rebuilt

My cousin and were assembling my short block last night and ran into an issue. I had Mildon Splayed 4 bolt caps installed and am using arp studs. When I went to bolt on the windage tray it contacts the rods. When we adjusted the nuts on the studs there wasn't enough thread on the top nut. Would it hurt to leave the thing off? The motor may see a supercharger in the future and is built with that in mind. I also have been unable to locat a new oilpump gasket can I just rtv it or will this cause me heartache down the road? Thanks.

k0261886

iTrader: (5)

You can't leave the windage tray off. That is what keeps oil by the pump when you are taking off hard.

rebuilt

I was under the impression that it was there to keep oil from splashing up on to the crank. how do I make it fit with the arp studs? The bolts that cam with the caps have no provision for the tray so I have to use these studs

sweet-94z28

iTrader: (30)

Get a Fel-Pro oil pan gasket. You need the windage tray. I have heard of issues with them and strokers. I dont know if you are building a 383, but I would definitely try to modify the tray so it clears.

Paul Bell

iTrader: (9)

Yup, don't close it up without a windage tray. You'll need to call Milodon and/or ARP to figure out what the correct bolts are.

Now, what oil pump gasket are you talking about?

95maroz28

iTrader: (21)

dont believe theres a gasket between the oil pump?

Paul Bell

iTrader: (9)

That's correct, there's no gasket between the oil pump and the main cap.

Summit lists just one and it's copper. With all the vibration and heat cycles it would see, it would slowly crush and you'd have a loose oil pump bolt.

sweet-94z28

iTrader: (30)

This might be what you have to do to make the windage tray work. http://www.caspeed.com/gallery8/imag...-tray1-320.jpg

rebuilt

Nope its not a stroker just a 355 with H beam rods. Worst case I guess I'll Cut a hole in it as shown. I thought there was a gasket between the pump and the main cap. Wouldn't it loos oil pressure without one?

fergymoto

iTrader: (129)

Like said be before there is NOT a gasket between the oil pump and the main cap.

Jditlfm

iTrader: (26)

No gasket I have ever seen in the three engines i have assembled.

BALLSS

1. you need a windage tray
2. miloden makes extended bearing cap bolts...or just use the 3 stock ones.
3. IMHO I would not cut up the windage tray as shown
4. just use a 1/8" washer under windage tray between stud nut and tray. this will lift it high enough to clear (see pic).
5. rotate engine by hand with ear to pan and listen for any clearance issues. On a strocker the #2 rod bolt 'can" hit bottom of oil pan (383). You can pound out inside of pan "slightly" where it contacts. You will see a witness mark on the pan where it contacts "IF" it does at all. After pan clearance put a dab of white marker on the offending rod bolt and check again by rotateing motor. If it does not leave any marker on pan...you are cool.

RallyBoy

iTrader: (1)

How close should the windage tray be to the crank? In the picture, the tray looks to be too far from the crank.

rebuilt

Called Arp And they said I would have to use milodon studs. Thanks fr the input guys hope th milodon stud get this fixed.

Ralls

iTrader: (32)

When I was putting my 383 together, I had to clearance the hell out of my windage tray. There were cuts all in it to clear the rods and crank. I have longer ARP studs too. I also had to clearance my oil pan because the rods were hitting the bottom of it.
Because I had the tray as high up on the studs as possible, it wasn't level with the oil pump surface where it also bolts to. At that point I realized it wasn't going to fit. I asked some engine builders and they said it would be ok to NOT use the windage tray. I went with their advice and now I'm worrying there will be a problem.
Will a moroso or canton oil pan with their windage tray clear a 383 no problem?

FlamingChicken

iTrader: (2)

i had to do minor clearing with the canton pan. more for the splayed mains than the crank or rods though.