Rod Bolts and Head Bolts
#1
Rod Bolts and Head Bolts
These good?
Rod Bolts
http://www.jegs.com/i/ARP/070/134-6003/10002/-1
Head Bolts
http://www.jegs.com/i/ARP/070/134-3601/10002/-1
Rod Bolts
http://www.jegs.com/i/ARP/070/134-6003/10002/-1
Head Bolts
http://www.jegs.com/i/ARP/070/134-3601/10002/-1
#2
For PM (powdered metal) LT1 rods (stock on all 95-97 and some 94s, but no 93s or half 94s), use ARP specific 134-6005 rod bolts, even though people can and do use the 134-6003 that you posted. If you have GM pink rods (used in all 93s and most of the 94s) then use teh 134-6003 bolts you posted.
The way you can tell if you have pink rods or PM rods is that the pink rods have a flattened 'weight' area on the top of the rod cap. If the top of the rod caps are smooth with no machined flat rectangular weight than you have PM rods.
The head bolts you posted are the correct ones for a LT1. You can also get them in a half-stainless half-black oxide kit that has all the external block bolts in stainless.
The way you can tell if you have pink rods or PM rods is that the pink rods have a flattened 'weight' area on the top of the rod cap. If the top of the rod caps are smooth with no machined flat rectangular weight than you have PM rods.
The head bolts you posted are the correct ones for a LT1. You can also get them in a half-stainless half-black oxide kit that has all the external block bolts in stainless.
#4
11 Second Club
iTrader: (17)
For PM (powdered metal) The way you can tell if you have pink rods or PM rods is that the pink rods have a flattened 'weight' area on the top of the rod cap. If the top of the rod caps are smooth with no machined flat rectangular weight than you have PM rods.
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So this means I have the pink rods? Wich are much stronger if I remember correcty? !!!!!
#5
Yeah the powdered metal ones were supposed to be better but seems like everyone I know that races these in stock classes says the only thing they ever wore out besides optis was rod caps
#6
Powedered metal rods are by far stronger than Pink rods. They will actually deform vs breaking at thier limit, which is HIGHER than the pink rods.
And, yes, I have run itno that situation as well, so it is first hand experience.
And, yes, I have run itno that situation as well, so it is first hand experience.
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#10
If it is an ARP bolt, and comes in an ARP package and is installed by the machinist and fails he knows he needs to bring the issue up with ARP. For him to blame an application specific part means you should never use the guy as your machinist in the first place.
ARP came out with the 6005 rod bolts so that they didn't have the problem of 'eating' at the cap-side of a PM rod the way the 6003 bolts tend to do after repeated disassembly/assembly.
#11
And a lot of times a machinist will not know about a LT1 specific application part unless it is brought to thier attention.
If it is an ARP bolt, and comes in an ARP package and is installed by the machinist and fails he knows he needs to bring the issue up with ARP. For him to blame an application specific part means you should never use the guy as your machinist in the first place.
ARP came out with the 6005 rod bolts so that they didn't have the problem of 'eating' at the cap-side of a PM rod the way the 6003 bolts tend to do after repeated disassembly/assembly.
If it is an ARP bolt, and comes in an ARP package and is installed by the machinist and fails he knows he needs to bring the issue up with ARP. For him to blame an application specific part means you should never use the guy as your machinist in the first place.
ARP came out with the 6005 rod bolts so that they didn't have the problem of 'eating' at the cap-side of a PM rod the way the 6003 bolts tend to do after repeated disassembly/assembly.
They are just different enough from an SBC to get you in trouble, and it has happened to many people. The famous 10.0:1CR or less LT1 rebuild is a great example.
#13