demonsmokr

So, I'm trying to find the stock one, or something better. All i keep finding are just the seals themselves, not the whole housing.

i want to go ahead and replace the housing while I'm doing my oil pan. I've always heard it's better this way to eliminate possible issues with the new seals not seating.

are the rear main housings the same as all SBC, or are they LT1 specific? Is there anything better than stock?

i feel like a total noob asking this question, but I've never had to do a rear main on any of my Chevy cars or trucks yet. Hell, I've never done an oil pan or crank yet either. Have only built up top ends when i was younger. So, this and the internals of the T56 are the final frontiers.

anyways, I'm ready to buy. Should i just get good seals and be done? Get the housing from the dealers or equivalent? Something better aftermarket?

Eta: if my sig still isn't showing, 96 TA, T56, bone stock except headers, brakes.

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

I am using the same factory stock housing in my engine right now. They are pretty robust pieces. Unless someone takes it out and consciously hits it with a hammer I don't see it going out-of-round.

BALLSS

^^^^ and I have always used FelPro gaskets & seals for rear main, rear main adapter and pan.

There is no "better" aftermarket one

demonsmokr

Sounds good to me. I've had leaky seals, but got them plugged using stop leak stuff, so never changed it in my 96 z28. Same thing in my 99 Tahoe, and 3rd gens.

anyways, I'll pick up the felpro stuff from the local O'Reilly and see how she holds.

from the outside, everything looks fine. I don't think previous owner changed the seal.

anything specific to let me know it's stock or not?

thanks guys.

demonsmokr

One more question.

I'm planning on building up another LT1 or SBC to replace this one later on.

while i have the oil pan off, should i go ahead and replace the oil pump, shaft, and pickup? Never had oil pressure issues, only leaks. I'm not leaking from the intake, surprisingly.

Anyone think this would be a waste of money and effort?

I've already been buying my chassis parts, haven't got the k-member because i haven't decided on LT1 or SBC.

anyways, rebuilds oil pump system, or clean and leave it alone?

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

One of the most dependable internal components on an engine is the oil pump. The only thing I would do is if the pump shaft since the stock has a plastic coupling and you can get a steal one as a good replacement for cheap. If it ain't broke...

BALLSS

no need to replace oil pump.....if you do remove the oil pump drive shaft though I would replace it because the stock one has a plastic collar that gets brittle and on "re-install" can crack/break. Untouched it is fine

a solid metal one from ARP or Miloden is around $12....but really no need to touch your oil pump or drive shaft unless you are rebuilding the engine. Then typically people put in the GM white spring in the oil pump and get the solid metal oil pump drive shaft

The pan gasket rarely leaks and also the rear main doesn't either. Typical oil leak sources are intake manifold (rear), front WP gear drive seal. Both those leaks the oil will migrate down the motor and collect at the center of motor front or rear and "appear" to be the pan gasket leaking

Not saying the pan or rear crank gaskets never leak...just noting the more common sources of leaks

demonsmokr

Well, previous owner bottomed out pretty good and dinged the oil pan. So, it's got a slow leak at one of the kinks.

The rear main seal is definitely the leaky culprit. Bell housing is coated in oil, on the inside. After the trans was out, it looks pretty dry above it and under the intake.

I'm honestly just trying to keep this baby lasting until i get the new motor ready to go. The headers i got because the exhaust manifolds were messed up and i didn't feel like messing with them. So they're in the scrap pile right now.

anyways, i need the oil pan, don't want to southern engineer it with JB Weld. Plus, the ding seems like it's right under the oil pickup. I feel safer fixing it, because i am a little hard on it. Better having my oil stuff good, kinda necessary.

so yeah, oil pan gasket isn't leaking, but the oil pan itself is damaged. Rear main is definitely leaking. I'm pretty sure the intake wasn't, but I'll double check tonight when i get back under it.

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

Damn. Did the previous owner take it off a sweet jump? You really have to bottom the **** out of it in order for the ground to make contact. It's either that or he hit something.

BALLSS

if the pan is coming off because of damage hope the motor is out of the car....GM and FelPro pan gaskets are re-useable if you clean all the RTV off of them...but I have always just put on a new FelPro one

demonsmokr

I'll get a picture. I think he hit something, because I'd imagine if he bottomed out somewhere enough to hit the pan, it would've taken a large chunk out of the pan. This is a good sized dent. I'll see if i can get a good shot tonight after dinner.

i plan on doing this without removing the motor completely. I have motor mounts im doing as well, I'm kinda hoping i can get lucky. I've read of people claiming to do it without removing the engine, but they could've used a lift, or just blowing smoke. I'll find out.

I'm not reusing the gaskets. I just don't trust that. The gasket set is cheap enough, just replace it. I'd worry about stretching it or something. New pan gets the new gasket.

leadfoot4

iTrader: (1)

Just an FYI....if you decide to go with the newer "Teflon" rear main seal, clean off the surface of the crank, before you install it, and do NOT put any oil on it, or the crank, during assembly.

And, as has been previously mentioned, go with the oil pump drive shaft that has the metal collar. It's inexpensive insurance.

BALLSS

rotate engine so # 6 is TDC. That gives more clearance to slide pan off

also remove oil level sensor first