stop the rpm would drop down below 1000 like to 8-900 and then go back up, which it would never do before. Oil pressure seemed a little low at idle also.

Any ideas please?

I8ASaleen

iTrader: (9)

Well first off those plugs are gapped too narrow. Should be close to .045 or .050 that might explain a lack of power. Are you sure that the alternator wire connection was put back in b/c it sounds like you aren't charging right. Also check any ground that may have come loose. Also do you have a tune to delete the AIR and EGR stuff? If not your gonna have a code.

HoLLo

iTrader: (17)

Also forgot to note I installed a Pacesetter Offroad Y Pipe. Somewhere I read on here TR6s need to be gapped at .035. I do have Nitrous on the car that I plan to spray when I get everything running right. I do not have a tune, but will get one before August when I'm due for tag renewal. I'm sure I got everything tight on the alternator, but I'll check again tomorrow.

I8ASaleen

iTrader: (9)

Well I dunno about the N2O thing, but right now your car is not going to perform as it should with plugs gapped that narrow. Maybe on spray it will do better, but not off. I'd also say double check all of your vacuum hoses again b/c you could have a leak causing that erratic idle.

HoLLo

iTrader: (17)

After it drops down to 800-900ish and goes back up, it actually idles pretty smoothly. I will check the spark gap when I get home. How will N2O run on a .045 gap?

Badazz 97 TA

iTrader: (18)

the smoke was probably from all the oil and stuff from your hands when you touched the headers. no big deal that way. at first it sounded like you might of had a burnt plug wire. most common cylinders for that to happen are #5 and #6. they sit the closest to the primary and burn pretty easy if you dont have one of those metal heat boots on.

but then you said you only had 1/3 charge. did you plug in that plastic connector that goes into the bottom of the alternator? is it on tight. check your battery connections and the other connection on the alternator.

the lack of egr or air wont cause it to missfire or break up. im thinking its more of a burnt plug wire or a bad electrical connection somewhere.

HoLLo

iTrader: (17)

Ok, well this morning, I tightened both battery terminals, and hooked the small plug back up at the bottom of the alternator. It was very loose, on the way to work, it went back down to like 1/3 charge. So i think it must have fell out.

It isn't misfiring. I think all the plug wires are good, I made sure they were out of the way. It definitely seems like the gap is a little too small. How will TR6's like a .045 gap?

I8ASaleen

iTrader: (9)

I think they'll do fine, but I'm not expert on TR6's. LT1's do not like running on a smaller gapped plug unless they're blown or high compression.

Revelation Z28

iTrader: (10)

check your wheel sensor harness on the passenger side frame rail. my LT burned it and exposed the copper in the wire and from time to time itll arc onto the primary or body.

HoLLo

iTrader: (17)

Ok I have found the culprit. When I installed my headers and removing my alternator we apparently broke the small 1-wire harness that connected to my alternator. This morning before work, it had been pulled out, so i popped it back in and then on my way to work it popped out again. I noticed it would not stay in at all. All last night and today it ran shitty, with the volt gauge around 9volts riding around. When the harness was plugged in, it reported the normal 13v and run good.

I had to have my friend boost me because my battery had died, and we connected the harness and it charged; on my way home again today it fell off on the highway and my battery gauge dropped below 8v, all my gauge lights were flashing like ABOS INOP, AIR BAG, etc. The speedo was shooting around rapidly, and pulling in to my neighborhood, it died. Got boosted again, went back home and epoxied the damn harness into the alternator for good.

Now my car pulls SO strong and actually runs great! No more hesitation over 4000rpm and no more surging. Smooth crisp idle.

To sum my problem up for searchers: broken 1-wire alternator harness.

I8ASaleen

iTrader: (9)

I had a sinking suspicion that was the problem whenever you kept having charging issues and I thought it may have popped out.

HoLLo

iTrader: (17)

Yep, still running like a champ with proper battery guage around 13v.

On my way to work today my car started to jerk a little, found a wire resting against the header. Pulled it away and still runs great. I love MSD wires.