iMuf

I have been looking on here and haven't really seen anything in particular that has answered my questions/. I was wondering how the LS4's transmission comes out. I almost have enough money for a TEP transmission so I'm looking at doing the swap before to long. Does the engine have to be pulled, and if it doesn't have to be pulled do you have to pull apart any of the front suspension? I'm just trying to gauge if this is something I can do or if I need to have a transmission shop put it in for me. I rebuilt the transmission in my old car and it wasn't to bad, however it was a rear wheel drive, so the exhaust was really about the only thing that needed to come out. I love to do all the work on my car as I love that nice warm feeling when you do it and it works right. However if it is gonna be a pain and not worth the busted knuckles then I will just keep saving to have someone else do it. By chance has anyone had a transmission shop replace a trans before, if so about what did it run?

99slpws6

Their not to bad to pull out. Ive done quit a few of these before. Support mount to hold the engine in place. Drop the engine craddle you can leave all your suspension still hooked up, just zip tie the calipers up so you dont have to re bleed the brakes. Then drop the transmission out of the bottom. This is just a quick summary to give you an idea.

08 pimpala ss

I got a quote from Speedys transmissions in West palm they said 300 to pull and re-install

iMuf

Thanks guys, I appreciate it. I'll have to think about it. It doesn't sound like it will be to bad to do myself, but if I can find a place that can do it for $300, I may go that route. I was thinking labor on something like that was going to be like a grand or more

lVloses

iTrader: (1)

Cost me $800 + fluid to get my TEP installed. Took them a day to do it too so there was no downtime really.

iMuf

If I gt prices like that then I will probably end up doing it myself. I'm pretty confident in my abilities that I can do it. But being that it is my DD I can't really have much downtime. With the TEP trans, that's all you need right? you don't need any kind of computer tuning or anything like that for the car to accept the new trans right?

x11 nut

iTrader: (3)

I opted to do it myself - its a fair bit of work but I got a method that helps. There's some pics on my thread, page 2 post #38; https://ls1tech.com/forums/ls4-perfo...rbo-gxp-2.html

Have a look and make the determination what works best for you. It took me a weekend but a third of the time I was screwing with turbo plumbing. If you plan to do it your self, I'll post a write up on the steps to save yourself a lot of aggravation. No specialty tools needed really, save a torque wrench and long socket extension.

x11 nut

iTrader: (3)

Ok, so this is basically a go-by for anyone that has mechanical abilities and has experience turning a wrench. The short version is supporting the engine across the struts while you remove the engine cradle and trans from underneath. By only removing the drivers side ball joint nut and swinging the cradle out of the way, it is a whole lot easier to reinstall and should preserve the alignment provided you use the alignment hole on the cradle to body when reinstalling.


What you need:

Engine support brace – Harbor freight sells, or make one
High lift jack (two jacks preferred)
Trans jack
Jack stands
Hand tools
Socket set
Wrenches with ratcheting ends
Several socket extensions or a really long one (to remove rear trans bolt)
Torque wrench
Pry bar
Large flat head screw driver
Dental tool
WD-40 or rust penetrate spray
Drain pan


To start, make sure you’ve got you tools and parts ready then disconnect the battery – a must since the starter has to come off.
Remove air box & MAF tube, crossover exhaust pipe, wiring harness attached to trans (check two connectors in rear), starter and tuck harness out of the way.
Disconnect shifter cable and tuck out of the way.
Support the engine with brace and chains, then remove all but one of the top transmission to engine bolts.

Lift the car and set on stands, with stands centered on each side of the engine cradle, then drain trans – if you don’t it will pour out the axle holes later.
Remove: wheels, front fender & lower valance.
Remove: sway bar end links from both sides.
Remove all 6 bolts from bottom of engine & trans mounts (from under cradle).
Using dental tool, disconnect transmission lines tuck out of the way.
Remove plastic cover on bottom of trans to expose torque converter.
Use large flat head screw driver to slowly pry teeth of fly wheel against trans housing to rotate torque converter and remove 3 bolts. Screw driver can also leverage flywheel to break converter bolts free.
Once all bolts are removed, push torque converter towards trans – it’ll move about an inch.


Disconnect rear O2 wire & remove exhaust down pipe and set out of the way.
Remove the two nuts & bolts for the power steering rack and gently pry rack up a ¼” or so to loosen - it'll slide out later when cradle is lowered.

Remove the four bolts for the transmission output housing to mount bracket (passenger side).
Using a long extension from the passenger side, remove the rear engine to transmission bolt – you can feel for the bolt thru the exhaust tunnel but will only be able to get a socket on it from passenger side.
Remove only the driver’s side ball joint nut – tap bottom of spindle with hammer and it will release to get nut off.

Raise car off stands and move stands to body mount position between rear cradle mount and outer edge of car & keep jack under cradle.
Remove 4 cradle bolts and slowly lower cradle, when the cradle does not want to lower with jack, it will be because axles and steering rack need to release.
Use pry bar to remove CV axles from trans side only, and raise steering rack out of cradle bracket.
Once axles are free and cradle will lower to ground, remove jack and swing cradle to passenger side so it is out of the way.

Place trans jack under transmission and strap trans to jack.
Once trans is supported, remove last trans to engine bolt.
Pry trans away from motor and lower.

Trans is out – now do the reverse! One note on reinstalling the cradle, there is an alignment hole on either of the rear mount locations –use a large punch or screw driver to align it before tightening cradle bolts.

UseAsDirected

My install was $800 + fluid as well. $300 would have me leery...

Sint3k

What points on the LS4 do you mount the engine support to ? I'm assuming on the forward side you do it by the dogbone but what about the back ? Hook onto the alternator bracket ?


Thnks

Sint3k

Anyone know a good place to support the engine at using a 2x4 our engine support fixture? Not sure of the safest points to secure the engine support to,I don't want to break anything

dezldave961

I've used a variety of brace types on my 3800 tranny drops on these cars, from the manufactured steel version, to home-brew wooden ones...





EDIT: The yellow strap is holding the steering rack, to make sure it doesn't come disconnected from the steering column joint while hanging. Also, it helps ensure the cradle doesn't pull it down. 1st pic didn't have strap installed yet.

With experience, it takes only a few hours in each direction, but I'd set aside a full weekend for a first run, with assistance for more hands/eyes/safety.