LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

First Crank on the new motor

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 10-18-2011, 03:39 PM
  #1  
TECH Regular
Thread Starter
iTrader: (6)
 
mguidry629's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Baton Rouge, LA
Posts: 401
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default First Crank on the new motor

http://youtu.be/7oMWbBJ2tkA

Finally got the motor in the car and cranked it up last night after 8 months of down time. Still have a lot to do, but it feels good to hear it run.

I didn't have the water pump installed yet, so I didn't hook up the water temp sensor.

It won't crank unless you give it throttle. I'm going to install the water pump and fill it with coolant so I can run it a little longer, but does anyone have any ideas why you have to give it the throttle to start it? Could it have something to do with coolant temp being -40*? Also, does the knock sensor work correctly without coolant in the block?

Only code it threw was "low coolant".

Also once it started it stayed running at an idle with no problems. Just a little confused that it won't start without giving it some throttle. Maybe something with the Holley 58mm TB?
Old 10-18-2011, 03:45 PM
  #2  
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (11)
 
defaultexistence's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: fort walton beach,fl
Posts: 1,954
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Yes it will run shitty without the pcm's temp sensor, and you probably need to crack the TB blades. And set the TPS.... Is it tuned yet?
Old 10-18-2011, 03:50 PM
  #3  
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (11)
 
defaultexistence's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: fort walton beach,fl
Posts: 1,954
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

http://www.golenengineservice.com/do.../Adj%20TPS.pdf.
Old 10-18-2011, 03:52 PM
  #4  
TECH Regular
Thread Starter
iTrader: (6)
 
mguidry629's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Baton Rouge, LA
Posts: 401
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Ya, I bought an email tune from Solomon and loaded it to the pcm before I cranked it. I'm going to datalog it and have him fine tune it until I can get to the dyno.

I'm about to go work on installing the water pump and getting some coolant in there, so we'll see if anything changes.
Old 10-18-2011, 04:18 PM
  #5  
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (4)
 
95mysticta's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Oshawa, Ontario
Posts: 1,368
Likes: 0
Received 10 Likes on 4 Posts
LS1Tech 10 Year
Default

Sounds good what was all done?
Old 10-18-2011, 04:48 PM
  #6  
11 Second Club
iTrader: (1)
 
96capricemgr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 11,975
Likes: 0
Received 12 Likes on 12 Posts

Default

Or if you would like to know how to handle idle air in a correct fashion and understand things. You can go here.
http://members.***.net/chipsbyal/page/idle/#stocktbi
Old 10-18-2011, 05:24 PM
  #7  
TECH Regular
Thread Starter
iTrader: (6)
 
mguidry629's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Baton Rouge, LA
Posts: 401
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by 95mysticta
Sounds good what was all done?
I kept the bottom end the same, 383. Just refreshed it a little. I bumped up compression to 12:1. Upgraded cam from cc305 to LE custom 232/242 .579/.578 110lsa. And beefed up the valvetrain to support the cam. I ported the heads to 195cc and got larger valves 2.02/1.6. The heads won't compare to a CNC job or even an experienced hand porter job, but they flow a good deal better than stock. Going from a stock torque converter to the Yank SS3600, and gears from 3.23 to 3.73.
Old 10-18-2011, 06:14 PM
  #8  
TECH Resident
iTrader: (5)
 
96lt4c4's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Bardstown, KY
Posts: 963
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post

Default

If that is an aftermarket TB you need to check for the hole that bleeds air in the IAC passage. We just went threw this with a budies 383 with a 58 mm TB. If you compare your stock TB to the aftermarket you will see what I am talking about. You also need to log and watch you IAC counts, they need to be down around 30-50. You adjust this by setting the throttle blade screw, while loging the car until they come down. Thats how we did it and it worked great.
Old 10-18-2011, 06:15 PM
  #9  
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (4)
 
95mysticta's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Oshawa, Ontario
Posts: 1,368
Likes: 0
Received 10 Likes on 4 Posts
LS1Tech 10 Year
Default

Youve done alot of upgrades im sure its a whole new car from the old the setup.
Old 10-18-2011, 06:31 PM
  #10  
Launching!
iTrader: (5)
 
katz_2003's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Kansas
Posts: 205
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Sounds good man!
Old 10-19-2011, 11:47 AM
  #11  
TECH Regular
Thread Starter
iTrader: (6)
 
mguidry629's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Baton Rouge, LA
Posts: 401
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

I appreciate the info on the TB, but my idle seems fine for now. I'm more concerned about why I have to give it throttle to start it. Only reason I mentioned TB is because I thought it may be the cause (not enough air getting in).

I installed the water pump and all the plumbing. I forgot I had taken the heater core hoses out to paint the engine bay. Those were a PITA to get back in with the motor in, wish I would have done that before I dropped the motor in. I also forgot how much room all the coolant hoses take up.

After I put coolant in the system and ran the EWP, no leaks found, I went to start it and now I have no spark. I was too tired and frustrated by then to troubleshoot, but I'm thinking it may have something to do with the opti harness. I didn't mess with anything else and it was running fine the day before (once is started).
Old 10-19-2011, 05:25 PM
  #12  
11 Second Club
iTrader: (1)
 
96capricemgr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 11,975
Likes: 0
Received 12 Likes on 12 Posts

Default

What are the idle air counts once it starts?

If it is maxxed out after firing and you are using pedal to start it then ........................................
Old 10-19-2011, 06:01 PM
  #13  
Launching!
iTrader: (1)
 
killerz97's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 236
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts

Default

Sounds pretty close to the same combo i have LE 234/242 .579/.577 110LSA with a 383 with 12:1 compression. I also just had the heads cleaned up but am still running stock valves. So far the car has gone 12.74 at 112 with a 2.0 60' on stock converter, stock suspension, and full weight with 2.73 gears.
Old 10-19-2011, 08:32 PM
  #14  
TECH Regular
Thread Starter
iTrader: (6)
 
mguidry629's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Baton Rouge, LA
Posts: 401
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

IAC counts are high 70-80. I'll get that adjusted and see if that helps. It cranked a couple times tonight without giving it throttle, but more often I had to give it throttle.
Old 10-20-2011, 12:45 PM
  #15  
TECH Resident
iTrader: (5)
 
96lt4c4's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Bardstown, KY
Posts: 963
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post

Default

Originally Posted by mguidry629
I appreciate the info on the TB, but my idle seems fine for now. I'm more concerned about why I have to give it throttle to start it. Only reason I mentioned TB is because I thought it may be the cause (not enough air getting in).

I installed the water pump and all the plumbing. I forgot I had taken the heater core hoses out to paint the engine bay. Those were a PITA to get back in with the motor in, wish I would have done that before I dropped the motor in. I also forgot how much room all the coolant hoses take up.

After I put coolant in the system and ran the EWP, no leaks found, I went to start it and now I have no spark. I was too tired and frustrated by then to troubleshoot, but I'm thinking it may have something to do with the opti harness. I didn't mess with anything else and it was running fine the day before (once is started).
Mikes car was doing the same thing, as soon as we drilled the hole and adjusted the throttle screw it started a lot better. The other thing with his car is the fuel pump check valve is bad, so the pump would have to cycle a few times before it would start when it was cold.
Old 10-20-2011, 02:36 PM
  #16  
TECH Regular
Thread Starter
iTrader: (6)
 
mguidry629's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Baton Rouge, LA
Posts: 401
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Thanks I agree that it will probably start and idle better after I drill a hole in the TB IAC passage.

I keep taking 1 step forward and 2 steps back It takes some major patience to play with these cars (unless you have plenty of money), and my patience (and wallet) is running thin

I will be testing my fuel pump this evening to see what went wrong. I have another thread on this but I'm not getting any responses. I'll just have to troubleshoot it tonight and hope it's the relay or something, but it was working great one second and just went dead. If it's the pump, I hope racetronix has a warranty because it's less than one year old with less than 2000 miles on it.



Quick Reply: First Crank on the new motor



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 02:05 PM.