Zlow28

iTrader: (11)

I finally decided to try and replace my head gaskets on my a4 96 z28. I already removed the valve covers and had to get the traction control unit out of the way for the drivers side. I removed the alternator and throttle body. However im kinda stuck on the fuel lines. I heard i need a fuel line disconnect tool, but the manual im following shows nothing about using a tool.

Also, can anyone tell me what this is? I accidentally broke it while trying to remove it.



Will i need to buy a new connector or something?

If i have time tomorow, ill remove the exhaust manifolds, and ill try tro figure out the fuel line removal out. If not ill have to wait till monday.
Also if you guys got any tips for the process let me know.

Thanks for any help!

defaultexistence

iTrader: (11)

The connection for our fuel lines and the tool needed is the Same concept illustrated in this ford application video,
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DKgQJ...e_gdata_player

Goto auto zone and get the $10 or less GM" fuel line quick disconnect tool..There are two sizes, get the one that has both..Yes you broke the map sensor plug and will need to re-pin a new one on..
http://www.repairconnector.com/produ...rs-Trucks.html
Don't break ****!

Spartan7

iTrader: (7)

You can get away with leaving the fuel lines connected. Just pop the rails and injectors off the manifold, then rotate it up and lay it on the windshield/cowl.

But if you want to remove them, get the OEM metal disconnect tools from Autozone. The plastic ones suck.

EFI Connection offers replacement high-quality connectors for a good price. Check their ebay store.

the_merv

iTrader: (88)

MAP Connector..I've only seen one that was whole..they are delicate.

97WS6SCharged

iTrader: (1)

Napa sells Weatherpack shells (but they list them as something else so you'll need to dig through the books). Easiest way to fix your broken connector would be to get a new shell and a Weatherpack terminal release tool. Then simply pop the ends out of the old connector and put them in the new one. No crimping, so soldering.

http://www.amazon.com/Delphi-Packard.../dp/B000IIY56E

Zlow28

iTrader: (11)

Thanks for the vid and link. Id seen the tool before but had no idea how it was used.

Id leave em on if i could, but this project might take a good while so i think im better off taking em off. Im thinking about adding an off the shelf cam while i do this. I already have lifters, springs, and im getting new pushrods and rockers soon. Or i might just send my heads to LE or AI

No doubt, especially on a 15 year old car. It broke very easily

Thanks for the link. However, will i still need this if i bought the connector from the link default showed me?


Again thanks for the help and tips!

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

No you don't. The pigtail will just need to be soldered onto the original wires.
Best thing to do is to get as much crap out of the engine bay as possible so it is a good idea to get the fuel rails out.
Other thing you'll need is an offset 9/16" box end wrench for one of the bolts that is fastened to the head through the accessory bracket. There is another bolt, same size, that is behind the power steering pump. Pump needs to come off the bracket in order reach the bolt.

defaultexistence

iTrader: (11)

Pushrods will be the very last thing you want to buy, once your done with cam or head work and reinstall everything you MUST check pushrod length with a pushrod length tool and a solid lifter(old OEM lifter stuffed with washers with cup and clip reinstalled) Proper length and geometry is critical .Once you get proper length , instead of guessing turns.. You can just take the pushrod tool to a local machine shop and have them measure the length with a caliper and just tell you. I use comp cam tool PN#7905
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cqx8C...e_gdata_player


You can buy either one , but like stated buy the pin removal tool to back the pins outta the broken connection.. Do them one at a time and repin them in proper location on the new plug.. Your not alone, I broke my map plug the first time I had to remove my intake.. It was very brittle . As most of the others I have since replaced..

the_merv

iTrader: (88)

Mine was broken at the clip and all 3 of the plastic parts around the Pins..still stayed in tho..lol.

Zlow28

iTrader: (11)

Thanks for the help guys. As for the pushrods, yes i will measure them first, that vid really helps out. However, i couldve sworn i saw one that was covered in gunk or whatever it was. Ill take a better look today. Sucks that the days are so short.

Zlow28

iTrader: (11)

So i had some time to work on her today, but i still couldnt remove the damn fuel lines. I tried for a good while, and even my stepdad gave it a try and we couldnt get em off. Heres what happened to the fuel line disconnect tool...

It was just a cheap vatozone one with the 3/8" and 5/16" sizes. So imma return it today.

Anyway i just kept going with the fuel rails still intact, and even though it was a PITA, i managed to remove the intake manifold. That gave me enough room to move the fuel rails over the wiring harness and finally, out of the way. So now all i need is to remove the exhaust manifolds, rockers, pushrods and springs to pull off the heads right? Heres what she currently looks like at night

You can see some spots where the coolant went in and mixed with the oil

defaultexistence

iTrader: (11)

Steam Pipe bolted with banjo bolts to back of heads.. You'll need 4 new gaskets there..
Cheapest i found are GM PN#10108689 on gmpartseast.com ... If you do a cam make sure you check the oil pump drive for wear and at least install a new pump drive steel collar'd shaft..

Zlow28

iTrader: (11)

Ahh thanks for reminding me. Im planning on doing Speed Density's coolant crossover conversion shown here. Im going to follow that once i get them off. For the meantime, ill get a friend to help me remove both heads at the same time.

As for the oil pump, how does a new oil pump drive shaft differ from just getting a GM white spring? From what i heard, the white spring will allow you to run more pressure without affecting idle. Will a new oil pump drive shaft work the same? or do they serve a different purpose?

quik95lt1

iTrader: (7)

just cut the coolant crossover pipe and run new plumbing pulling the heads off together is damn near impossible.........as for the oil pump.....let the pressure be theres no reason for you to need increased oil pressure....also you can put in a hardend drive shaft but you're not doing that or changing the spring without dropping the pan which you arent going to be doing in the car so just leave all that stuff alone.....

also that coolant crossover may come really close to the fire wall you can do it with 90* fittings out of the heads and straight hose end fittings.......cheaper also........heres mine i did this mainly to clear some stuff that was in the way.....

the_merv

iTrader: (88)

Those holes in the Heads are 1/4NPT..lowes has fittings.

Zlow28

iTrader: (11)

@quick95lt1, thanks for the pic, thats kinda what i was planning to do. Since the heads will be out, i shouldnt struggle with getting the 90* fittings to face the right direction. So for the oil shaft/spring, itll be ok without upgrading anything (assuming everythings in proper working condition)? If i were to get a cam it will most likely be a cc503 for now.

@merv, ill make sure i write that size down. I can already picture a lowes employee telling me to go to aisle 2 or 7 with a confused look in his face lol

EDIT; today ill unbolt the exhaust manifolds, remove the coolant pipes, rockers, springs, and pushrods, and finally get the heads out.
Thanks again for the help.

quik95lt1

iTrader: (7)

yea just leave the rest of the motor alone.........what "springs" are you removing??

Zlow28

iTrader: (11)

Valvesprings. I got some patriot xtreme ones that are going in. Along with new locks, retainers and bases. I just need to order valve stem seals.

defaultexistence

iTrader: (11)

There is No reason to not reuse the stock steam pipe and banjo bolts unless they are broke .. Why rig **** when there's no reason? And no don't screw with the oil pump pressure.. Lots of people report drive failures after doing so.. You don't need the extra pressure..
I'll take your steam pipe and banjo bolts if you don't want them..
You may also need a valve seal install tool...

quik95lt1

iTrader: (7)

gotcha.......just a suggestion when you put the valves back in might as well lap them with some light compound while you're there to clean up the seat........also with the valve seals you dont need a tool pop the old ones off with a needle nose plyers and the new ones put them on in a rotating downward motion.....you'll have no issues