Shackleford

iTrader: (12)

I'm just wondering if this would be an upgrade. Are the C4s more reliable and everything?

Fastbird93

iTrader: (10)

Nope. If I remember right, the C4's got higher HP/TQ ratings from their more efficient induction and exhaust setups.

B4CZR2

I wouldn't ever want to install headers on one. The motors look pretty wedged in there without any room to work

Shackleford

iTrader: (12)

You're saying nope it wouldn't be an upgrade to get a C4? You're telling me the build quality/ride isn't better?

Fastbird93

iTrader: (10)

My bad. I mis-read it. I thought you were talking about a motor swap. Go with the vette.

Shackleford

iTrader: (12)

What do you think about this?

https://ls1tech.com/forums/texas-members/727233-fs-1993-40th-anniv-corvette.html

Formula350

iTrader: (3)

The real HP/TQ are the same from LT1 to LT1. The only real difference is 93 (FBody at least) has the bigger cam. I made a thread about Vette and FBody LT1. The only power difference is from the exhaust. Just like the dual-cat change in the FBody's raising it up 10HP. So, stick with the C4's factory motor.

Shackleford

iTrader: (12)

Dude, I'm talking about a car-to-car comparison. I didn't think my post was very ambiguous.

Formula350

iTrader: (3)

Ah. Well, my buddy thinks my 93 will walk his 94 since I got a chip in it now All the LT1 Vettes have inflated power numbers. So between the two you might get around 10more HP from the exhaust, but they weigh around the same. So a M6 to M6 race you'll see about an equal run. If you DO get a Vette, make sure it's a M6, so it'll have the Dana 44 instead of the 36. They're tougher, so it's a better car to start with to mod. You'll plant a little better with the IRS compared to the FBody's solid axle.

As for that one you linked, well. Lots of miles, but 150K is still alright for an LT1. It doesn't say what trans it uses, but I'd assume M6 due to it being Anniv Ed. So for $5500, it's not too bad. It's really a toss up for what you want to do I guess.

Sorry for the confusion earlier >_>

Shackleford

iTrader: (12)

Well, it does say auto in the post. Do the automatics have the 4L60E? My '95 Z28 has 190K miles on it.

Formula350

iTrader: (3)

Whoops didn't see that haha I was looking for trans type instead of "Auto". STRIKE TWO for me lol

Anyways, the Vettes were always ahead a bit when it came to the new stuff. TPI in 85, LT1 in 92, LS1 in 97. If they continue that, it'll probably have the 4L60E, if not, it's the 4L60 like mine (700R4). If it's MAF, it's a good bet it's the new computer setup and running the 4L60E then. A sure way to tell though is if it has a kickdown, which the E doesn't use. That's assuming the owner doesn't now. I sure hope he would though. I still say stick with the M6.

camar0corey

iTrader: (22)

Its all in preference, but I don't think if I ever got a Vette it would be a auto, think that kills the sporting intentions of that car. I just don't think its natural.

aboatguy

94 gets the 4l60E, sequential fuel injection. 95 gets J55 brakes, vented opti and a lot of minor refinement. 96= OBD II and LT4 in the M6. C4 weather stripping and interior components are pricey so check out the condition of the interior and rubber before making a decision. Some C4s were beat on pretty hard so go for a test ride and if its a rattle trap, with worn weather stripping and torn seats PASS since those items may cost more to fix than an engine.

Finding a good vette at a good price is easy, however, finding a good vette for cheap usually costs more in the long run.


The problem with Vette aftermarket VS Fbody aftermarket is production numbers and the corvette tax. The volume difference makes all the difference in pricing. I know that there seems to be inexpensive options for the C4; however, check out the Corvette Forum and you'll find numerous threads on redoing stuff due to shoddy products.


Mechanical mods are relatively the same cost as F-body mods and you start with a better handling lighter platform.

Mike

aboatguy

In my opinion there's tons of room especially when compared to the F-body.





Shoot I can pull my engine without removing the hood, radiator, or suspension .

aboatguy

I agree, with the exception of the 92 corvette lt1 the corvette LT1s have the same TQ and HP ratings. Although the later C4 LT1 owners seem to get better fuel economy. I used to average in the low 30s on the highway before I started modding.

I agree that the same year F-body LT1 and Corvette LT1 are basically the same and the difference is in the better cold air intake and freeflowing dual exhaust.

Most of the A4 corvettes are saddled with 2.59 rearends so swapping in a rear from a M-6 car provides a huge bump in performance.

MIke

Formula350

iTrader: (3)

Gotta remember though, you need the WHOLE rear (not just the carrier, the housing too) since it's a A4 Dana 36 to M6 Dana 44.

My buddy averaged those MPG coming home from Oregon where he bought it, to here in Minnesota. Until he reached about North Dakota and the E85 fuel was being used. Our E85 sucks so much. I wish I could try a tank of West coast gas, to actually get the performance my car should. We have 110, so I suppose a 1/2 and 1/2 is as close as I'd get.

aboatguy

The D44 swap is very simple swap you need the D44 rear, bat wing(rear of the diff), C-beam, and driveshaft from the donor car.

The D44 is about an inch longer than the D36 so the C-beam and driveshaft are shorter.
You can reuse the rest of your IRS.

I completed it in an afternoon and most of that time was spent removing all of the rear bushings and replacing them with polys



Mike