st21reaper

Hey guys posted a thread about a week and a half ago about doing a turbo motor well I'm not looking to spend that kinda money so I figured Nitrous should save some money. So I'm gonna do a Fully Forged 383 with a set of 200cc Dart Pro 1 Heads that have 2.05 intake and 1.6 exhaust valves and have had a 3 angle valve job done. But don't know if I should buy all the bottom end parts seperate or buy like an Eagle Forged Rotating Assembly? What are your thoughts? Also any other input would be very helpful. The nitrous kit is a Nitrous Outlet Wet Plate Kit with a 200 shot

VoyagerCamaro

Well we can't say much because we don't know much about the motor yet. What Bolt ons do you have? Is the motor still a 350? What compression ratio do you plan on running? How much are you looking to spend max?

waltsfastz

iTrader: (4)

Im working on my Nitrous engine now. I as well was thinking dollar wise about spray over turbo. However nitrous is $6 a pound now. Something to keep in mind. I am using an eagle forged crank and eagle H beam rods. Im running a 3.75 stroke and went with a set on Manley 2618 forged flat tops. Compression will be around 12.8:1. Plus these are a shelf piston so if I junk one I can call and get a single piston. Using Sealed power Hell fire rings and a set of Trick flow MLS head gaskets. I put a set of splayed billet caps on and poured the bottom 2 inches in the water jacket with hardblock. Maybey over kill but Big shots are planned in the future. Top end is a set of stock castings ported by TEA and a custom Cam motion SR cam. Im running a direct port with NOS foggers. Here is a link to my build, Check it out

http://ltxtech.com/forums/showthread...52-My-96-build

st21reaper

Full bolt in car, 4.10 gears, will be a 4 bolt main block, will be a 383 with a 3.75 stroke crank and 6" rods, looking for around 11:8 or 12 to 1 compression, price wise I just don't wanna throw $20gs in just a motor per say. In the future will be a Moser 12 bolt and. Built TH400. But for now it's a stock 10 bolt with 4.10 gears and a built 4l60e with the Monater Transmission kit in it rated for 650hp for now

VoyagerCamaro

Alright, well as for the build if I were you I'd save my money and just buy some AFR 195 heads instead of the darts, From what I've been told a company called "Ohio crank" has good, reliable,strong and inexpensive forged rods. Pistons wise, get a JE flat top piston, preferably a shelf one so if you have to you can just buy one. Keep the stock cam, usually because a good nitrous style cam has a wider LSA and a bigger gap between intake/exhaust duration which isn't very good for NA power. Bearings can't go wrong with clevite.. Cranks on LT1's are pretty much indestructible, get it turned and polished etc. after my build was done id be very weary on the 10 bolt. It isn't going to last forever, it will but just not forever so be expecting it to croak eventually.
Also with the 4.10 gears is it setup mainly for 1/8th mile? And is the transmission have a stalled converter?

st21reaper

Well I already have the heads. Got a good deal on them guy needed money had to get rid of them. It will be ran in the 1/4 more then 1/8 I have a loose 3600 stall converter.

VoyagerCamaro

Well, giving you already have a 3600 stall and 4.10 gears, running a 200shot with that those gears/converter combo in the 1/4 mile you will hit top end before the end. So I guess you will have to go with a bigger cam over the stock cam so you can have more RPMs to make it through the 1/4, but I'd recommend 3.73 gears... If you plan on a 150-200shot at least.

st21reaper

Yea j was gonna go with some kind of custom grind cam most likely. I appreciate the input buddy

93Z2871805

iTrader: (5)

You've been told correct. I've had a few sets in BBC and SBC motors with no issues. My old man is running a set in his 468 currently, they just recently went to 9000 rpm with no issues.

HellTeeOne

A set of AI200s or LE3s will outperform either the Darts or the AFRs, and for less money.

I've heard good things about Ohio products. Forged Mahle Powerpack is also a good piston choice.

Stock cam? You can't be serious. My advice to the OP is to select a cam optimized for NA power output. A 200 shot is not nearly a big enough shot to justify going with a nitrous-oriented grind. Too many folks running 150 and 200 horsepower nitrous shots screw up on cam selection because they think they need a "nitrous cam". If it were a direct-port 300 shot that's a different story, but that's neither here nor there.

The factory crank is very strong, however I think the OP said he is building a stroker.
With a 4L60E, a 3.73 rear gear and 26" tall tire is likely going to be the ticket for a nitrous-fed stroker with a 7k rpm ceiling.

OP, if you want a good example on how to build a good-running street stroker with a A4 drivetrain, check out RamAir95TA's car. It makes 455rwhp, runs consistent high 10s in the mid 120s on motor, and would almost doubtless hit single digits with a 200-hit of gas.

Shownomercy

iTrader: (1)

go with 28s in the rear, much more forgiving to a heavy nitrous launch.

VoyagerCamaro

Well I thought the stock cam would have been fine for a street build nitrous car. There isn't really such thing as a "nitrous cam" like I said before hand, a custom cam for a nitrous build usually requires a wider LSA and a bigger split between intake/exhaust duration which brings NA power way down. I'm on the mobile site I forgot exactly what shot he said was planning on using. But your right I guess a smaller style nitrous shot isn't big enough for a "nitrous cam"

HellTeeOne

Even in a very nitrous heavy application I'd never recommend anyone run a stock cam, particularly in a 383.

And cams with big duration splits don't always kill NA power. I ran a 224/236 cam in my car when I had stock heads. I'm not going to say it was absolutely optimum, but it's output was right there with most of the CC306 cars and actually exceeded nearly every CC503 and Hotcam setup I ever saw. A lot of guys running the AI 226/234 have seen numbers very similar to what mine were back then.

I'll say it again. The OP should look up user RamAir95TA on here and put together something similar to that car. A full-weight street car running 10.80s at 124mph NA with a pretty basic 383 is nothing to sneeze at. A properly tuned 200 shot of nitrous on a setup like that would put him all over the high 9s he says he wants.

st21reaper

HellTeeOne do u know where I can find RamAir95TA's setup?

93Z2871805

iTrader: (5)

Start here:

https://ls1tech.com/forums/lt1-lt4-m...-124-16-a.html

HellTeeOne

Here's his build thread that details the motor build:

https://ls1tech.com/forums/lt1-lt4-m...d-why-not.html

Not saying you would have to exactly duplicate his setup, but that general overview should serve as a solid starting point. And the details on these things matter, a lot. Sweat them. For every stroker setup that runs like his there are 10 that don't go any quicker than mid-11s at 117 or so.