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New to this, need suspension up-grade advice

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Old 09-03-2008, 08:27 PM
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Question New to this, need suspension up-grade advice

So yeah,

I will admit it, I am fairly new too LS1 "performance" know-how...at least compared to my brother SHINER. But, I am ready to learn and spend a little money every month or so to get my newly paid-off '01 WS6 fixed up to where I want it.

Now, I dont plan to cam it out, at least not while it is used as an every-day driver. BUt I would like to pretty much up-grade all the rest if I can.

The main thing I want to do with in the next few months, is drop the rear-end an 1" or so, and replace the overall front and rear suspension components that are now 100K miles old, with not necassarily the "latest & greatest", but with good, solid, after-market suspension components that will give me a tighter and just overall better ride..especially on turns and operating at high speeds.

My question to the forum is this:

Where do I start? What are the most common and significant components that can be switched out (specifically in the front) for not a boat load of cash, that would give me the biggest improvement in drive quality and performance?

I figured, new aftermarket springs in the back, and of course new shocks and struts all around would be a good start, but my suspension expertise is limited to off-road 4x4 type stuff.

Thanks in advance for any pointers.
Old 09-03-2008, 09:28 PM
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Hi PMCSpider. I think you have identified how you want to use your car, but to make sure i understand correctly, let me summarize:

1. Daily Driver with 100k miles
2. You want a lower stance
3. Improved handling

For the major components, such as shocks, springs, bars, Pan Hard Rod, Sam Strano has a nice well balanced package of matched components. Check out his web site at: Stranoparts.com. He is considered by many, including myself, an expert on F-Body setup.

He has very good front and rear springs which are matched with Koni Shocks. An adjustable PHR will be necessary if you lower the car or else the rear will not be centered in the chassis. Then upgrade the front and rear sway bars to his 35 mm ft and 22 mm hollow bar. This makes for a well balanced, predicable, and great handling vehicle. Sam includes the poly bar mounts and the endlinks with his bars, so no need to replace these until you get his bars, you'll save money this way.

I basically run his set up on my ESP Camaro (checkout my website) however instead of his springs, I run a set of "standard sized" Eibach springs with weight jackers, but that's probably overkill for your needs.

Now considering your car has 100k on it, I think I'd start with some maintenance items first: Replace all the front bushings on the car with poly bushings from either energy suspension or Prothane, except for the rear lower control arm bushing (aka the caster bushing) Use a Moog replacement bushing in this location because the poly bushings in this location do not last very long. Both Poly and Moog are available at the big box hot rod stores, and I believe Sam also carries them as well for the same price.

While you've got the control arms off, you'll probably want to replace the upper and lower ball joint with Moog "problem solver" ball joints. They are a real high quality ball joint and I've not heard of anyone having an issue with them. Also, check out your tie rod ends, they may be a little sloppy.

One other maintenance item: Check the front hubs for play. There should be no more than 0.006" of "play" measured at the stud.

In the rear, replace the trailing arm bushing with Poly bushings as well. I found found that there is very little need for aftermarket control arms and/or trailing arms on a street driven car. In other words, you won't notice the improvement.

A good alignment. Once you've got the car all back together, have it aligned. Have the shop dial in a little negative camber up front and a little toe out. Personally I run -1.5 camber, 3/8 total toe out, and +4 caster. However tire wear will be really high with this much adjustment, so you'll probably want to back off on the camber and toe.

Then if you still have money to burn, upgrade you wheels to 17x11 on all four corners and run 315 35R17's on all four corners. They do fit, and they fit better in the front than the rear.

One last thing. While you are in there, check out your brakes and make sure that the pads and roters are in good shape, and of good quality. Hawk makes some great pads, and I perfer the brembo blank rotors. I've never warped a set, and the only time I've had fad was at Road America after repeated 150 - 35mph brake zones. I doubt you'll encounter this type of extreme braking on the street. Also, replace the brake fluid with a high quality fluid. I prefer Super Blue or Motul myself. Sam carries Castrol I think.

In summary: Call Sam Strano, he'll give you even more info, and he has all the parts you need. However, if you'd like more info, feel free to email me.
Old 09-03-2008, 09:37 PM
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^^^^ beat me to it!
Old 09-03-2008, 10:51 PM
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Nice summary!
Old 09-03-2008, 10:59 PM
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that should be a sticky! lol
Old 09-03-2008, 11:24 PM
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Yeah dude, thanks! I will be honest, I didnt read all of it, but that is the #1 on my list of **** to do when I get to work tomorrow. And yes 1,-3. You are correct, that is my goal.

Any idea, what an overall suspension up-grade like this would run me? (ball park est.)
Old 09-04-2008, 07:38 AM
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Oh, I forgot one other part: Torque Arm. Upgrade to a good adjustable torque arm. I am using a BMR torque arm which I purchased back in 2000.

They usually come with a poly mount, which btw, is a pain to install unless you have small hands. I actually had my wife put mine in. With the torque arm, it's usually a good idea to replace the trans mount. Since the torque arm bolts to the trans, the trans mount acts as a suspension bushing. I am using an energy suspension bushing. Some folks complain about bad vibration with these bushings, I have not had this issue because I adjusted my torque arm to get the proper pinion angle, therefore, no vibration issues at all.

I'll PM you a cost estimate for all these parts. I don't think I am allowed to post it.
Old 09-04-2008, 08:57 AM
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Originally Posted by PMCSPIDER
So yeah,

I will admit it, I am fairly new too LS1 "performance" know-how...at least compared to my brother SHINER. But, I am ready to learn and spend a little money every month or so to get my newly paid-off '01 WS6 fixed up to where I want it.

Now, I dont plan to cam it out, at least not while it is used as an every-day driver. BUt I would like to pretty much up-grade all the rest if I can.

The main thing I want to do with in the next few months, is drop the rear-end an 1" or so, and replace the overall front and rear suspension components that are now 100K miles old, with not necassarily the "latest & greatest", but with good, solid, after-market suspension components that will give me a tighter and just overall better ride..especially on turns and operating at high speeds.

My question to the forum is this:

Where do I start? What are the most common and significant components that can be switched out (specifically in the front) for not a boat load of cash, that would give me the biggest improvement in drive quality and performance?

I figured, new aftermarket springs in the back, and of course new shocks and struts all around would be a good start, but my suspension expertise is limited to off-road 4x4 type stuff.

Thanks in advance for any pointers.
Hello, we offer all of the parts that you will need to upgrade your suspension. I will post you a link to our site. If you have any questions please give us a call. Our tech dept is available mon-fri till 6pm est.

http://www.bmrfabrication.com/index.htm
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Last edited by BMR Tech2; 12-09-2008 at 09:26 AM.
Old 09-04-2008, 11:25 AM
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I've made a list of the major components in an F-Body Suspension and the price to upgrade/replace these components. This list can be found on my website: http://mlsmotorracing.com/ in the R&D section.




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