Gojira94

iTrader: (4)

Pretty sure from roadside diagnostic that my fuel pump died. Hind sight 20/20, I bought a Walbro knockoff (TRE). I'd forgotten that back in 2009 I had to switch out the connector to use that 255lph pump (which I really didn't need). That old stock pigtail is long gone. I discovered this last night, changing out the pump on the roadside.

The relay kicks on at KOEO but I don't hear the fuel pump run. Has been loud enough to hear prime since it was installed.

Is there any other connector on the car that's the same? I have a 2nd 94 Formula I can temporarily cannibalize it off of if there's one just like it somewhere else on the car that's not in the tank.

Anybody got ideas? pics of old / new below.

Paul Bell

iTrader: (9)

Found at Rock Auto, ACDelco fuel tank sending unit: FLS1031 (19111412, 25160326), it has the harness.

This may also help you, but it's for a 96~97: http://www.ebay.com/itm/1996-96-FIREBIRD-TA-FORMULA-FUEL-PUMP-WIRING-HARNESS-/370510797684?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item56442a1b74

cardo0

I think u want this one at Pep Boys for $8: BWD Electrical Connector
Part # 28423 SKU: 118381.

http://www.pepboys.com/product/detai...ils_connectors

Gojira94

iTrader: (4)

Thanks, Paul. That would certainly be everything, but over $200.00 is more than I'd want to spend. Good spot, though.

That looks like a fuel injector connector, unless the link took me elsewhere. I did find one online that looked a lot like what I need on a ZR1 site, AC Delco Part PT-2352 / 88862271. Saw the same thing on EBay, but the Standard Motor Products version of it, looked that up at the brick & mortars in my area and found it at Autozone:

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...h&fromType=oem



$12.99, have to order it. Looks like my fix.

I have to admit I never took the time to really research fuel delivery in regard to BSFC since my application is fairly simple, but I'd think that 208lph (stock style pump delivery rate) is adequate for a cc503 cam + 30# SVOs + stock FPR, somewhere in the 443FWHP neighborhood. Anybody got any feedback on that? Stepping away from a 255lph pump back to 208lph?

cardo0

Ok, it sounds like u are looking for a pin connecter for the "new" pump in the picture with pin terminals. I thought u were trying to revert back to the "old" pump connector as in the picture with blade terminals. U should have labeled them need and dont need.

So if your looking for "pin" terminal connectors then u have the correct one in that autozone connector u posted (pep boys has those too on the shelf).

Ya, i'm a walbro knockoff pump now and i share your thoughts as i dont like it or need it at all. It wont fit in the bucket/cup so rides w/o. And it draws a ton more current/power as i can see it on my voltmeter - dropped the usual reading. With my mostly stock engine i dont see the need for a high flowing pump even if it was a great deal. So now i have a standby stock replacement pump ready for the next swap. Mounted on my original sending unit BTW.

Hey, if anyone finds a source for a replacement float please post as i have a big crack in my original - but still functional.

cardo0

Ok now i find the entire harness with both ends at summit for 12 bucks: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sgt-fpw1

I just bought a couple myself as the top end (to the sending unit) gets toasted easily. I had to cut and crimp on my original top connector to the replacement harness that fried. Thats why i dont think the high vol pumps are a good idea unless u really need them. They draw more current and maybe to much for the stock wiring harness. My 4 pin connector at the top was fried but it allow the engine to start but not enough fuel press to rev it past 1k rpm.

Anyways the summit/spectra harness is plug and go unless u need ring lugs for the ground and sender terminals. The summit/spectra harness comes with blade terminals for those 2.

Buy extras while u can.
cardo

Paul Bell

iTrader: (9)

Well that is a very nice part at a very nice price! Props to cardo0 for sharing his research.

Gojira94

iTrader: (4)

Great find! I ordered one from PepBoys locally today. Cost me $9.38, delivered to my local store overnight. The S722 pigtail was more expensive by a few dollars.

cardo0

Wow, i had to order 9 to get free shipping. Didnt think anyone else (parts house) would be carrying it.

If u find the float for the sending unit please post or send me a PM. Spectra did not reply to my email for a float replacement and mine is cracked.

Gojira94

iTrader: (4)

I had to repin it, and I decided to reuse the OE end that goes to the male connector on the bottom side of the plate the lines go through. Looks like either would work, but I decided to be safe since the car is 35 minutes away from the house. The one other thing I need to do is splice in the ground side of the sender to the fuel pump ground side. They're a shared connection. I'm pretty good at soldering and have plenty of heat shrink sleeve, so an easy last step. I did check to see if Spetra made one specific to our cars, but they don't and I'm not surprised. But this is a GREAT amd CHEAP way to go if you ever find yourself in this situation. I think it's technically for a ton of cars & trucks from 85-92.

cardo0

No sure what u mean by "repin" it Goji. There is only 3 wires. 1 wire goes to power the pump. another is power for the lvl sending unit and the last is a ground that connects to the lvl sending unit metal. U should be able to match the wires up by just a visual at the sending unit.

Which wires did u have to move?

BTW u need to be careful what material u put inside the tank. The heat shrink needs to be gasoline and alcohol compatible.

Gojira94

iTrader: (4)

I moved the wires in the terminals at both ends to match the old harness. All 3 were in positions different from the old one. Not a surprise or a big deal since the new one wasn't made for our cars. And I reused the factory terminal that connects to the underside of the tank's cap plate.

Also, good point about using the right sleeve. I have the right stuff, but good to mention it for awareness for anyone reading the thread!

Gojira94

iTrader: (4)

Finally going out to fix it. Been gone half of July, too busy in between trips out of town to deal with it.

My only lingering doubt is the polarity of the harness vs the pump. I know from testing the pump which side is which on it. My concern is where it passes to the external harness. The factory wire for pump + is gray, and ground is black. 99.9% certain I've got it right. The only consequence if I've got it wrong is having to pull it back out and swap the pins for the pump.

Here's what I put together:

cardo0

Ok so i looked up the fuel pump wiring in my '94 shop manual. It shows the the pump has a grey wire for power and shares the black wire for a dedicated ground outside the tank with the sending/level unit. Then it shows the sending/level unit uses a purple wire for power and shares the black ground wire going outside the tank. This is also the color code of the wires on the outside of the tank atop the sending unit. Large grey wire for pump pwr, small purple wire for sending/level unit pwr and both share the large black wire as a dedicated ground going outside the tank.

U already have the 2 pin connector wired for the pump so u will need to note/verfy the same color that goes to the positive/hot side of pump connects up to the grey wire on top connector. I believe a DC motor will turn backwards if power is wrong polarity. Take a look at your pump again and from the pix u provided it looks like the molded connector has (-) negative mark on one side. Yes?

Looking at my spectra harness i see two large wires - one black and one red - and those have to be the power and return from the pump. Next are 2 smaller size wires in black and blue. So the blue one would be the sending/level unit power wire (level unit needs very little power) that originally was purple and the other (black wire) grounds to the sending unit such that the metal of the sending unit itself is kept at ground potential.

End result is the pump positive needs to be connected to that grey wire while the sending unit needs to be connected to the purple wire. The remaining black wires need to connect to the black ground wire.

Gorija, my only question is what tool are u using to remove the harness connector pins? How do u get them out. Do u use the same tool as for GM weather pack connectors?

Gojira94

iTrader: (4)

I used a really skinny paper clip to release the side spur that keeps the pin from backing out. You just slide it in the business end and the wire pulls right out from the other side. No need for a $180.00 tool from GM's catalog. the key is to get the clip in between the pin and the connector plastic. There is a little tab of metal next to the square hole of the pin as seen from the female end. That's the side you want- trial and error in about 4-5 seconds and you'll get what I'm talking about.

I verified everything in my pics is correct. It worked as pictured above, no issues with it, had it back together and running in 10 minutes.

KOEO'd it 5-6 times to let the system prime, reading 38PSI on a cheap mechanical gauge. Drives great, no issues. I can hear it prime from the driver's seat, nice to have that reassuring sound back.

I used an Airtex pump- they have mixed reviews, but I know the installation was proper. I ditched the tiny strainer that came with it and used a much larger Delphi sock. We'll see how it goes. Been enjoying the hell out of it the last 2 days.