E.W.P And Heating up?
07-05-2008, 12:20 AM
#1
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E.W.P And Heating up? installed a CSR E.W.P and some other goodies in the last wile and have noticed that well driving my car gets smokin hot, like 3/4 to almost in the red very often, yet when it jsut sits and idles it will cool down to just under half..WTF?! stock my car wouldent even get ready half temp on the gauge when id run it hard..any ideas besides the "its turbo charged" im looking to try and keep this thing to be DD but this goofie heating issues is a pain when ive got traffic
07-05-2008, 12:43 AM
#2
You still have an air pocket in your coolant system. I'm assuming when you put the OFI radiator in the car you tried burp the system. LT1's are notorious when it comes to removing air pockets. I would be willing to bet that it's even more difficult if you removed the small bleeder valve assembly on the left front side of the motor close to the water-pump housing. Every time I have flushed my coolant system it has taken me a-while to remove the air pockets completely. The temperature will do all kinds of crazy stuff until you remove the air-pocket. Also, I run the Meziere pump on mine and it set at 170-ish (160 thermostat) all the time. Yours should be in the same ballpark when the system is working correctly.
07-05-2008, 01:01 AM
#4
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ive still got both the bleeder screws, and burp ths system?..if that means having the car at a 45* angle with that dopey expantio tank hanging off the hood well running the car and filling it
yes
yes
07-05-2008, 01:11 AM
#5
I'm not sure I know what you mean (EIR*#:URO) Enough of that talk, just keep burping the system using the bleeder valve, eventually a pocket of air will come out of the system and you should see your temps stabilize in the 170 / 180 range. Assuming you have a 160 thermostat in the car ?
07-05-2008, 08:02 AM
#7
You understand that at rpm the elctrics move a lot LESS water than the stocker?
At idle the electrics move more, but by cruise rpm depending on gears the CSR is already behind the mechanical flow wise.
Usually they are sufficient to keep a DD or drag car cool, but intercoolers or the like in front of the radiator would affect system performance more easily.
At idle the electrics move more, but by cruise rpm depending on gears the CSR is already behind the mechanical flow wise.
Usually they are sufficient to keep a DD or drag car cool, but intercoolers or the like in front of the radiator would affect system performance more easily.
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07-05-2008, 08:24 AM
#8
TECH Fanatic
^^^ I was thinking the same thing about the EWP's not changing with RPM. That would seem to fit the problem description... But then there's these other guys here saying they dont have problems with theirs. Do you still have the coolant steam vent tube on the back of the block?
07-05-2008, 09:47 AM
#9
^^^ I was thinking the same thing about the EWP's not changing with RPM. That would seem to fit the problem description... But then there's these other guys here saying they dont have problems with theirs. Do you still have the coolant steam vent tube on the back of the block?
07-05-2008, 10:03 AM
#10
That would be because of fan turnon temps in the pcm. At a stop the fans control engine temp, once moving any decent rate of speed forward motion moves air through the radiator causing the thermostat to be in more complete control of temp. There is actually a MPH in the pcm programming to turn the fans OFF because they become a hinderance to the incoming air and it is bretter to let them freewheel. On the b-body I think it is 48mph.
07-06-2008, 02:11 AM
#11
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ive still got all the cooling system stuff, only thing that has really been changed is the CSR EWP and the rad with expantion tank
still have stock thermo stat as far as i know, i have never changed it but it may have been befor. the car some where along the line got a set of 3.73's so im not sure what els has been changed.
ill let the car get nice and hot and bleed it a few more times and see how it goes.
is there any thing i could do to get more air to the fans well driving, i dont currently have that leaf dam/ air gaurd thing under the car, could that make a big diff well driving?
still have stock thermo stat as far as i know, i have never changed it but it may have been befor. the car some where along the line got a set of 3.73's so im not sure what els has been changed.
ill let the car get nice and hot and bleed it a few more times and see how it goes.
is there any thing i could do to get more air to the fans well driving, i dont currently have that leaf dam/ air gaurd thing under the car, could that make a big diff well driving?
07-06-2008, 04:43 AM
#12
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That makes a huge difference. That air dam is what pulls all the air up into the engine compartment.
I have the CSR here in AZ where the summer temps push around 125* degrees. Since I put the EWP on there, no problems to report at all.
I have the CSR here in AZ where the summer temps push around 125* degrees. Since I put the EWP on there, no problems to report at all.
07-06-2008, 03:35 PM
#14
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2 summers ago, my car did the same thing- I had a CSR waterpump (was about 3 years old). All of a sudden my car started gettin real hot and over heating, and i really thought it was a cracked head or block..
I decided to check out the waterpump and steam tube that bolts to the back of the heads, well i took those bolts out behind the heads and the holes in them were filled with junk, like build up of what looked like casting sand. I drilled the holes out a bit larger and cleaned the junk out of them, then soaked the steam tube in a parts washer for a day and then blew it out and cleaned it up. Next i took the water pump apart and when i pulled the CSR pump out of the LT1 housing i noticed that the housing was pitted very bad and that same junk i saw in the steam tube bolts was in the bottom of the water pump housing. I also turned on the waterpump motor - come to find out the seal had gone bad and the motor had stopped working..
I purchased a new water pump housing, called CSR, and sent my CSR unit to them, they rebuilt it and sent it back within like 3 days, put everything together and a new 180 thermostat, spent an hour flushing the coolant system with the Prestone back flush kit, Prestone Radiator Cleaner & Flush, filled her back up with coolant and spent another hour making sure it wouldnt over heat.
after all that the car ran cooler than ever and still does. I have a 180 thermo in there and the coolant temp never gets above like 187- the needle just sits right above the 2nd mark on my coolant gauge in the dash..
I decided to check out the waterpump and steam tube that bolts to the back of the heads, well i took those bolts out behind the heads and the holes in them were filled with junk, like build up of what looked like casting sand. I drilled the holes out a bit larger and cleaned the junk out of them, then soaked the steam tube in a parts washer for a day and then blew it out and cleaned it up. Next i took the water pump apart and when i pulled the CSR pump out of the LT1 housing i noticed that the housing was pitted very bad and that same junk i saw in the steam tube bolts was in the bottom of the water pump housing. I also turned on the waterpump motor - come to find out the seal had gone bad and the motor had stopped working..
I purchased a new water pump housing, called CSR, and sent my CSR unit to them, they rebuilt it and sent it back within like 3 days, put everything together and a new 180 thermostat, spent an hour flushing the coolant system with the Prestone back flush kit, Prestone Radiator Cleaner & Flush, filled her back up with coolant and spent another hour making sure it wouldnt over heat.
after all that the car ran cooler than ever and still does. I have a 180 thermo in there and the coolant temp never gets above like 187- the needle just sits right above the 2nd mark on my coolant gauge in the dash..
07-06-2008, 09:07 PM
#15
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i just did a drain, clean and fill on the system befor i changed out the rad to the new unit, coolant was dark but clean,. ill get the air dam on there and see how it goes. the day it was heating up was about 105-110*F
08-05-2008, 11:37 PM
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You NEED that airdam on there ASAP. When I bought my car, I fought cooling issues for awhile, I did not know the purpose of this "airdam". My car would be running down the highway would be like 210-225. I found out the purpose of the airdam, and bought one used for $10 and installed it. It immediately dropped my temps to normal range. 180-195.
Easy fix.
Easy fix.
08-06-2008, 12:03 AM
#19
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sorry guys. lots of hecktic bad car news
got the air dam on for a few drives and it helped. still air in the system but its ok becuse the head gaskets died on me after taking it to a local speed shop and having them over heat the car, warp the heads and drain the motor of all coolant and letting me drive it home with out telling me
so...ill give a 100% update next sumer when i get a fresh motor in her, untill then....she stays ncie and cold
....in the drive way on jack stands 
got the air dam on for a few drives and it helped. still air in the system but its ok becuse the head gaskets died on me after taking it to a local speed shop and having them over heat the car, warp the heads and drain the motor of all coolant and letting me drive it home with out telling me
so...ill give a 100% update next sumer when i get a fresh motor in her, untill then....she stays ncie and cold
....in the drive way on jack stands 