LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

Opinions on this cam

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Old 03-04-2007, 07:38 PM
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JUICED96Z
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Have this ready to go in.

Basic combo is cam/3200 stall (may send in for a restall)/4.10/ported heads and intake/full bolt-ons, enough N20 to make 500rwhp. Stickies, blah blah blah

Intake .480 lift 285 duration, @.050 numbers posted below (before the 1.65 rockers so more like .525 lift I think)
Exhaust .480 lift 286 duration
116 is the centerline
2,200-5,500RPM (should go up I bet with the heads and all)

Super mid-range performance. New lobe design incorporates faster ramps for
improved timing events. Cylinder heads, manifold, free flowing exhaust,
manual transmission or 4-speed automatics with low gears recommended.

Last edited by JUICED96Z; 03-04-2007 at 08:22 PM.
Old 03-04-2007, 07:56 PM
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That got a wicked duration...sounds like a Blower Cam.
Old 03-04-2007, 08:15 PM
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merv, these are not the "usual" cam specs the durations are "advertized" rather than the usually posted .050 numbers and he posted the centerline which is different from the usually posted LSA.

For example the "baby" Crane cam 210/224 112 cams could be posted as 272/286 with peak exhaust lift at 117 intake at 107.


With the 1.65s you are looking at .528 lift, with the ported heads I would call that still low.
Would be nice too have the .050 specs on this cam.
Even without that though I think you would be a whole hell of a lot of spray to hit 500rwhp.
Old 03-04-2007, 08:19 PM
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JUICED96Z
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Intake is .222@.050
Exhaust is .226@.050

I do know its a small cam.

Its a erson cam with a grind number RH-282-5 (last number is a 10 for LT1 cars but you have to look it up under the 5)

Realize it will take a lot of spray. One of teh reasons I picked the cam is because it makes sick bottom and mid range power. Don't trust my bottom end past 6k RPM. Will just spray it to make up for it.

Everyone has told me it will love the 4.10's since its a bottom to mid range cam.

Last edited by JUICED96Z; 03-04-2007 at 08:29 PM.
Old 03-04-2007, 08:51 PM
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Wait a minute is it actually a 116 LSA???
If so I know someone who ran that cam on spray and went no faster than he had with a GMPP 845 cam or Crane 210/224. It was several tenths slower NA and a tenth slower on the bottle.
One of those great on paper bad in practice things.
Old 03-04-2007, 08:52 PM
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Yea, I see that now. I am used to looking at the regular .050 specs.
Old 03-04-2007, 09:02 PM
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Lobe center line is 116 says 8 degrees advance next to it.

I just realized on their site is says for 92-95 LT1's whats the difference with them between the 95's and 96's with the cams?

Really thinking about ditching this cam.

Last edited by JUICED96Z; 03-04-2007 at 09:10 PM.
Old 03-04-2007, 09:15 PM
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Someone correct me if im wrong, but I think that is just the dowel pin.
Old 03-04-2007, 09:26 PM
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Originally Posted by camzaro28
Someone correct me if im wrong, but I think that is just the dowel pin.

Ok, thats what I was told by them and I have two pins.
Old 03-04-2007, 09:38 PM
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yes the dowels are longer on 96 up due to the change in the opti
Old 03-04-2007, 09:42 PM
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I wouldn't use it.

116 with 8 degrees of adavance? Why not just get an apropiate camshaft to start with. Read this: http://www.babcox.com/editorial/ar/eb90252.htm.

What brand 1.65's are you getting? because I was looking for 1.7's and could hardly find anything under $250 but CAT junk.
Old 03-04-2007, 09:48 PM
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Originally Posted by The stunningman
I wouldn't use it.

116 with 8 degrees of adavance? Why not just get an apropiate camshaft to start with. Read this: http://www.babcox.com/editorial/ar/eb90252.htm.

What brand 1.65's are you getting? because I was looking for 1.7's and could hardly find anything under $250 but CAT junk.

In short I let someone talk me out of a custom grind......

Is there a way to test your valve springs to see what lift they are good to? Any way of telling what degree the locks are by looking at them? The same guy ported and built my heads. Heads are amazing though LOL.

Thanks for the link.

Can't remember what brand rockers I have, they cost me $250, that was his cost, no mark up. Aluminum body.
Old 03-04-2007, 10:04 PM
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10 degree locks are way fatter than stock 7 degree locks. Take one spring (or the pair if double) to a shop check for coil bind height subtract that number from the install height then give yourself .050 extra room that should be the max lift for the springs.

AKA
1.800 installed height
1.150 coil bind height (coils stack flat)
---------
.650
-.050
------
.600 MAX lift springs

Last edited by The stunningman; 03-04-2007 at 10:11 PM.
Old 03-04-2007, 10:05 PM
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Ok thanks...
Old 03-05-2007, 08:39 PM
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I honestly dont think nitrous cams are really worth it, get a cam that makes good motor power and is pretty decent for spray...


Ive seen some nitrous cams go just a lil faster than a cam for motor, not worth it to me.....depends on how its setup
Old 03-05-2007, 09:05 PM
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You wouldn't catch me running that cam. And just because valve springs are good to xxx lift doesn't mean they have enough spring pressure to control the valves.
Old 03-05-2007, 11:02 PM
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Originally Posted by slick1851
I honestly dont think nitrous cams are really worth it, get a cam that makes good motor power and is pretty decent for spray...


Ive seen some nitrous cams go just a lil faster than a cam for motor, not worth it to me.....depends on how its setup

I think nitrous cams are only worth it for monstor 2 stage cars, like 4-500 shot cars.

Cam and springs are up for sale
Old 03-05-2007, 11:03 PM
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Originally Posted by JUICED96Z
I think nitrous cams are only worth it for monstor 2 stage cars, like 4-500 shot cars.

Cam and springs are up for sale

Yeah thats what I was trying to get at, dont waste your time unless your hitting the car big and hard....



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