safe to spray 383 stroker with cast crank?
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Staging Lane
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safe to spray 383 stroker with cast crank?
hi so i was looking to spray my 383 lt1 with a 100-125 shot of nitrous but i have people telling me its a bad idea because of my crankshaft being cast steel.... im running forged EAGLE FSI rods, forged pistons, and obviously cast steel crank.. my compression is 11 to 1 and i need help with deciding.. should i change my redline so it would be safer ? thanks
#2
well in the words of Dirty Harry......."you feeling lucky ...."
Not "all" Eagle cast cranks will fail but a significant #, compared to other cast crank brands, has....including mine and it was a NA motor.
So....you feeling lucky?
because if you do experience crank failure the carnage will be significant and likely take the block and everything in it out
Not "all" Eagle cast cranks will fail but a significant #, compared to other cast crank brands, has....including mine and it was a NA motor.
So....you feeling lucky?
because if you do experience crank failure the carnage will be significant and likely take the block and everything in it out
#3
Staging Lane
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well in the words of Dirty Harry......."you feeling lucky ...."
Not "all" Eagle cast cranks will fail but a significant #, compared to other cast crank brands, has....including mine and it was a NA motor.
So....you feeling lucky?
because if you do experience crank failure the carnage will be significant and likely take the block and everything in it out
Not "all" Eagle cast cranks will fail but a significant #, compared to other cast crank brands, has....including mine and it was a NA motor.
So....you feeling lucky?
because if you do experience crank failure the carnage will be significant and likely take the block and everything in it out
its not an eagle crank. i was told by my machine shop the crank will handle 600hp . also the rotating assembly i chose just came out not to long ago.. atleast thats what i was told.
#4
Not every cast crank has issues but there have been so many reports of failure that the "risk" to it happening on a power adder motor is there and higher than a NA motor. You may be fine but having already gone through a cast crank failure that took out the block...I defer to forged
If the motor makes 400 RWHP that's about 460 at the crank...add 125 shot you get VERY close to 600 crank HP....so if your machine shop is right on "it's good for 600 hp"....that is taking that cranks abilities right to the line on every WOT NOS hit at 6k+ rpms
#5
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what brand is the crank?
Not every cast crank has issues but there have been so many reports of failure that the "risk" to it happening on a power adder motor is there and higher than a NA motor. You may be fine but having already gone through a cast crank failure that took out the block...I defer to forged
If the motor makes 400 RWHP that's about 460 at the crank...add 125 shot you get VERY close to 600 crank HP....so if your machine shop is right on "it's good for 600 hp"....that is taking that cranks abilities right to the line on every WOT NOS hit at 6k+ rpms
Not every cast crank has issues but there have been so many reports of failure that the "risk" to it happening on a power adder motor is there and higher than a NA motor. You may be fine but having already gone through a cast crank failure that took out the block...I defer to forged
If the motor makes 400 RWHP that's about 460 at the crank...add 125 shot you get VERY close to 600 crank HP....so if your machine shop is right on "it's good for 600 hp"....that is taking that cranks abilities right to the line on every WOT NOS hit at 6k+ rpms
i told my machine shop i wanna go with a forged crank instead.. so then that would put me at fully forged and i should be fine. i dont feel like playing the guessing game with my motor. im running icon pistons btw too.. so there decent but everything should be good to go right ?
also im gonna go with the forged eagle crank because i guess there forged crank vs there cast crank are worlds apart lol
#6
a forged crank would be better if you are going to spray. IDK anything about icon pistons. Not saying they are bad, I just don't know anything about that brand
I would, and did, go 4 bolt mains on my build though.
with NOS you want your fuel system and tune for it to be spot on.
I would, and did, go 4 bolt mains on my build though.
with NOS you want your fuel system and tune for it to be spot on.
#7
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a forged crank would be better if you are going to spray. IDK anything about icon pistons. Not saying they are bad, I just don't know anything about that brand
I would, and did, go 4 bolt mains on my build though.
with NOS you want your fuel system and tune for it to be spot on.
I would, and did, go 4 bolt mains on my build though.
with NOS you want your fuel system and tune for it to be spot on.
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#8
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A buddies car had a Scat cast crank, stock '93 rods with and a set of TRW pistons, was a budget 383 set up, small cam (CC305), but had two stages, 300 in total. One plate, another in the fender with a nozzle in the cold air. That car lived to tell about it for many years. I wouldn't see it being an issue.
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The other "do it now" if your planning on nitrous is make sure he gaps the rings for nitrous. The rings expand under the increased cylinder pressure and if they butt up together, they lift and break the ring land off the piston, and bye bye shortblock, heads, cam, everything. Also if your getting in there now, add at least ARP main studs, I've heard of factory 2 bolts starting to show flex with stock bolts approaching 600 fwhp. A cast scat crank "might" survive, but a cast stick GM crank is stronger, good choice on going forged for added insurance. If you do 4 bolt splayed main caps and gap the rings right, it should survive whatever you want to throw at it.
#10
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The other "do it now" if your planning on nitrous is make sure he gaps the rings for nitrous. The rings expand under the increased cylinder pressure and if they butt up together, they lift and break the ring land off the piston, and bye bye shortblock, heads, cam, everything. Also if your getting in there now, add at least ARP main studs, I've heard of factory 2 bolts starting to show flex with stock bolts approaching 600 fwhp. A cast scat crank "might" survive, but a cast stick GM crank is stronger, good choice on going forged for added insurance. If you do 4 bolt splayed main caps and gap the rings right, it should survive whatever you want to throw at it.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=AScojLj139A
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=AScojLj139A
what should i have him gap the rings at?
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#12
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From AERA Engine Builders:
Application Top Ring Second Ring Oil Ring Rail
High Performance Street NA Bore x 0.0045" Bore x 0.0040" Min 0.015"
Circle Track, Drag Racing NA Bore x 0.0050" Bore x 0.0060" Min 0.015"
Nitrous up to 25HP/cyl Bore x 0.0060" Bore x 0.0050" Min 0.015"
Nitrous over 25HP/cyl Bore x 0.0070" Bore x 0.0070" Min 0.015"
a clearance of .024" (up to a 200 shot) will have no noticeable effect on NA power.
sorry, the formatting didn't paste properly, but I think you can decipher it.
Application Top Ring Second Ring Oil Ring Rail
High Performance Street NA Bore x 0.0045" Bore x 0.0040" Min 0.015"
Circle Track, Drag Racing NA Bore x 0.0050" Bore x 0.0060" Min 0.015"
Nitrous up to 25HP/cyl Bore x 0.0060" Bore x 0.0050" Min 0.015"
Nitrous over 25HP/cyl Bore x 0.0070" Bore x 0.0070" Min 0.015"
a clearance of .024" (up to a 200 shot) will have no noticeable effect on NA power.
sorry, the formatting didn't paste properly, but I think you can decipher it.
Last edited by bowtienut; 12-13-2017 at 07:24 PM.
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should i be concerned though if i dont get caps ? i thought stock caps would be fine .. id probs be spraying 100-125 shot anyways
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no your right it doesnt lol what i was trying to say was that if my compression was any higher id go with a 4 bolt main but its gonna be 11.1 so im gonna stick with the 2 bolt for now. and yes ill be using studs...