Sgt. Spuds

iTrader: (1)

So the cars been a wip for so long, its not funny. I've had it out put putting around town for a total of a few hundred miles this year with a bad opti, and havn't really gotten to stomp on it 2 much, with the cam specs in sig, what would you guys expect as far as performance and characteristics??

ZONES89RS

iTrader: (25)

With a dyno tune on that is should run very bad ***, what do you want out of the car?

LM97Z

iTrader: (4)

Thats some steep dur., are you running any gears? How is the idle quality? I'd say easy mid. 12s with stickies. Are you still running the stock bottom end, that cams going too pull strong too 6500 with that dur., don't know if i would want to pull the stock bottom end that high.

Sgt. Spuds

iTrader: (1)

Stock bottom end, no gears yet, theres a sound clip in my sig... How would it handle n20?

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

Far too much duration for a stock shortblock. Most cam recommended rpm ranges are assuming a gen 1 but the LT1 intake shifts the rpm range several hundred rpms higher. Depending on the heads would not surprise me if that thing did not peak till 6800 and you should rev beyond peak to make best use of average power. Most of us agree it is wise to keep the stock shortblock limited to about 6500.

I am sure Lunati makes some nice cams but you should have choosen about 10 degrees less duration.

Can we assume the listed lift is with 1.5s but you are using 1.6s??

ZONES89RS

iTrader: (25)

Should pull to 6500 with that setup. It will like the N2O, but it will not gain as much as a cam with 112 LSA or better but it will be fine, the bottom end will be ok as long as you stay below 6500 and dont stay there for long periods of time.

LM97Z

iTrader: (4)

That cam will definitly respond well to gears, it'll be very strong in the mid range also, & still have plenty of top end, but your going to be leaving ALOT on the table if you shift below 6500 too play it safe, even at 6500 you'll still be looseing, that cam will like 7K shifts with a decent set of heads, which i'll assume you have, if you run nitrous, be VERY careful, you'll rpm that sucker quick, very quick. I can't hear the sound clip (don't have speakers), but i'm sure it sounds great, i ran a cam close to that in my BB 451 Duster, it pulled high 10s @ 121+ on stock crap iron heads that didn't flow **** lol, & it was a flat tappet, not a roller, if you haven't alreally, you'll see how well it'll pull in the mid range, & how fast it'll rpm.

Sgt. Spuds

iTrader: (1)

I could shift at 6500 on the stock short block correct? I wont be holding it there long and a new short block is in the plans for next winter, what ci should I go with?

slomarao

iTrader: (6)

383 or bigger. Bigger is better

LM97Z

iTrader: (4)

At bare minimum 383, but i would shoot for 400+ cubes.

ZONES89RS

iTrader: (25)

396 stroker kit is what would be just right i think.

ScreaminRedZ

iTrader: (3)

Damn, that's alot of duration. What made you choose that cam?

It definitely sounds freakin mean! That's gonna scare alot of people out of racing at the stoplights, lol. I can tell you that gears are a must. My old cam-only LT1 peaked at 6300 rpm and wasn't nearly as fast as my rwhp showed it should be. The whole combo definitely has to work together or it won't be at full potential.

Sgt. Spuds

iTrader: (1)

I got the zero mile short block, touched up heads, valve train, cam, all assembled, never ran, for 700 bucks.... thats why lol... I hydro locked my stocker in a bad rain storm and needed a motor...