Sputtering/stalling at high rpms with brand new Level 4 FLT trans
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Sputtering/stalling at high rpms with brand new Level 4 FLT trans
As title states I'm sputtering or stalling when im WOT. It seems to shift fine driving normal. Here is what's happening: I pull on to the interstate and mash the gas and it shifts from 1st to 2nd and then to 3rd. I guess it has to be when it wants to hit 4th at 6000+ rpm it just sounds like it's hitting the rev limiter or slipping. I just had installed a level 4 FLT trans with a freshly built 3600 vig stall. I waited 150 miles before really getting on to it so I didn't glaze the clutches in the stall. Not sure what's going on. I have no check engine light coming on so not sure. Everything is brand new so not sure. My computer was a mail order tune by Ion Sultan from MadZ28 ro MadTuner. This is my 2nd tune from them actually. He set it up for all my mods and set the rev limiter at 6900 and adjusted for shift firmness. There has to be something going on somewhere causing this. It did this with my last transmission 2 but worst and I thought I just burned 3rd and 4th up but it might not be the case now. Something has to be throwing it off. The only thing I have changed was the TPS for a new one a while back and I installed a B&M trans cooler with all braided lines with 6an fittings. Anyone have any ideas what the hell I should do or check or what may be going on???????????
All mods are in my sig!!!!!!!
All mods are in my sig!!!!!!!
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UPDATE: Ok so took it for another ride yesterday and it still continues the stalling out **** and it seems to me it is 3rd gear for sure. All though I have a new symptom with it. The idle was alot higher....It was sitting about 1300-1500 rpm just at idle of cousre that was after being warmed up....I'm leaning towards the TPS some how or another and the tune. I've had my battery disco'd several times for different things going on but the computer should retain it's mail order tune for sure. So if I where to go get a dyno tune they can tune all of these kinds of things and setup up the TPS correct? Anyone deal with tuners around Missouri
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do you have anyway to datalog it if so make sure your TPS is at 0% at idle and not higher, then check in see if you have enough fluid in the trans if not that could be a problem it could cause the fluid to get to hot and have those problems but it should happen in every gear not just 3rd....just some things to look at
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do you have anyway to datalog it if so make sure your TPS is at 0% at idle and not higher, then check in see if you have enough fluid in the trans if not that could be a problem it could cause the fluid to get to hot and have those problems but it should happen in every gear not just 3rd....just some things to look at
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Yes, I just mentioned this in another forum, I did drill out the bolt holes in my TPS so I could turn it but never really tested it with a volt meter or anything. Not sure even where or how to adjust it the proper way. I mean I know I can turn the thing but what readings I should be looking for is another story. What is the best way to adjust and check this?????
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you dont need a tune for a TB you just have to adjust the TPS and IAC back done to what it suppose to be, which is around .50-.67v on the TPS with a IAC count around 20-40. if your TPS is not at 0% it can and will throw off your shift points.
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Yes, I just mentioned this in another forum, I did drill out the bolt holes in my TPS so I could turn it but never really tested it with a volt meter or anything. Not sure even where or how to adjust it the proper way. I mean I know I can turn the thing but what readings I should be looking for is another story. What is the best way to adjust and check this?????
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So most likely this is my issue then. I guys I'm going to read up on this TPS adjustment or what not on Shbox's site. I think I have read it a while back but it has been a while for sure. I'll just check it out real quick.....So can this potentially **** up my brand new trans and stall???? Anyone locally have a data logger by chance that would like to help out????
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Ok I went out and took a reading on my TPS and this is what it reads: .66 sitting and 5.11 WOT with the key in the on pos but not running, I adjusted it to the recommended
.67 sitting and now it's 5.15 WOT.....I just cant for see this being my problem. Barely off at all, damn I was pretty much dead on for just setting it up by feel and sound of the car running....So WTF is my problem now, lol???? Not sure how to check the IAC, oh and what is the 0% thing your talking about, you said it needs cetain volts and then something about 0%...Above is what I have so not sure where to go from this point, let me know what you think
.67 sitting and now it's 5.15 WOT.....I just cant for see this being my problem. Barely off at all, damn I was pretty much dead on for just setting it up by feel and sound of the car running....So WTF is my problem now, lol???? Not sure how to check the IAC, oh and what is the 0% thing your talking about, you said it needs cetain volts and then something about 0%...Above is what I have so not sure where to go from this point, let me know what you think
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Straight from a tuners mouth.... i though the same thing and he told me he doesn't tune for a TB you just have to correct the TPS and IAC and the computer adjust for it
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Well talked with a few tuners today and FLT and it may have something to do with my WOT tables or some ****. I have an appoinment to drive 3 and half hours to go get a dyno tune on Oct 18th. The drive doesn't bother me it's the simple fact it's not for another coupel weeks.