96 Impala
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96 Impala
Well I just bought a 94 SS, and this is the first one I am planning on actually keeping since I sold the 'hawk. The problem is that I don't know **** about where I can get mods for this car. I looked on TSP but didn't find anything, did research, didn't find anything. I want to do full bolt on's but no and cam for now. Maybe LT4 Heads and intake when I find out a little. I also want to know what LT's are good for their price, I have glass pack mufflers with O/R X-pipe ( Would also like to know whats good) in mind. Any help would be great, thanks!
I want to get:
LT's
O/R X-Pipe
Gears
Shift Kit
Torque Converter
Intake
T/B
Underdrive Pulley
I want to get:
LT's
O/R X-Pipe
Gears
Shift Kit
Torque Converter
Intake
T/B
Underdrive Pulley
Last edited by vetteboy99; 02-15-2011 at 08:44 PM.
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Go to: http://www.impalassforum.com/vBulletin/index.php
See the sticky at the top of the Engine Performance section titled "Go Fast Basics for Your B-Body"
See the sticky at the top of the Engine Performance section titled "Go Fast Basics for Your B-Body"
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Go to: http://www.impalassforum.com/vBulletin/index.php
See the sticky at the top of the Engine Performance section titled "Go Fast Basics for Your B-Body"
See the sticky at the top of the Engine Performance section titled "Go Fast Basics for Your B-Body"
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Thanks guys! There is one question, well when I got home, I got back in it to leave, and it took 3 times to get it to start, after I got it to start, I cut it back of and came 10 mins later, and it did the same thing. How can I fix that? The guy before me has aftermarket Plugs in it so could that be why? And Also the speedometer Would Flicker on and off ( It's a 94 So it has the DIGI Speedo), The speedo would work fine and the trip would show, but the miles and Speed your doing would keep Flickering real quickly and say error. How can I fix that to?
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Unless the LT4 heads are dirt cheap I would look elsewhere for heads, but ported they are really nice. Skip the UD pulley as said. Unless you just want 3 hp for 50 bucks...
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For your purposes specifically there are two reasons to consider using LT4 heads, one would be to keep it all GM, but ported aluminum LT1 heads are GM and a much better choice. The second reason would be IGNORANCE.
Pay particular attention to the professional tuner's input in post 6.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/lt1-lt4-m...1-intakes.html
I would still not completely agree with him, IMO once you need to go beyond what ported LT1 castings can give you, which very few people do, then it is time to look at an aftermarket casting to start with.
Not the answer you wanted but bowtienut and I have two VERY stout NA b-bodies and neither of us runs LT4 stuff, we instead choose to do things right.
Pay particular attention to the professional tuner's input in post 6.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/lt1-lt4-m...1-intakes.html
I would still not completely agree with him, IMO once you need to go beyond what ported LT1 castings can give you, which very few people do, then it is time to look at an aftermarket casting to start with.
Not the answer you wanted but bowtienut and I have two VERY stout NA b-bodies and neither of us runs LT4 stuff, we instead choose to do things right.
#12
96caprice is correct on the LT1 heads, in BONE STOCK form they are more capable than alot of the older "Hi-Po" and "Bowtie" race heads. LT4s are WAY overrated, they offer a little better port geometry for about what you'd spend in having a capable porter turn your factory LT1 castings into something alot better. That's not including the cost of the matching LT4 intake you'd also have to have to use those heads.
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Well I am getting price quotes from someone next on porting the heads on it now, we will see what happens. Any other suggestions on basic bolt on's? I might throw Nawz in the end.
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I always meant to port a set of the iron heads for one of my wagons but it never happened. Honestly I would not bother paying someone to port them. All that money plus extra to have screwin studs done and when guys have had them heavily ported some have had them crack between the valves. Not worth the money to mess with them. In stock form the iron heads are nice but once you are going to put money into a set of heads the f-body heads are a better place to start, not all casting numbers though a few specific ones.
#16
Clean ride man! I thought of selling my 03 Crown Vic P71 for a 96 Impalla SS, but it runs well and I just can't justify it (I still want one though). I forgot you had iron heads. Once again, I agree with 96caprice, you'd be better off looking for a set of aluminum heads to start with (374 castings were the early ones with more meat for porting IIRC).
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Clean ride man! I thought of selling my 03 Crown Vic P71 for a 96 Impalla SS, but it runs well and I just can't justify it (I still want one though). I forgot you had iron heads. Once again, I agree with 96caprice, you'd be better off looking for a set of aluminum heads to start with (374 castings were the early ones with more meat for porting IIRC).
#18
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bowtienut and I have both shown pretty conclusively these cars can be shockingly quick. It seems like you do not want to learn anything just looking for praise on your purchase and poor plans.
If you can listen you can have a daily driver that will run solid 12s on street tires. You do halfassed stuff like LT4 heads and underdrive pulleys you will have a car that cost as much to maybe tickle 12s in good air on slicks.
If you can listen you can have a daily driver that will run solid 12s on street tires. You do halfassed stuff like LT4 heads and underdrive pulleys you will have a car that cost as much to maybe tickle 12s in good air on slicks.
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Uh, didn't I say that this is my first ss and LT1 and I don't know **** about them? Well if I didn't, this is my first ss and LT1 and I don't know **** about them. I do wanna learn, don't take me wrong. So your saying F-body heads are the way to go?
#20
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I am saying PORTED f-body heads are the way to go. Stock for stock they would be a huge waste of effort.
Before that though you really need a lot of other mods, Cold Air Intake, exhaust replaced from manifolds to bumper, at least a shift kit if not a full rebuild, higher stall torque converter, 3.42-4.10 rearend gears preferably with a new posi.
New lower rear control arms because the stock sheetmetal ones flex a lot.
Going to need a Racetronix fuel pump kit and say 30lbs injectors too.
Bigger throttle body and MAF are a good idea at the same time as the heads/cam swap too.
Before that though you really need a lot of other mods, Cold Air Intake, exhaust replaced from manifolds to bumper, at least a shift kit if not a full rebuild, higher stall torque converter, 3.42-4.10 rearend gears preferably with a new posi.
New lower rear control arms because the stock sheetmetal ones flex a lot.
Going to need a Racetronix fuel pump kit and say 30lbs injectors too.
Bigger throttle body and MAF are a good idea at the same time as the heads/cam swap too.