7000 rpm on a arp bolt rebuild
01-02-2013, 09:39 PM
#1
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7000 rpm on a arp bolt rebuild I've decided to go with a AI 200cc h/c/i 350. I figure I'll go with a 23x/24x cam , that would give plenty enough room to max out the pcm. I plan to go 383 in the future, but at the moment the 350 will have to suffice . I intend to rebuild with arp bolts and see what happens. -Anyone done this successfully?
01-02-2013, 10:00 PM
#2
Are you planning on using stock rods, stock pistons, stock crank and just replacing bearings and hardware? I don't see a problem as long as it's done properly.
But the real question is why do it twice? Wait and save the $$$ to do the 383. You'll thank yourself later and save some $ too.
But the real question is why do it twice? Wait and save the $$$ to do the 383. You'll thank yourself later and save some $ too.
01-02-2013, 10:15 PM
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01-02-2013, 10:40 PM
#7
I know that. But the statement that I replied to is stating that the heads will max out before the pcm. Which to me is viceversa where the stock pcm will quit before 7100-7200 rpm. And as Aleks running the same heads/intake in addition with a SR cam and FAST system. The AI ported heads was impressively still making power up in the higher rpms.
Last edited by BOLO; 01-02-2013 at 11:50 PM.
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01-02-2013, 10:49 PM
#8
Long as the rods are properly reconditioned yes that will work just fine.
Far as doing the 383 now or later maybe it would be a good idea to ask if he is planning the 383 for next winter or 3 years from now. IMO that detail would affect my opinion of if the refreshed 350 is worthwhile.
Far as doing the 383 now or later maybe it would be a good idea to ask if he is planning the 383 for next winter or 3 years from now. IMO that detail would affect my opinion of if the refreshed 350 is worthwhile.
01-02-2013, 10:50 PM
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Are you planning on using stock rods, stock pistons, stock crank and just replacing bearings and hardware? I don't see a problem as long as it's done properly.
But the real question is why do it twice? Wait and save the $$$ to do the 383. You'll thank yourself later and save some $ too.
But the real question is why do it twice? Wait and save the $$$ to do the 383. You'll thank yourself later and save some $ too.
01-02-2013, 10:58 PM
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Long as the rods are properly reconditioned yes that will work just fine.
Far as doing the 383 now or later maybe it would be a good idea to ask if he is planning the 383 for next winter or 3 years from now. IMO that detail would affect my opinion of if the refreshed 350 is worthwhile.
Far as doing the 383 now or later maybe it would be a good idea to ask if he is planning the 383 for next winter or 3 years from now. IMO that detail would affect my opinion of if the refreshed 350 is worthwhile.
01-02-2013, 11:09 PM
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I like your style. I imagine it would take me a little while to be at a point where I could afford to stroke it (school, loan, rent) so if a fresh bottom end will hold for 2 years that would be great.- How do you think your cam would do in an AI 350?
01-02-2013, 11:24 PM
#13
a 383 will suck those heads and intake dry long before 7k I will put money on it 
We had to cut out the intake wall and move to push rods to get the curve where it needed to be and the heads you are listing ain't got it
The saying "been there done that spent a cubic ton of money to get there" comes to mind
We had to cut out the intake wall and move to push rods to get the curve where it needed to be and the heads you are listing ain't got it
The saying "been there done that spent a cubic ton of money to get there" comes to mind
01-02-2013, 11:34 PM
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a 383 will suck those heads and intake dry long before 7k I will put money on it
We had to cut out the intake wall and move to push rods to get the curve where it needed to be and the heads you are listing ain't got it
The saying "been there done that spent a cubic ton of money to get there" comes to mind
We had to cut out the intake wall and move to push rods to get the curve where it needed to be and the heads you are listing ain't got it
The saying "been there done that spent a cubic ton of money to get there" comes to mind
01-02-2013, 11:51 PM
#16
on a 383 they start to go dry 6,400. with a 396-402 around 5,800-6,000. The intakes we did helped 2-300 but until we moved the walls things did not happen.
Sure you can shift when the PCM starts to shut down and get away with it. I did that for a while and did ok.
I finally gave up on the little straws and went to this
yes it is port matched now
Sure you can shift when the PCM starts to shut down and get away with it. I did that for a while and did ok.
I finally gave up on the little straws and went to this
yes it is port matched now
01-02-2013, 11:53 PM
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Yea 23x/24x is a bit much for a stock ci build. Its like running a gm847 on a stock h/c/i setup. Will it work? Sure. But there are better cams out there that will make the power you need without spinning past 7k. I have a 228/236 .592/.592 110lsa cam with very low miles I'm looking to get rid of. Would be perfect for a stock ci based build...
01-03-2013, 12:16 AM
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on a 383 they start to go dry 6,400. with a 396-402 around 5,800-6,000. The intakes we did helped 2-300 but until we moved the walls things did not happen.
Sure you can shift when the PCM starts to shut down and get away with it. I did that for a while and did ok.
I finally gave up on the little straws and went to this
yes it is port matched now
Sure you can shift when the PCM starts to shut down and get away with it. I did that for a while and did ok.
I finally gave up on the little straws and went to this
yes it is port matched now