FYI on Adjustment for the Tick Perf. MC
10-20-2008, 06:27 AM
#1
FYI on Adjustment for the Tick Perf. MC Just wanted to give a quick FYI for everyone who has installed or will install. This great unit. The instructions are correct, to adjust it not at the same height but rather below the brake pedal. Then to adjust it out accordingly.
Well My fluid is still mint but when 1st doing the job w/ gravity bleeding the system, the car power shifted great and the clutch test was fine. After putting 500 miles on it, I think it finally worked all air out and ran through a few heat cycles the CLutch pedal needed to be moved out.
Once I did it at the track, the pedal is a little past the brake pedal but the engagement point is high, Which I love.
So basically play with the set up.
If you put the car in 1st gear, on level, flat surfact, raise rpm to redline and if the car doesnt move, its fine. If it does then you need to re adjust, or rebleed.
Btw, I love this MC!
Well My fluid is still mint but when 1st doing the job w/ gravity bleeding the system, the car power shifted great and the clutch test was fine. After putting 500 miles on it, I think it finally worked all air out and ran through a few heat cycles the CLutch pedal needed to be moved out.
Once I did it at the track, the pedal is a little past the brake pedal but the engagement point is high, Which I love.
So basically play with the set up.
If you put the car in 1st gear, on level, flat surfact, raise rpm to redline and if the car doesnt move, its fine. If it does then you need to re adjust, or rebleed.
Btw, I love this MC!
10-21-2008, 09:09 PM
#3
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Here is an important piece of information. Mine is adjust exactly as he explained, slightly higher than the clutch stop. Raising the pedal any higher than this does no improve the performance of the Master, it just changes the pedal position and can damage your clutch.
This was posted by John @ Tick :
If you have adjusted the master out to the point that it doesn't go all the way down to the stop, all you've really done is pre-loaded the tob against the pressure plate. The pedal can only come up so high, the upper limit of the pedal will then act as a stop and further adjustment will just be pressing the pressure plate. By doing this, you may end up with a slipping clutch pretty soon because you are essentially riding the clutch all the time.
I'd adjust it to where it just barely touches the lower stop on the pedal assembly. By doing this, you've achieved all the stroke you can get, but you're not "riding" the clutch. If you're not reaching the stop on the pedal assembly, the piston in the cylinder is actually acting as the stop. You're not moving more fluid, you've just preloaded the system which makes the engagement point seem a bit closer to the top.
This was posted by John @ Tick :
If you have adjusted the master out to the point that it doesn't go all the way down to the stop, all you've really done is pre-loaded the tob against the pressure plate. The pedal can only come up so high, the upper limit of the pedal will then act as a stop and further adjustment will just be pressing the pressure plate. By doing this, you may end up with a slipping clutch pretty soon because you are essentially riding the clutch all the time.
I'd adjust it to where it just barely touches the lower stop on the pedal assembly. By doing this, you've achieved all the stroke you can get, but you're not "riding" the clutch. If you're not reaching the stop on the pedal assembly, the piston in the cylinder is actually acting as the stop. You're not moving more fluid, you've just preloaded the system which makes the engagement point seem a bit closer to the top.
10-21-2008, 10:49 PM
#4
That post is mainly dealing with adjusting a Ram cylinder. 
With our cylinder you will never need to position the pedal all the way out, and I'm not even sure its physically possible with our rods legnth. Our cylinder is capable of pushing so much more fluid than the ram, it would be possible to actually over-extend the pressure plate fingers causing damage if the pedal is adjusted too high.
Everyone seems to be doing a good job adjusting their Tick Masters so far. Just adjust it low to start out and gradually work your way out until it releases at high rpms/redline just as blackscreamin described.
Thanks again for all the positive feedback guys!
With our cylinder you will never need to position the pedal all the way out, and I'm not even sure its physically possible with our rods legnth. Our cylinder is capable of pushing so much more fluid than the ram, it would be possible to actually over-extend the pressure plate fingers causing damage if the pedal is adjusted too high. Everyone seems to be doing a good job adjusting their Tick Masters so far. Just adjust it low to start out and gradually work your way out until it releases at high rpms/redline just as blackscreamin described.
Thanks again for all the positive feedback guys!
10-22-2008, 07:49 AM
#5
Yeah, Aaron, your car was moving like crazy on that first run at the track. I didn't get a chance to test it after I made the adjustment for you because I wanted to get another run in and you said you were gonna test it, but it sounds like it worked well. If you're still experiencing any issues with it, I'd really like to get it over to my house and do another bleed and adjustment if necessary. If it's really working fine right now, then I guess we can skip that, but I never really saw or heard the results after the adjustment.
Last edited by PewterScreaminMach; 10-22-2008 at 08:25 AM.
10-22-2008, 08:35 AM
#6
Yeah, Aaron, your car was moving like crazy on that first run at the track. I didn't get a chance to test it after I made the adjustment for you because I wanted to get another run in and you said you were gonna test it, but it sounds like it worked well. If you're still experiencing any issues with it, I'd really like to get it over to my house and do another bleed and adjustment if necessary. If it's really working fine right now, then I guess we can skip that, but I never really saw or heard the results after the adjustment.
In the lanes the thing stood dead still.
The run you lined me up it was mint as well as the 3rd and final.
My thanks go to you joe to helping out on the adjustment.
10-22-2008, 02:31 PM
#8
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That post is mainly dealing with adjusting a Ram cylinder. With our cylinder you will never need to position the pedal all the way out, and I'm not even sure its physically possible with our rods legnth. Our cylinder is capable of pushing so much more fluid than the ram, it would be possible to actually over-extend the pressure plate fingers causing damage if the pedal is adjusted too high.
Everyone seems to be doing a good job adjusting their Tick Masters so far. Just adjust it low to start out and gradually work your way out until it releases at high rpms/redline just as blackscreamin described.
Thanks again for all the positive feedback guys!
With our cylinder you will never need to position the pedal all the way out, and I'm not even sure its physically possible with our rods legnth. Our cylinder is capable of pushing so much more fluid than the ram, it would be possible to actually over-extend the pressure plate fingers causing damage if the pedal is adjusted too high. Everyone seems to be doing a good job adjusting their Tick Masters so far. Just adjust it low to start out and gradually work your way out until it releases at high rpms/redline just as blackscreamin described.
Thanks again for all the positive feedback guys!
I am curious however about the point at which the tick "bottoms out."
I can adjust my Tick(lengthen the rod) to bottom out before it actually reaches the clutch stop and so that the clutch pedal barely contacts the "clutch in sensor" at the bottom of stroke that allows the car to start.
Am I correct in saying that raising the pedal position beyond the point that the cylinder inside the master is acting as the clutch stop does not do anything other than raise the engage point higher?
10-22-2008, 03:22 PM
#9
Good to know,
I am curious however about the point at which the tick "bottoms out."
I can adjust my Tick(lengthen the rod) to bottom out before it actually reaches the clutch stop and so that the clutch pedal barely contacts the "clutch in sensor" at the bottom of stroke that allows the car to start.
Am I correct in saying that raising the pedal position beyond the point that the cylinder inside the master is acting as the clutch stop does not do anything other than raise the engage point higher?
I am curious however about the point at which the tick "bottoms out."
I can adjust my Tick(lengthen the rod) to bottom out before it actually reaches the clutch stop and so that the clutch pedal barely contacts the "clutch in sensor" at the bottom of stroke that allows the car to start.
Am I correct in saying that raising the pedal position beyond the point that the cylinder inside the master is acting as the clutch stop does not do anything other than raise the engage point higher?
Our cylinder has slightly over 1" of stroke. If the pedal is adjusted out to the point that you're barely reaching the clutch in switch you really won't benefit from adjusting it out farther.
10-22-2008, 05:54 PM
#10
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