6sp Powershifting Issues, need advice?
11-16-2009, 09:17 AM
#1
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6sp Powershifting Issues, need advice? I am having some trouble powershifting into 3rd gear. The 1-2 is fine but the 2-3 is not working. I can quickly shift it into 3rd and it's fine but during WOT shift it feels as if it is engaged but there is nothing there, just hits the limiter.
Tranny feels great in all areas, no wines, no clunks, no grinds etc.. Maybe a hydraulics issue? I have the ls7 clutch kit with upgraded hydraulics? Maybe just the difference in the weather down in Ga, has been in the 90s now in the 60s?
Open to suggestions, thanks in advance!
Tranny feels great in all areas, no wines, no clunks, no grinds etc.. Maybe a hydraulics issue? I have the ls7 clutch kit with upgraded hydraulics? Maybe just the difference in the weather down in Ga, has been in the 90s now in the 60s?
Open to suggestions, thanks in advance!
11-16-2009, 09:24 AM
#2
I bet the clutch is sticking, stock hyraulics are infamous for this (which is why someone NEEDS to come out with a fork or cable actuated clutch.
Make sure that the fluid isn't burnt/black, if it is try changing it, if that doesn't do it.. the tick master is probably your only bet to really get it to work right.
Surprised that ls7 clutch is taking the abuse you're throwing at it, when it goes (if you race the car alot which I think you do) I'd look into once of those softloc clutches, or a dual disk setup, several are available now.
Make sure that the fluid isn't burnt/black, if it is try changing it, if that doesn't do it.. the tick master is probably your only bet to really get it to work right.
Surprised that ls7 clutch is taking the abuse you're throwing at it, when it goes (if you race the car alot which I think you do) I'd look into once of those softloc clutches, or a dual disk setup, several are available now.
11-16-2009, 05:02 PM
#6
Nope, fluid gets hot after 1 shift then it starts acting up. The entire clutch systems in these cars is absolute rubbish compared to a real race clutch type setup. These cars (as all are now) are designed for an 80 lb weak girl to drive, so a still pedal just won't fly to be sold on a showroom.
Side effect, is that we're stuck with absolute JUNK from the factory, and even the tick setup, as nice as that is IMO is still a band-aid hydraulic problem waiting to happen.
Fork, or cable. Period, end of discussion. Only 2 ways a clutch should be operated.
Side effect, is that we're stuck with absolute JUNK from the factory, and even the tick setup, as nice as that is IMO is still a band-aid hydraulic problem waiting to happen.
Fork, or cable. Period, end of discussion. Only 2 ways a clutch should be operated.
11-16-2009, 05:23 PM
#8
you and 50 thousland other f body guys.
Why noone has come up with one yet, I have NO idea. What would be even better... would be an SFI approved bellhousing, and a fork actuated clutch setup that goes alogn with it.
That would sell... if anyone is reading this stuff.....
Why noone has come up with one yet, I have NO idea. What would be even better... would be an SFI approved bellhousing, and a fork actuated clutch setup that goes alogn with it.
That would sell... if anyone is reading this stuff.....
11-16-2009, 05:47 PM
#10
[QUOTE=JL ws-6;12508666]. What would be even better... would be an SFI approved bellhousing, and a fork actuated clutch setup that goes alogn with it.
QUOTE]
I would love to see that.
QUOTE]
I would love to see that.
11-16-2009, 06:20 PM
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JL has done it again, proper diagnosis on the clutch fluid. Changed the fluid this afternoon, drove the car for 6 or 7 miles slowly through the gears then let it rip 3 or 4 times and powershifted the 2-3 with no problem. The fluid didn't really look bad in the reserve but once I emptied it I was ashamed. Won't let that happen again, thanks again guys for the replies.
