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2007 Pontiac Grand Prix GXP

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Old 02-15-2014, 03:14 PM
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Default 2007 Pontiac Grand Prix GXP

I have an 07 Pontiac Grand Prix GXP 5.3 L V8 LS4 engine. I'll start by saying that I am not auto savvy. I have a family history of mechanics but personally I haven't put the time into it until now. I leased the car and am still making payments. No warranty or anything. I haven't actually enjoyed driving until I owned this car. This car was amazing at first. I got it with 100k on it. I have put about 40k on it in 2 years. I would love to drive this car for years to come. I would like to put money into the car but I don't have thousands laying around. I would like to have a goal or something to save up for though. That being said, I have multiple problems with my car at the moment. It has been a major headache. I would like as much advice as possible. I was instructed to come to this site because it would give me much more insight than any other forum on this specific vehicle. I just wanted to get an introduction and ask a couple questions before I go on this huge rant of what I want fixed, questions, how to's, asking opinions, ect. Needless to say I have a lot to ask. How should I go about this? Make one thread or multiple? I'm in the Tampa/ St. Pete area. Thank you guys
Old 02-15-2014, 03:46 PM
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Hey, yeah lot of reading and help too. There is also Gmls4.com dedicated to the LS4 platform. For your goals I would wait and get the car running properly first then plan ahead. As for the saving for part, start a bottle for a transmission, it is a given.
How to go about things: possibly list any mods and any problems you have now and lets see if there is a plan to get it up to speed stock first then we`ll venture from that.
Old 02-15-2014, 05:01 PM
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Sweet, another Florida member! Just post in this thread what's wrong and those in the know will reply...

Far as mods - what's your goal, both performance and $$ wise ??
Old 02-16-2014, 06:13 PM
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I'll start this off by saying that the car worked great for a month or so before the transmission started slipping. I took it to the dealership's specific mechanic twice. Both times he denied the transmission slipping. Then I took it to another of their mechanics which he said that it was slipping bad. He "rebuilt" the transmission but it still slipped. I gave up with the dealership a long time ago. Car still runs, I just let off the gas when it comes up to a shifting point. Or I use the pedal shifters. After the whole transmission ordeal and it continuing to slip, I took it to a transmission shop. They said that there wasn't anything wrong with the transmission. Fluid looked good, but I was missing an engine mount. I thought that was odd. Now the check engine light was on. Battery just crapped out on me on the interstate. I had enough gas to get home but the car wasn't registering it. I installed the new battery ( which is how I got intrigued on working on this car) I had to take the fuse box off just to get the old one out. Put some gas in the car and boom it starts up. Now it's like when I first start the car after it sitting for a few hours, it almost dies but then I slowly creep on the gas and boom it catches. It's weird. I got the engine codes, P0443, p0030, p0036. I also get this clicking sound when I turn. Multiple shops have checked my cv axles and nothing is wrong with them.

So basis down, here are my questions.

I need to replace my transmission. That's a definite given. Any suggestions? I found an 06 grand prix gxp with 55k at a local salvage yard. Good engine and tranny. Any ideas on getting the entire car from the salvage yard? I could use other misc parts from the car other than the tranny and engine. And should I get a transmission cooler? I've heard a ton of crap about these transmissions.

Check engine light? I was told it could be my evap purge solenoid. Is that a part that I can replace myself? And how can I confirm that it is the problem? The sputtering is bad now, I feel like it's going to just die soon...I was also told to check the fuse box. Any diagram on what fuses/relays I should have? Maybe I'm missing one

Engine mounts? Any diagram on that? Or a way I can check myself? How many should I have? And would I need a cherry picker to install it if it comes down to me needing one?

Cv Axles? Clicking sound when I turn. Definitely sounds like cv axles to me. Or is it because I'm missing an engine mount?

And my goal at the moment is to fix the car first then attempt to upgrade as much as possible. I love the comfortability this car has. But I'm not made of money. I am able to throw a couple hundred to the side here and there though. I currently have no mods on the car.

Sorry for the extremely long reply, I just needed to get every single problem out there. Much respect to everyone. I am anticipating your replies, will be checking site everyday.

Last edited by Brian727; 02-16-2014 at 06:19 PM.
Old 02-16-2014, 06:19 PM
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I'm always a "if you're going to do it, do it right" kinda guy. That being said, TEP trans, new cv axles from autozone (like $89 a piece) and a good ECM/TCM tune.

Once my trans goes, and I'm sure it will after I spray this summer, I'm getting a TEP.
Old 02-16-2014, 09:36 PM
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Sounds like fun, not!

Don't use a junkyard trans - It'll have the same faults and potentially more problems. I got a low mile Serta trans out of a wrecked GXP and it was crap! FYI, Serta is GM's "premium" reman units. You need a quality rebuild from someone that knows what they're doing. It would be cool if the yard would sell you the whole car thoo - haven't found one in FL that will sell a whole car once its in for scrap...

Your codes have to do with the O2 sensors, I'm guessing with 140k they probably haven't been changed. I'd start there - local parts store will have them and an O2 socket, although the O2 sensor socket is much cheaper at Harbor Freight Tools.

Far as engine mounts - if you were missing one, you'd definitely know it. The only one that could be missing and still drive without craziness would be the upper dog bone mount. It is on the driver side going from radiator support to a bracket next to the throttle body. I'd guess whomever said that is use to most other W-body cars having 2 dog bone mounts, where the LS4s only have one.

Oh, if you order parts online from Advance Auto they typically have a deal where you get 15% off and then they send you a $25 or $50 off coupon for your next purchase. So, if you buy O2 sensors online you can pay less and pick up in the local store and then you'll have a discount later for CV axles when you get a trans... just a thought.

Let us know how you make out.

Cheers,
Robert
Old 02-17-2014, 07:27 AM
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Originally Posted by Brian727
I'll start this off by saying that the car worked great for a month or so before the transmission started slipping. I took it to the dealership's specific mechanic twice. Both times he denied the transmission slipping. Then I took it to another of their mechanics which he said that it was slipping bad. He "rebuilt" the transmission but it still slipped. I gave up with the dealership a long time ago. Car still runs, I just let off the gas when it comes up to a shifting point. Or I use the pedal shifters. After the whole transmission ordeal and it continuing to slip, I took it to a transmission shop. They said that there wasn't anything wrong with the transmission. Fluid looked good, but I was missing an engine mount. I thought that was odd. Now the check engine light was on. Battery just crapped out on me on the interstate. I had enough gas to get home but the car wasn't registering it. I installed the new battery ( which is how I got intrigued on working on this car) I had to take the fuse box off just to get the old one out. Put some gas in the car and boom it starts up. Now it's like when I first start the car after it sitting for a few hours, it almost dies but then I slowly creep on the gas and boom it catches. It's weird. I got the engine codes, P0443, p0030, p0036.For all these codes check your IP fuse box as there are fuses for both these in there.. The canister is a common problem, but the O2 sensors for both of them to show the heated side of the sensor at once is rare... my guess is the fuse is blown. I also get this clicking sound when I turn. Multiple shops have checked my cv axles and nothing is wrong with them.

So basis down, here are my questions.

I need to replace my transmission. That's a definite given. Any suggestions?
A TEP build is what you want , but there is shipping and a wait time well worth it though! I found an 06 grand prix gxp with 55k at a local salvage yard. Good engine and tranny. Any ideas on getting the entire car from the salvage yard? This may be a good idea...( the trans and some other stuff will be the same but computers, certain engine parts and some sensors are different between the 05-06 and the 07+ so you have to be selective on what you can use) you would have to approach them and see. If you could get it cheap either sent the trans directly to TEP or install it and send your original, then sell the other once you have your rebuilt TEP.I could use other misc parts from the car other than the tranny and engine. And should I get a transmission cooler?YES! I've heard a ton of crap about these transmissions.

Check engine light? I was told it could be my evap purge solenoid.This is an easy part to change and not so expensive Is that a part that I can replace myself?Yes, in less than half an hour. And how can I confirm that it is the problem?Very common problem on these cars (but check the fuse first, in the IP fuse box) The sputtering is bad now, I feel like it's going to just die soon...I was also told to check the fuse box. Any diagram on what fuses/relays I should have? Maybe I'm missing oneGo here and download your manual... https://assets.gm.com/manuals/pontia...rix_owners.pdf

Engine mounts? Any diagram on that? Or a way I can check myself?YES, very easy with a floor jack and stands and a flashlight,there are 5 in total, the transmission mount located drivers side wheel well ( visual inspect for cracks and/or separation) simply remove the wheel and look, you can place the jack under the trans and lift the trans a little to see if there is any speration. Front right side bottom of engine there is a large hydraulic mount, it is hard to see as there is a shield covering it,again place your jack under that corner of the engine and lift the engine a little (1-2") and look with your flashlight. Right side rear bottom same thing do do here jus move your jack to the back corner of the engine for the inspection of it. Front top (upper) torque arm mount is the one connecting your engine to the radiator saddle, it is a 2 piece mount, the outer can show signs of tearing but most of the time it looks ok but just falls out, same goes for the inner side of this mount. Here is a link to what they look like: http://www.gmls4.com/index.php/topic,2436.0.html How many should I have?5 intotal And would I need a cherry picker to install it if it comes down to me needing one?No , common hand tools and your floor jack/stands

Cv Axles? Clicking sound when I turn. Definitely sounds like cv axles to me. Or is it because I'm missing an engine mount?Could be both but most likely the joint and or wheel bearing

And my goal at the moment is to fix the car first then attempt to upgrade as much as possible. I love the comfortability this car has. But I'm not made of money. I am able to throw a couple hundred to the side here and there though. I currently have no mods on the car.

Sorry for the extremely long reply, I just needed to get every single problem out there. Much respect to everyone. I am anticipating your replies, will be checking site everyday.
So there you have my 2 cents, if you need more just ask

Last edited by Ill_Born_ss; 02-17-2014 at 07:55 AM.
Old 02-17-2014, 10:57 AM
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UPDATE!!!

Sputtering is bad. It almost died on me today. Had to put it into manual and baby the gas to keep it going. Once it got up and running it was fine. Checked fuses, under the hood fuse box, emissions 1 was blown. Changed fuse. Still getting error codes 30, 36, 53, 54, 443. All the ip fuses are in and fine. Not sure what to replace here. Either evap purge solenoid or my o2 sensors. What should I do? I'm about to spend over $100 just to get a diagnostics test done on it to pinpoint the problem. Please help! Or point me to any mechanics in my area that would do this for cheaper.
Old 02-17-2014, 11:16 AM
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That should be fuse for heated O2's.. I can check diagrams tonight, but I'd start there.
Old 02-17-2014, 12:55 PM
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Yes your emission 1 fuse powers all three, (evap canister purge solenoid, heated O2-1 and heated O2-2) most likely cause is the solenoid is shorted. Here is a good how to:
http://www.gmls4.com/index.php/topic,1011.0.html and of course replace the fuse again.
Old 02-17-2014, 01:35 PM
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Is this what I need? I'll do the install.http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...purge+solenoid

I'm sitting at home pulling my hair out, thinking of what I can do to keep this car running. There's a gm certified mechanic with the factory computer reader that will run a diagnostics test for $75. I just don't want to replace this evap purge solenoid then there be another problem. If this is just the evap, I'll buy the part and figure out how to install. But I cant find anything online about my specific car.

Last edited by Brian727; 02-17-2014 at 01:48 PM.
Old 02-17-2014, 01:52 PM
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NO, wrong part shown not recommended find a dealer or an AC delco parts counter and use the part numbers in the how to, that are listed at the first part of the post.
Old 02-17-2014, 02:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Brian727
Is this what I need? I'll do the install.http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...purge+solenoid

I'm sitting at home pulling my hair out, thinking of what I can do to keep this car running. There's a gm certified mechanic with the factory computer reader that will run a diagnostics test for $75. I just don't want to replace this evap purge solenoid then there be another problem.Simply go out lay under the drivers side rear and reach up and disconnect the wiring connector as in the HOW TO I posted then replace the fuse and start the car... if the fuse does not blow again then the canister is your problem, order and replace. If this is just the evap, I'll buy the part and figure out how to install.All the details are in the HOW TO But I cant find anything online about my specific car.What exact details are you looking for?
A great place to order parts from www.rockauto.com,
Old 02-17-2014, 02:27 PM
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http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-GM-15208...-/360856631895

That looks like the part shown in the how to

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...h&fromType=oem

The real question! Is this for sure my problem or should I just get the diagnostics run on it? I'll get part and install right now. Or I'll get it checked out right now.
Old 02-17-2014, 02:42 PM
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Your O2 sensors went bad and possibly shorted your evap solenoid - you'll need 2 O2 sensors for sure. The evap solenoid code could have set when the fuse blew or it's bad as well. I wouldn't spend $75 to get told the same thing.
Old 02-17-2014, 03:45 PM
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Ok. So I should get 2 o2 sensors and the evap purge solenoid? Then just replace all and light shouldn't come on. Any "how to" on the o2 sensors? Are they difficult to replace?
Old 02-19-2014, 04:48 PM
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Let me ask you this: Your car is running like crap you checked the fuses and replaced the emissions 1 fuse, DID it blow again or is it still good?
Old 02-19-2014, 06:19 PM
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Yeah it blew again. Why is that? And any part numbers on the o2 sensors?
Old 02-20-2014, 01:03 PM
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Ok, I am having trouble posting pics/diagrams today, in a nutshell your car has all three powered by the emmission1 fuse and then downstream the evap has a separate fuse and only on some models. So taking this into consideration if one O2 sensor heated side shorts it takes out both heated sensors as in pops the fuse for all three components. Now lets assume only one of them is bad... then one would test each and replace that one but considering the mileage, do yourself a favor and just change both.
For your car specific:
AC DELCO # 2133206 for the front #1 position pre cat
AC DELCO # 213152 for the aft #3 postion post cat

if/when the diagrams of locations for you to see will follow when the net lets me
Old 02-20-2014, 03:42 PM
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I cant find these parts for the life of me. Autozone, advance auto, napa, none of them have it. Yeah, no local stores have this in stock. I can find the first one online but not the second. Is there a different part number for me to search for? Can I use the bosch, delphi, or denso oxygen sensor?

I found this on the gm parts locator. part #12580466 stated as the correct part...

Last edited by Brian727; 02-20-2014 at 07:00 PM.


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