Fluidampr balancer too far out. Will pull shim but that might not help.
09-10-2011, 12:01 PM
#1
Fluidampr balancer too far out. Will pull shim but that might not help. Just installed the balancer and it looks to far out from others that I've seen on this forum. It's a bit more than 3/8" out from the optispark cover. I'm going to pull out the shim but that might not help because I'm using a Rollmaster double roller. How much does it need to be pressed on?
And here there's a full inch of space fron the crank snout.
And here there's a full inch of space fron the crank snout.
09-10-2011, 01:22 PM
#3
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Mine once installed looked like this :
Original thread here ( not sure if it will help you tho ) :
https://ls1tech.com/forums/lt1-lt4-m...questions.html
I'm using #12370835 GM single roller extreme duty timing chain set.
Original thread here ( not sure if it will help you tho ) :
https://ls1tech.com/forums/lt1-lt4-m...questions.html
I'm using #12370835 GM single roller extreme duty timing chain set.
09-10-2011, 01:36 PM
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The only way to know if it's right is to put the rest of the accessories on and see how the belt lines up. Mine looks about like yours and the belt lines up perfect, I used the shim with a Cloyes double roller.
09-10-2011, 02:36 PM
#5
Mine once installed looked like this :
Original thread here ( not sure if it will help you tho ) :
https://ls1tech.com/forums/lt1-lt4-m...questions.html
I'm using #12370835 GM single roller extreme duty timing chain set.
Original thread here ( not sure if it will help you tho ) :
https://ls1tech.com/forums/lt1-lt4-m...questions.html
I'm using #12370835 GM single roller extreme duty timing chain set.
09-10-2011, 04:47 PM
#7
With Fluidampr shim belt was off by ~1/8"
Took shim out (had to pull timing cover crank seal) now belt is only off by ~1/16"
Obviously the double roller is thicker. I only checked with AC delete pulley but gonna bolt on the Alternator tomorrow. I'll shim the accessory bracket if the belt is still off by 1/16".
Took shim out (had to pull timing cover crank seal) now belt is only off by ~1/16"
Obviously the double roller is thicker. I only checked with AC delete pulley but gonna bolt on the Alternator tomorrow. I'll shim the accessory bracket if the belt is still off by 1/16".
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09-11-2011, 07:39 AM
#10
The spacer is to be used on '92-'95 LT1s, that are OBDI engines, the ones without the crank position sensor. The later cars, the '96-'97 OBDII cars, have the crank sensor in place as OE, so you don't use the spacer. This, of course, is based on the use of an OE style timing chaing and gear set.
Using a double roller chain, which is wider, would eliminate the need for the spacer. However, as the OP has seen, it's entirely possible that a double roller crank gear is actually wider than an OE gear and crank sensor put together. You may have to machine a little off the snout of the Fluidampr....
Using a double roller chain, which is wider, would eliminate the need for the spacer. However, as the OP has seen, it's entirely possible that a double roller crank gear is actually wider than an OE gear and crank sensor put together. You may have to machine a little off the snout of the Fluidampr....
09-11-2011, 09:32 AM
#11
The spacer is to be used on '92-'95 LT1s, that are OBDI engines, the ones without the crank position sensor. The later cars, the '96-'97 OBDII cars, have the crank sensor in place as OE, so you don't use the spacer. This, of course, is based on the use of an OE style timing chaing and gear set.
Using a double roller chain, which is wider, would eliminate the need for the spacer. However, as the OP has seen, it's entirely possible that a double roller crank gear is actually wider than an OE gear and crank sensor put together. You may have to machine a little off the snout of the Fluidampr....
Using a double roller chain, which is wider, would eliminate the need for the spacer. However, as the OP has seen, it's entirely possible that a double roller crank gear is actually wider than an OE gear and crank sensor put together. You may have to machine a little off the snout of the Fluidampr....
All SBC timing sets should be the same depth for the timing gear as it is a standard for SBC hubs to have a given depth. The 96-97 units used a CPS reluctor wheel, thus thier hub got shortened to accomodate it.
Every SBC "quality" timing set I have used has the proper depth for the timing gear, including Rollermaster, Pro-Gear, Cloyes and Lunati.
To the OP, are you sure the timing gear was pressed all the way onto the crank? Are you sure that you fully bottomed out the fluidamper against the timing gear if it was?
Also, DO NOT use the fact that the crank starts turning as an indicator that you bottomed out the damper. You need to make sure the crank can't turn and use at least 60-75 ft/lbs to make sure the damper is all the way down.
I honestly would never shim the accessory bracket to get a balancer to fit. There has to be something wrong somewhere.
09-11-2011, 09:37 AM
#12
I may also add, I also had to run the shim along with a Pro-Gear set when I used a fluidamper on a previous buildup.
Since you mentioned you used a rollermaster, you should need to use the shim. I have a rollermaster on my '95 TA and the crank gear it is exactly the same depth as stock. On that one I used a professional products damper and had to use the supplied shim as well.
Since you mentioned you used a rollermaster, you should need to use the shim. I have a rollermaster on my '95 TA and the crank gear it is exactly the same depth as stock. On that one I used a professional products damper and had to use the supplied shim as well.
09-11-2011, 10:57 AM
#13
See, that would mean to me that the timing set was flawed.
All SBC timing sets should be the same depth for the timing gear as it is a standard for SBC hubs to have a given depth. The 96-97 units used a CPS reluctor wheel, thus thier hub got shortened to accomodate it.
Every SBC "quality" timing set I have used has the proper depth for the timing gear, including Rollermaster, Pro-Gear, Cloyes and Lunati.
To the OP, are you sure the timing gear was pressed all the way onto the crank? Are you sure that you fully bottomed out the fluidamper against the timing gear if it was?
Also, DO NOT use the fact that the crank starts turning as an indicator that you bottomed out the damper. You need to make sure the crank can't turn and use at least 60-75 ft/lbs to make sure the damper is all the way down.
I honestly would never shim the accessory bracket to get a balancer to fit. There has to be something wrong somewhere.
All SBC timing sets should be the same depth for the timing gear as it is a standard for SBC hubs to have a given depth. The 96-97 units used a CPS reluctor wheel, thus thier hub got shortened to accomodate it.
Every SBC "quality" timing set I have used has the proper depth for the timing gear, including Rollermaster, Pro-Gear, Cloyes and Lunati.
To the OP, are you sure the timing gear was pressed all the way onto the crank? Are you sure that you fully bottomed out the fluidamper against the timing gear if it was?
Also, DO NOT use the fact that the crank starts turning as an indicator that you bottomed out the damper. You need to make sure the crank can't turn and use at least 60-75 ft/lbs to make sure the damper is all the way down.
I honestly would never shim the accessory bracket to get a balancer to fit. There has to be something wrong somewhere.
What I'll do is tighten it one more time when the engine and tranny are in. Or I'll have someone hold the rear steady with some bolts and a breaker bar and see if the damper is fully seated.
Thanx for the heads up.
09-11-2011, 11:37 AM
#14
I would strongly encourage you to address this before you put the engine in...way easier to work with motor on a stand
