Best stall for stock lt1 and a 125 shot
#1
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Best stall for stock lt1 and a 125 shot
Hi I was wondering if anyone could recommend a good stall speed for my car. I have a stock 96 z28 with a 125 shot of nitrous. the rear end gears are 2.73. I was think about a 2400 stall but people I know are telling me I am wasting my time. My question is should I go bigger then 2400. the biggest I want to go is 2800. also could anyone tell me how bad a converter will hurt my drivability like fuel mileage and comfort. thank you.
#2
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i'll let the pros give the specifics, but from experience, i had a 3200 stall and wished i'd gone bigger. a yank ss3600 comes highly recommended. it won't hurt you're cty mpg very much and as long as it locks up you're hwy mpg won't change. gears would definitely help too, but will obviously affect your mpg more
#5
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2400 is going to be a stock size converter and the nitrous will push that stall higher and make it less efficient.
You are going to want a good 9.5" unit which is going to be bare minimum 2800stall and 3200 more likely. You will want to stay on the tight side so 3000-3200. If that worries you heat or driveability wise then you need to stop thinking like it is still the 80s.
You need to go with a quality unit too Yank, Edge, Vig, NOT some $400 TCI or ebay unit
You are going to want a good 9.5" unit which is going to be bare minimum 2800stall and 3200 more likely. You will want to stay on the tight side so 3000-3200. If that worries you heat or driveability wise then you need to stop thinking like it is still the 80s.
You need to go with a quality unit too Yank, Edge, Vig, NOT some $400 TCI or ebay unit
#7
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I understand highway mileage wont change but how bad will city be. so if I go with a 2800 stall or 3000 stall how much should I expect to drop my 1/4 mile time. my best is 12.6 with a 2.0 60ft. if a converter will drop me 3 tenths at lest I will do it. a few weeks ago I put 3.42 gears in and my times didn't change at all and my fuel mileage drop a lot. so this weekend I am putting the 2.73 back in. being an 18 year old kid I don't wont to waste the money again and not have anything happen.
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#8
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With that Vigi 3200 on Kumho street tires I would cut 1.7s with good track prep, that was with 3.23 gears in my bolt on LT1. .3-.5 tenths isn't uncommon, for an auto it's the best bang for the buck. I drove my 93 through Houston traffic when I was in college, mixed city/freeway MPG was always around 17. I drove it kinda rough also because I was a bit younger. But around town, it drove fine. Mine wasn't a lock up converter.
#9
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I understand highway mileage wont change but how bad will city be. so if I go with a 2800 stall or 3000 stall how much should I expect to drop my 1/4 mile time. my best is 12.6 with a 2.0 60ft. if a converter will drop me 3 tenths at lest I will do it. a few weeks ago I put 3.42 gears in and my times didn't change at all and my fuel mileage drop a lot. so this weekend I am putting the 2.73 back in. being an 18 year old kid I don't wont to waste the money again and not have anything happen.
If you think 2.73s are better then 3.42s then just walk away and buy a Prius.
If you think 3.42s hurt mileage much less hurt it meaningfully you either did something wrong, drove it a LOT harder or just can't evaluate things competently.
A bolton??? car doing 12.6 is respectable and if you are so foolish as to think 2.73s and 2400 stall is anything but a joke then I can't believe you made the car do that in the quarter.
Even for the most conservative among us 3.42/2800stall is awesome for a daily driver been there done that when the car was seeing 20K miles a year.
When I was in my early 20s I was afraid of gear and stall, then I got a clue.
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Was the car tuned after the 3.42 gears? If not that could make a big difference in the calculations you were using for mileage.
I would stick with at least the 3.42 gears and pick up a Yank SS3600 stall. Have a good tune done afterwards and that will really wake the car up. For a bolt on car with factory converter and 2.73 gears to run 12.6 is pretty good. Finish up the rest of the combination and you could have a strong running bolt on car. Sounds like it is time to bring it out to the LTx Shootout and run the Street Stock class.
I would stick with at least the 3.42 gears and pick up a Yank SS3600 stall. Have a good tune done afterwards and that will really wake the car up. For a bolt on car with factory converter and 2.73 gears to run 12.6 is pretty good. Finish up the rest of the combination and you could have a strong running bolt on car. Sounds like it is time to bring it out to the LTx Shootout and run the Street Stock class.
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Was the car tuned after the 3.42 gears? If not that could make a big difference in the calculations you were using for mileage.
I would stick with at least the 3.42 gears and pick up a Yank SS3600 stall. Have a good tune done afterwards and that will really wake the car up. For a bolt on car with factory converter and 2.73 gears to run 12.6 is pretty good. Finish up the rest of the combination and you could have a strong running bolt on car. Sounds like it is time to bring it out to the LTx Shootout and run the Street Stock class.
I would stick with at least the 3.42 gears and pick up a Yank SS3600 stall. Have a good tune done afterwards and that will really wake the car up. For a bolt on car with factory converter and 2.73 gears to run 12.6 is pretty good. Finish up the rest of the combination and you could have a strong running bolt on car. Sounds like it is time to bring it out to the LTx Shootout and run the Street Stock class.
#14
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A Yank PAS3400 will be perfect for you. Yes, that's PAS (Power Adder Series). It's basically an SS3600 with a modified stator, flashes like an SS3600 but then couples up quicker for less "slippage" beyond flash stall rpm.
Perfect for the juice on a stock motor.
I would change those gears to at least 3.42 no matter what you do for a TC.
Perfect for the juice on a stock motor.
I would change those gears to at least 3.42 no matter what you do for a TC.
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I just went from 2.73s to 3.42s and I can tell you I'm faster then I was before, cars I would run even with I now pull half a car, don't have before and after track results to compare sadly.
Also I've lost 1mpg from the gear switch, went from 22 mixed driving to 21 and I'm boltons, tune and !weight and I drive the **** out of my car.
#16
I've read this figuring out the same. So yank3600 stall and 3.42 gears sounds good. My question is what is the lockup I read about and what is the driving experience like? Thanks in advance
#19
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The stock converter is lockup, and lockup conditions are computer controlled and adjustable.
The "need" for vast amounts of extra tranny cooling is generally overstated as modern quality torque converters really don't generate that much heat not like stuff did 30 years ago. This tranny can actually be run too cold pretty easily. If you can keep the tranny between say 165 and 190 you are doing very well, I wouldn't even worry if it hits 200 sometimes.
Consider that the popular mods of turning down the fan temps and 160 stat both help keep the tranny cooler due to the in radiator cooler.
The "need" for vast amounts of extra tranny cooling is generally overstated as modern quality torque converters really don't generate that much heat not like stuff did 30 years ago. This tranny can actually be run too cold pretty easily. If you can keep the tranny between say 165 and 190 you are doing very well, I wouldn't even worry if it hits 200 sometimes.
Consider that the popular mods of turning down the fan temps and 160 stat both help keep the tranny cooler due to the in radiator cooler.
#20
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I recently took a long trip in my Dad's 2010 Silverado. Periodically checked the trans temp via the OEM readout, and the peak I saw was 124 DegF! If GM thinks that's warm enough for longevity, I don't think we have to worry about too cool!