Battery Relocation..Progress Thread
09-08-2008, 09:40 PM
#1
Battery Relocation..Progress Thread Here is a thread on my Battery Relocation. I took all my posts throughout this thread that have progress pics, and put them here at the beginning so it would be easier to see.
To start I got ahold of a Cable from an Amp Kit, but after researching that and finding out that basically that wouldn't be good enough, I changed it to some 4GA Welding Cable.
I have it here to the Distro Block and it works perfectly.
Here's the Battery mounted in the Car..I still have to get it in a box, but this is the basic setup.
I also wired in a Jumper off of the Ground so it hits both the Chassis and the Frame Rails..
Here it is finished..I made the box for it. I now have a 2ga Cable where the braided strap is in the pic here, that was there for testing purposes..
Here's what I did to fill in the empty Battery spot in the Engine Bay.
This came from a S-10. I also relocated that ground on the Strut Bolt to the Frame Rail where the stock Heater Core Lines bolted to..
To start I got ahold of a Cable from an Amp Kit, but after researching that and finding out that basically that wouldn't be good enough, I changed it to some 4GA Welding Cable.
I have it here to the Distro Block and it works perfectly.
Here's the Battery mounted in the Car..I still have to get it in a box, but this is the basic setup.
I also wired in a Jumper off of the Ground so it hits both the Chassis and the Frame Rails..
Here it is finished..I made the box for it. I now have a 2ga Cable where the braided strap is in the pic here, that was there for testing purposes..
Here's what I did to fill in the empty Battery spot in the Engine Bay.
This came from a S-10. I also relocated that ground on the Strut Bolt to the Frame Rail where the stock Heater Core Lines bolted to..
Last edited by the_merv; 08-11-2009 at 11:25 PM.
09-08-2008, 09:49 PM
#2
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Melrose, MA
Posts: 1,196
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I like how clean that looks, might be one in my near future too...
Let me know what the total cost is and what you used, now would be a good time to save some pics for a nice write up Merv
Let me know what the total cost is and what you used, now would be a good time to save some pics for a nice write up Merv
09-08-2008, 09:49 PM
#3
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Decatur, TN (N-W of Athens)
Posts: 7,564
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes
on
3 Posts
WHAT IS THIS ATROCITY!? 
You MIGHT want to switch to 'real' wire later on, with thicker gauge strands than what those audio power cables seem to offer. Probably isn't needed, but if factory people do it, and aftermarket people do it, there must be some reasoning behind it
You MIGHT want to switch to 'real' wire later on, with thicker gauge strands than what those audio power cables seem to offer. Probably isn't needed, but if factory people do it, and aftermarket people do it, there must be some reasoning behind it
09-08-2008, 10:18 PM
#5
That's the new plastic Intake LT1.. you've never heard of it?
I'm going to see how long that wire holds up.. from what a few people have said, it's actually the finer wire that works better.. it's transfers the current better.
From what some people have been saying, I'm going to get something else..
I'm going to see how long that wire holds up.. from what a few people have said, it's actually the finer wire that works better.. it's transfers the current better.
From what some people have been saying, I'm going to get something else..
Last edited by the_merv; 12-17-2008 at 07:34 AM.
09-09-2008, 07:35 AM
#6
A long run like that carrying a heavy load is likely to melt at the worst possible time.
http://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm
FWIW, a 6A EWP was able to melt 18ga test wires on my workbench in a matter of minutes.
Imagine what the entire car's draw will do to 6ga.
09-09-2008, 07:49 AM
#7
This is what I was thinking about..
The only real strain through that Wire is when the Battery is getting the hit when I first start the Car. After that and once it's running, the Alternator is pretty much running everything. As far as accessories go, I don't really have anything except the Engine, Headlights, and 2 door Speakers with the Radio.
I'm going to make the Ground/Neg terminal off of the Battery as short as possible and stick it pretty much on the frame of the Chassis in the back area. I have an extra braided Grounding strap for that already.
I took it out and I'm going to see what else I can find..I don't want to put out my own car..lol
The only real strain through that Wire is when the Battery is getting the hit when I first start the Car. After that and once it's running, the Alternator is pretty much running everything. As far as accessories go, I don't really have anything except the Engine, Headlights, and 2 door Speakers with the Radio.
I'm going to make the Ground/Neg terminal off of the Battery as short as possible and stick it pretty much on the frame of the Chassis in the back area. I have an extra braided Grounding strap for that already.
I took it out and I'm going to see what else I can find..I don't want to put out my own car..lol
Last edited by the_merv; 12-10-2008 at 08:26 AM.
Trending Topics
09-09-2008, 02:58 PM
#14
10 Second Club
iTrader: (14)
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: brimfield, illinois
Posts: 686
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Did you put a pull switch in the back on the battery to cut the power? I was thinking about putting my battery in the back too but didn't know what the tracks would be like if I didn't have the exterior switch in the back thru the bumper.
09-09-2008, 02:59 PM
#15
Actually using 2 or 0 guage would be best. Large guage wire (assuming the wire has a high strand count and a good OFC rating) allows the current to flow much easier. Current and a good ground are the main objectives of a good working trunk mount system. If your getting clickity, click you have additional problems to work out of your system. BTW, good job on your install
09-09-2008, 04:36 PM
#17
12 Second Club
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Georgetown, Texas
Posts: 322
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I used 2 ga. Positive wire to the starter. 0 ga. For the ground in the rear to the seatbelt bolt. I tested it and I am getting a good ground. Then I have a 2 ga. Ground from the motor to subframe and a 2 ga. From motor to body. Plus the original ground for the battery in the front is grounded. I used like 18 ft I think and now I think I am going to go back with 0 ga. For the positive. I was just saying 4 ga may not be enough.
09-09-2008, 06:43 PM
#18
You don't want your Neg Wire to the Chassis to be more than 24" long.. I was reading that somewhere. I'm using a 12" Grounding Strap for the Neg Terminal.
Tomorrow I'm putting in the Battery. A friend of mine has a Coolant overflow Resivoir out of a S-10 laying around his shop, I'm using that to replace what was under the Battery, it will fill in that hole nicely..
I don't see that being a problem unless you are actually running in sanctioned classes for competition.. but I could be wrong..
Tomorrow I'm putting in the Battery. A friend of mine has a Coolant overflow Resivoir out of a S-10 laying around his shop, I'm using that to replace what was under the Battery, it will fill in that hole nicely..
I don't see that being a problem unless you are actually running in sanctioned classes for competition.. but I could be wrong..
Last edited by the_merv; 09-09-2008 at 06:48 PM.
09-09-2008, 07:10 PM
#19
Launching!
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: kc
Posts: 254
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
At KCIR they told me that you only have to have the cut off switch if your racing for NHRA points. Otherwise they will let it slide. But that was before the new ownership.
