JAvenger007

iTrader: (9)

Has anyone tried this yet? The 2.25" piping for the rear mount kills ground clearance on the driver side running along the pinch rail, so there's no longer jack points available and the car smashes the piping whenever lifted near the rear axle since it drops down on a spider lift.

I don't really care about cost, but I'd like to know if it would be sturdy/secure enough and take well to pinching jacks/lifts and scrapes (very unlikely to happen). Also, more importantly is performance. Is airflow affected dramatically versus the possibly smoother aluminum? I would basically replicate the aluminum path of travel that is there currently.

Perhaps it could be wrapped in tape to add strength to the ply?

Broke EF

Just another reason the turbo should be in the front.

Sean

koolaid_kid

iTrader: (21)

Now THAT was a helpful response.
I don't think you would want the entire length to be silicone, unless there was some way to reinforce it internally. Think of radiator hoses. They are strengthened so they don't collapse. If I had your problem, I would probably lean more towards flattening the aluminum tubing. You'll lose a bit of flow, but retain the strength.

JAvenger007

iTrader: (9)

I figured the long sections would collapse but I thought I saw the APS Twin Kit running long hoses for their kit. I think I would just replace the areas around the rear axle and the area near the front pinch rail driver side. I never scrape, but I have MAJOR issues with jacking the car and going onto lifts. Going to shops is like being the kid with a picky diet, too many compromises have to be made.

70Stang

iTrader: (2)

Pics of your problem areas?

rx_treme

iTrader: (9)

they do sell oval tubing. its more expensive but works well.

EPP

iTrader: (22)

http://www.burnsstainless.com/OvalTu...valtubing.html

Check this link out. Bob

CamaroSS19

iTrader: (24)

I wouldnt do it silicone, it will wear quicker and will definetly not take lifting the car on the silicon .

Your just going to have to jack the car up from the rear and then lift the pads on on the lift to get to the lift points or blocks of wood .

There is definetly a way to get the car up . Lots of people running these rear mount

rx_treme

iTrader: (9)

exactly, works awesome just expensive. i have seen it in mild steel too at Racing Plus. you can google mild steel oval exhaust tubing or something

Schantin

iTrader: (6)

I'd stay away from the silicone too....back to the collapse issue mentioned earlier.

Couple things that might help ya'. 1. You can lift the car on the mount pad where the rear STS pipe bolts to the driver-side LCA. Otherwise, I used the inner subframe (which is near where the oil return pump is located).

To help get the car up to the lift, you can literally pull up on the fenderwell as the car is pushed onto the lift. This will give you an added 1/2 inch or so and usually did the trick for me when I had to use a shop-style lift

Another technique is having a couple 2x4's placed to give added clearance as you drive over the lift pads. (place the boards before/between/and after the lift points.)

JAvenger007

iTrader: (9)

Thanks for the tips. The piping is wedged in between that little opening next to the pinch rail running down the driver side. I'd love to find some of those rubber lift pads for flat lifts (ones that you drive onto rather than the spider style). We had a few at my old shop but I have not been able to find them online. I think that is the best way of doing it front and rear and giving it the clearance. Not a single part of the system has scraped, but lifting just creates some issues.

edit: forgot to mention that the link doesnt have 2.25" oval only bigger. Also, the circular barely fits as it is. I think the oval would be too wide and need to be dropped lower to get the needed width (thus hurting ground clearance more).

ZDOG

iTrader: (13)

why would the silicone collapse if its under pressure?
i do agree its a bad idea. that much silicone would introduce more lag and raise your max rpm boost. (it will balloon) plus it would be vary easy to tear and burst.

hell im going through replacing as much as my procharger rubber with aluminum just to help build psi a little quicker.

it sounds like you need some type of flexible connection to allow more play for the axle swing. maybe you can find some type of flex just for that area. it wont be cheap but look at some construction parts as ideas. pipe fitters use flexable fittings coming off of pumps and electritions use sealtite conduit which is sealed, but to adapt to automotive fitting and connections would be the tricky part.

dannyj661

would collapsing in silicon inner cooler cause no boost or loss in boost this is what is happening with truck kit and another guy had the same issue.

stevieturbo

Silicone pipe runs that length would be dumb on so many levels...and if ground clearance is one of them, a silicone pipe of same flow diameter will be a good bit larger than any solid pipe.

It's just a bad idea with no positives.

roastin240

iTrader: (13)

Take normal tubing, smash it into an oval shape and plumb it. Cheap and will work

3 window

iTrader: (1)

It's like using a zip tie for a cockring, sure it'll work, but it's a horrible idea.

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

Stainless Steal hose won't collapse. You can buy it in 6 foot lengths. 2-3" inner diameter.

.

gametech

iTrader: (1)

When you first hit the throttle, the turbo isn't spooled, so you get normal engine vacuum through the pipes. This sucks shut any silicone piping. On my STS kit I used to have on the gto, this was only a problem at the elbow to the throttle body. I can't imagine scaling this problem up to include the entire cold side. As a side note, I would never go back to a rear mount. I have driven vehicles with the exact same turbo in both rear and front mount configuration, and the difference in spool and under the curve power is night and day. I tuned both of those vehicles with the same brand of wideband hooked to the same laptop and HPtuners interface. Needless to say, I was disappointed at the time because my vehicle had the rear mount.