Convertor or Headers?
#1
Convertor or Headers?
Hello,
I am most likely keeping my car for awhile. It is a stock 95 LT1 with an A4 and 135K on it. I drive it no less than 40 miles everytime I start it, so gas mileage is important.
I'd like to start drag racing next summer, and perhaps some AutoX. Week end warrior a few times with a definate interest in the drags. I will likely do SFC's, and LCA's as well as other simple things to keep the car straight and so forth.
As far as performance goes, which will net me a bigger return in performance, the headers like pacesetters with no cats, or a good 3000-3600 stall?
The car is pretty tight and pretty clean. I want to drive it most every day and lay down a reasonable number at the track.
BTW- Just for fun, what should a stock 3.23 geared LT1 run with a convertor alone? What should it do with both convertor and headers?
I am looking for the most bang for the buck, while still accepting the fact that it is a DD and I do take trips in it.
Thank you for your help.
ROB
I am most likely keeping my car for awhile. It is a stock 95 LT1 with an A4 and 135K on it. I drive it no less than 40 miles everytime I start it, so gas mileage is important.
I'd like to start drag racing next summer, and perhaps some AutoX. Week end warrior a few times with a definate interest in the drags. I will likely do SFC's, and LCA's as well as other simple things to keep the car straight and so forth.
As far as performance goes, which will net me a bigger return in performance, the headers like pacesetters with no cats, or a good 3000-3600 stall?
The car is pretty tight and pretty clean. I want to drive it most every day and lay down a reasonable number at the track.
BTW- Just for fun, what should a stock 3.23 geared LT1 run with a convertor alone? What should it do with both convertor and headers?
I am looking for the most bang for the buck, while still accepting the fact that it is a DD and I do take trips in it.
Thank you for your help.
ROB
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#10
I have 3.23's and I am looking for a compromise car. I am willing to accept the compromises in performance.
I am sure that a set of 3.73's, headers and a convertor would get me a pretty good wow! factor.
Unfortunately, I need to drive 40 miles at hwy speeds everytime I drive it MPG does matter.
In your opinion, what is the maximum stall you can run with 3.23's and keep reasonable driving performance and efficiency? I don't mind installing a cooler.
Thank you, ROB
I am sure that a set of 3.73's, headers and a convertor would get me a pretty good wow! factor.
Unfortunately, I need to drive 40 miles at hwy speeds everytime I drive it MPG does matter.
In your opinion, what is the maximum stall you can run with 3.23's and keep reasonable driving performance and efficiency? I don't mind installing a cooler.
Thank you, ROB
#11
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I have 3.23's and I am looking for a compromise car. I am willing to accept the compromises in performance.
I am sure that a set of 3.73's, headers and a convertor would get me a pretty good wow! factor.
Unfortunately, I need to drive 40 miles at hwy speeds everytime I drive it MPG does matter.
In your opinion, what is the maximum stall you can run with 3.23's and keep reasonable driving performance and efficiency? I don't mind installing a cooler.
Thank you, ROB
I am sure that a set of 3.73's, headers and a convertor would get me a pretty good wow! factor.
Unfortunately, I need to drive 40 miles at hwy speeds everytime I drive it MPG does matter.
In your opinion, what is the maximum stall you can run with 3.23's and keep reasonable driving performance and efficiency? I don't mind installing a cooler.
Thank you, ROB
#13
A converter will help a ton on the street and strip. Depending on the stall it wont effect your MPG very much either (if you can keep your foot out of it). I use EDGE racing converters. They are really well built and very tight converters after it reaches its stall speed.
#14
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Since you're concerned about mpg's......don't spend money on a 3.73 gear swap when you can buy a whole 3.42 rearend for CHEAP from an M6 that will probably be quieter than the average new gear install anyway. That way you'll get about half the gain of 3.23 to 3.73, your mpg change would be barely noticeable, and you'll save some money while having your original rear for a spare. (Which you'll end up needing I bet.)
As far as the headers vs. stall....everyone's already said it: Stall will yield the most. Don't skimp though. I'd rather you put headers in than an uneffecient convertor that might stall high, but eats HP and your fuel ecomomy.
As far as the headers vs. stall....everyone's already said it: Stall will yield the most. Don't skimp though. I'd rather you put headers in than an uneffecient convertor that might stall high, but eats HP and your fuel ecomomy.
#15
Thank you for the input. I will see what this winter brings. From playing with other cars over the years the same message always comes through; you really get what you pay for with convertors. I have seen them under $200 for a convertor. It looks like a good one will run me about $500.
3k or 3600 convertor? My gut says 3k.
3k or 3600 convertor? My gut says 3k.
#16
Hey i just bought a 94 Z28, myself the car is stock besides a cold airintake and a shiftkit in the tranny and the car has 323's, i decided to go with a converter first myself.. You will defintaly get more from a TC than headers by the way i went with a FTI 3200 lock-up..
#17
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As long as you are going with a quality convertor I'd go a little bigger than 3k. That 3200 or 3600 sounds good. I'm about to be in the market for one too. Picked up an A4 Trans am. My other LT1 cars are all T56.