Where to buy forged LT1 shortblock
#1
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Where to buy forged LT1 shortblock
Okay guys i am looking to buy a forged LT1 shortblock and add lloyd elliot heads and cam. then some nitrous.
who sell a good shortblock for a good price?
i have looked at golen engines,and clayton racing.
anyone of these any good?
who sell a good shortblock for a good price?
i have looked at golen engines,and clayton racing.
anyone of these any good?
#3
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In Vegas
I talked to a shop today but they wanted 10k to do my block with forged pistons rods and port the heads with a cam. And a little nitrous.
And I can buy a forged shortblock for 3700 throw on a set of Lloyd Elliot LE2 heads and cam for alot cheaper
I talked to a shop today but they wanted 10k to do my block with forged pistons rods and port the heads with a cam. And a little nitrous.
And I can buy a forged shortblock for 3700 throw on a set of Lloyd Elliot LE2 heads and cam for alot cheaper
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Okay thanks for the help so far guys.
this is going to be the first motor i put together myself. So along with the shortblock what els will i need besides the heads and intake manifold. I know all the other stuff has to come off my existing motor but is there anything els i need?
a COMPLETE list would be awesome.
I am looking at a budget of 6500-7k.
Do you guys think its possible to build a decent motor for that price?
my goals are 400hp on motor and then a nitrous kit.
this is going to be the first motor i put together myself. So along with the shortblock what els will i need besides the heads and intake manifold. I know all the other stuff has to come off my existing motor but is there anything els i need?
a COMPLETE list would be awesome.
I am looking at a budget of 6500-7k.
Do you guys think its possible to build a decent motor for that price?
my goals are 400hp on motor and then a nitrous kit.
#7
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Everything that I have read over the past few years indicates that VRE (victoryracingengines.com) builds some of the best LT1 short-blocks around. Golen seems to be hit or miss, but a BIG MISS in my case. From my experiences alone, I would avoid them at all costs.
You don't mention any current mods or what year vehicle you have, transmission, etc., so you'll need to adjust accordingly. To be honest, 400 crank HP is easily attainable for HALF that cost, but it's all of the supporting modifications that will cost you just as much (if you don't already have them). Assuming you have all the supporting modifications and 7k is your budget for the engine ONLY, you can shoot for 500fwhp.
You don't mention any current mods or what year vehicle you have, transmission, etc., so you'll need to adjust accordingly. To be honest, 400 crank HP is easily attainable for HALF that cost, but it's all of the supporting modifications that will cost you just as much (if you don't already have them). Assuming you have all the supporting modifications and 7k is your budget for the engine ONLY, you can shoot for 500fwhp.
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#8
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my car is a 95 z28
it has longtube headers
full exhaust
performabuilt level 2 with 3800 converter
some suspension mods.
mail order tune
What do you mean supporting mods?
i plan on going with a better fuel pump and bigger injectors as well.
it has longtube headers
full exhaust
performabuilt level 2 with 3800 converter
some suspension mods.
mail order tune
What do you mean supporting mods?
i plan on going with a better fuel pump and bigger injectors as well.
#10
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For 7K you can build a hell of a lot better than 400rwhp. My entire build including a new block/all new internals, ARP everything, new topend, exhaust, stall/shift kit, rear end gears and all the labor isn't anywhere near that amount. If you are forging it do 383, it really doesn't make a whole lot of sense to build a forged 355 these days. Super chevy just had an article where they built a fairly mild 355 and then swapped over the topend/cam to a 383. Compression stayed the same on both motors. The 383 made more power everywhere and IIRC torque was more than the 355 from 2000rpm on up. Also dont get hung up on power too much. I was when I first started my build, but remember dynos are a tuning tool, the track/street is the real test of your car. Hell look at Bob@BruteSpeed's Formula. Its not even making 400 but its running 10.9
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Well thats exactly what i wanted to hear. that 7k will be plenty for a motor build.
My original goal was to get a shop to build me a short block but everyone around here either doesnt want to touch the LT1 or is WAY overpriced.
So like i said i was thinking of just buying a forged 383 short block from one of these companies that deal with LT1s and then going with some Lloyd Elliot heads and a matching cam.
does this sound like a good rout to take or should i be looking at doing somthing different?
My original goal was to get a shop to build me a short block but everyone around here either doesnt want to touch the LT1 or is WAY overpriced.
So like i said i was thinking of just buying a forged 383 short block from one of these companies that deal with LT1s and then going with some Lloyd Elliot heads and a matching cam.
does this sound like a good rout to take or should i be looking at doing somthing different?
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Everything that I have read over the past few years indicates that VRE (victoryracingengines.com) builds some of the best LT1 short-blocks around. Golen seems to be hit or miss, but a BIG MISS in my case. From my experiences alone, I would avoid them at all costs.
You don't mention any current mods or what year vehicle you have, transmission, etc., so you'll need to adjust accordingly. To be honest, 400 crank HP is easily attainable for HALF that cost, but it's all of the supporting modifications that will cost you just as much (if you don't already have them). Assuming you have all the supporting modifications and 7k is your budget for the engine ONLY, you can shoot for 500fwhp.
You don't mention any current mods or what year vehicle you have, transmission, etc., so you'll need to adjust accordingly. To be honest, 400 crank HP is easily attainable for HALF that cost, but it's all of the supporting modifications that will cost you just as much (if you don't already have them). Assuming you have all the supporting modifications and 7k is your budget for the engine ONLY, you can shoot for 500fwhp.
#13
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I would still advise you to find someone to build it local. Find a reputable SBC shop and use them if you can. The shortblock internals are for the most part identical to a SBC, and since you won't be having the local shop do the heads, you should be fine. This way, you have someone local that you can talk to if there are any issues. You don't want to be shipping an engine cross country for warranty issues or problems.
#14
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The only thing you MUST consider when you use a shop that doesn't normally do LT1s is the compression. Make SURE you tell them that the engine is reverse-cooled and that you want a tight quench as such. You do the research and tell them the parts you want to use (once again a significant benefit of finding a local shop).
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Okay guys i look look around some more locally.
do any of you know anywhere in las vegas?
cause everywhere i call they tell me they dont touch LT1s cause there a pain to work on and because of the opti.
and i am talking with chad at golen engines and for 7k i can get a 500hp 383 LT1 longblock.
do any of you guys have any experience with him and/or this motor
do any of you know anywhere in las vegas?
cause everywhere i call they tell me they dont touch LT1s cause there a pain to work on and because of the opti.
and i am talking with chad at golen engines and for 7k i can get a 500hp 383 LT1 longblock.
do any of you guys have any experience with him and/or this motor