trouble getting into 1st gear at a standstill
11-07-2010, 07:14 AM
#1
trouble getting into 1st gear at a standstill What causes this? Its only occasional, but is getting more and more prevalent. When I press the clutch in, and try to get it in first, it feels like its telling me no.
Sometimes it goes in smoothly, sometimes it sticks like mentioned above, and other times it grinds a tad and the whole car jerks from it. The last part is rare, but it does happen.
Any ideas?
The car is an 04 cts-v btw.
Sometimes it goes in smoothly, sometimes it sticks like mentioned above, and other times it grinds a tad and the whole car jerks from it. The last part is rare, but it does happen.
Any ideas?
The car is an 04 cts-v btw.
11-07-2010, 09:37 AM
#3
it also does it in reverse, and if I put it in 4th then 1st, it seems to release it.
I'm mainly concerned about it being a nad synchro, but you seem to be sure its not, which is still sort of a relief. I can put a slave in, not a synchro.
You think its worth checking my trans fluid?
I'm mainly concerned about it being a nad synchro, but you seem to be sure its not, which is still sort of a relief. I can put a slave in, not a synchro.
You think its worth checking my trans fluid?
11-11-2010, 12:00 AM
#4
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Im not too familiar with these specific models, but clutch pedal adjustment sounds like the issue to me.
Do you have free play on the pedal before it feels like its starting to move the slave?
Do you have free play on the pedal before it feels like its starting to move the slave?
11-11-2010, 12:27 AM
#5
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I had a similar issue. It would sometimes feel like it wanted to grind when I was slowing down to a stop sign and putting it in first. I bleed it and it felt 10x better and smooth. The clutch was not fully disengaging.
There is no adjustability in the factory hydraulic system.
11-13-2010, 12:05 PM
#6
Man I just bled the clutch like 3 times and still have the issue. A lot of air came out, though. I ran out of fluid last year around this time and it never ran low again to this day. No clue why.
On the master, the eye is oval shaped instead of round, and there's 1-2 inches of pedal movement before I even start to push the pin. Do you think this could be an issue?
On the master, the eye is oval shaped instead of round, and there's 1-2 inches of pedal movement before I even start to push the pin. Do you think this could be an issue?
11-19-2010, 06:54 AM
#7
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=04NYbCM6DiU
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U5VTyxB5zaM
this is what i have post-bleed.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U5VTyxB5zaM
this is what i have post-bleed.
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11-19-2010, 06:58 AM
#8
mine does the same, figuring it's the master cylinder going out (high load shifts are next to impossible also). I'll hopefully get a chance to install my tick master this weekend.
11-19-2010, 02:24 PM
#10
well a bit of an update, i got pissed off on the way home and just kept pushing through the grind sound, and it went right on sans the grinding.
if i push the car into 1st gear with the clutch out, it should stop me from pushing and push the car slowly forward.
why does it go right through into the grind sound? i wonder if my clutch is stuck in the middle.
if i push the car into 1st gear with the clutch out, it should stop me from pushing and push the car slowly forward.
why does it go right through into the grind sound? i wonder if my clutch is stuck in the middle.
11-20-2010, 07:00 PM
#13
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Sounds like a hydro problem that has led to a syncro problem. If the clutch has been dragging it can cause a lot of wear on the syncro. First gear will grind because the syncro is trying to spin up first but its wore so it cant. Its trying to spin up first gear because the clutch isn't fully disengaging.
Also, its hard to get all the air out. I'd bleed it some more and then bleed it some more. Once you get the clutch to disengage fully, the grind should subside however; the damage is already done. You may still have a light grind if you push the clutch in and immediately try to go into gear. Push the clutch in and give the trans time to wind down and you shouldn't have a grind if the clutch is disengaging like it should.
Also, its hard to get all the air out. I'd bleed it some more and then bleed it some more. Once you get the clutch to disengage fully, the grind should subside however; the damage is already done. You may still have a light grind if you push the clutch in and immediately try to go into gear. Push the clutch in and give the trans time to wind down and you shouldn't have a grind if the clutch is disengaging like it should.
11-20-2010, 07:34 PM
#15
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What causes this? Its only occasional, but is getting more and more prevalent. When I press the clutch in, and try to get it in first, it feels like its telling me no.
Sometimes it goes in smoothly, sometimes it sticks like mentioned above, and other times it grinds a tad and the whole car jerks from it. The last part is rare, but it does happen.
Any ideas?
The car is an 04 cts-v btw.
Sometimes it goes in smoothly, sometimes it sticks like mentioned above, and other times it grinds a tad and the whole car jerks from it. The last part is rare, but it does happen.
Any ideas?
The car is an 04 cts-v btw.
11-24-2010, 05:37 PM
#16
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Sounds like the friction material on the synchro has de-bonded, my 02 Z had the same problem in 1st and started acting up in 2nd before I pulled it and stuffed new syncros in. Factory clutch, factory hyd, failures occured between 18k-26k original miles. Let us know what you find, and Good Luck! 
11-24-2010, 10:42 PM
#18
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I'm having this same problem after I did my A4-M6 swap. If I pump the clutch pedal it won't do it as badly, which tells me it's a hydraulic issue.
Bleeding this thing is a real pain for same reason, so I drilled a hole in the tunnel so I can do it myself without help.
I have the same issue with the actual pedal assembly and the master cylinder arm having play in them. Do you guys with stock M6's have this "issue"? What I mean is, the pin in the clutch pedal arm is like 1/2" and the hole in the master cyl arm is like 3/4", so when you push the clutch in, it moves for about 2" before it starts engaging the actual master cyl. Is this a design thing?
Bleeding this thing is a real pain for same reason, so I drilled a hole in the tunnel so I can do it myself without help.
I have the same issue with the actual pedal assembly and the master cylinder arm having play in them. Do you guys with stock M6's have this "issue"? What I mean is, the pin in the clutch pedal arm is like 1/2" and the hole in the master cyl arm is like 3/4", so when you push the clutch in, it moves for about 2" before it starts engaging the actual master cyl. Is this a design thing?
