Sticking clutch pedal, need recommendation for slave cylinder
03-26-2012, 08:59 PM
#1
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Sticking clutch pedal, need recommendation for slave cylinder The time has come to replace the slave cylinder on the '99 Z28 six speed. The clutch pedal is remaining on the floor after initial warmup.
It is my understanding that this is not an unusual problem on these cars. I would like to be able to replace it with something that will have some longevity. Someone suggested that the slave cylinder for the Corvette is a solution. Or perhaps there is a nice aftermarket item that addresses this weakness?
Suggestions greatly appreciated and thank you,
Randy
It is my understanding that this is not an unusual problem on these cars. I would like to be able to replace it with something that will have some longevity. Someone suggested that the slave cylinder for the Corvette is a solution. Or perhaps there is a nice aftermarket item that addresses this weakness?
Suggestions greatly appreciated and thank you,
Randy
03-27-2012, 06:46 AM
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Stock replacement?? My exposure to LS1 discussions are limited but it seems to be a fairly common problem to have a sticking clutch pedal in these cars. It would seem that the stock cylinder is troublesome and not up to the task over time.
I would have thought that someone had come up with a replacement that was perhaps a little more robust.
Randy
I would have thought that someone had come up with a replacement that was perhaps a little more robust.
Randy
03-27-2012, 02:30 PM
#6
The time has come to replace the slave cylinder on the '99 Z28 six speed. The clutch pedal is remaining on the floor after initial warmup.
It is my understanding that this is not an unusual problem on these cars. I would like to be able to replace it with something that will have some longevity. Someone suggested that the slave cylinder for the Corvette is a solution. Or perhaps there is a nice aftermarket item that addresses this weakness?
Suggestions greatly appreciated and thank you,
Randy
It is my understanding that this is not an unusual problem on these cars. I would like to be able to replace it with something that will have some longevity. Someone suggested that the slave cylinder for the Corvette is a solution. Or perhaps there is a nice aftermarket item that addresses this weakness?
Suggestions greatly appreciated and thank you,
Randy
Tick Performance Adjustable Clutch Master Cylinder
***FYI it would be smart to go ahead and replace the slave cylinder too, for that added insurance, which we also have:
GM Slave Cylinder & Throwout Bearing for LS1 F-Body
03-28-2012, 08:12 AM
#7
so, a quick question about this....my pedal is barely coming off the floor this morning as well. is it possible/probably/likely that the slave is still good, and replacing the master will get it to unstick, or is it that once stuck, it needs to be replaced?
funds are kinda tight right now, this is my daily driver, and i'd rather not have to spend the extra money on a new slave also if there's a good chance it can still work.
funds are kinda tight right now, this is my daily driver, and i'd rather not have to spend the extra money on a new slave also if there's a good chance it can still work.
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03-28-2012, 09:00 AM
#9
so, a quick question about this....my pedal is barely coming off the floor this morning as well. is it possible/probably/likely that the slave is still good, and replacing the master will get it to unstick, or is it that once stuck, it needs to be replaced?
funds are kinda tight right now, this is my daily driver, and i'd rather not have to spend the extra money on a new slave also if there's a good chance it can still work.
funds are kinda tight right now, this is my daily driver, and i'd rather not have to spend the extra money on a new slave also if there's a good chance it can still work.
03-28-2012, 04:26 PM
#10
you got an order coming your way in a few
04-16-2012, 03:02 PM
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Bringing this back from the dead. I need to replace my slave cylinder so I went to O'Reilys and priced out a slave. The price I was quoted was right around $70. I was going to order the slave from tick since I will be buying the speed bleeder but the price of their slave is double. Now I know Tick makes ridiculously awesome products, hell I have the Tick MC and cannot see myself ever NOT having it, but I was curious if there was a difference? Should I go with the cheaper one from the parts store or buy the tick unit? I would rather put in a unit that won't take a sh*t on me after a few hundred miles. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
04-16-2012, 03:50 PM
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Bringing this back from the dead. I need to replace my slave cylinder so I went to O'Reilys and priced out a slave. The price I was quoted was right around $70. I was going to order the slave from tick since I will be buying the speed bleeder but the price of their slave is double. Now I know Tick makes ridiculously awesome products, hell I have the Tick MC and cannot see myself ever NOT having it, but I was curious if there was a difference? Should I go with the cheaper one from the parts store or buy the tick unit? I would rather put in a unit that won't take a sh*t on me after a few hundred miles. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
04-16-2012, 04:14 PM
#16
My clutch pedal has been sticky ever since I bought my car (00' Trans Am), and same with my brother (01' Trans Am). Weve tried every type of bleeding imaginable. We both replaced the Slave, mine with an autozone one, my bro with a oem gm unit, still the same thing. Then bought brand new master cylinders, didn't change anything. Then did the drill mod, still nothing.
The more and more reading I do, the more all the evidence is pointing to our slaves not being shimmed correctly because a few guys in town here have all stock hydrualics with properly shimmed slaves with their after market clutches feel awesome and can bang high rpm shifts like nothing.
My clutch pedal doesn't just get sticky during high rpm shifting, it is just sticky like these guys are saying, after the car warms up a bit and you start driving. The clutch pedal feels soft and has a hard time coming all the way back up. If I pump the heck out of it, it will feel awesome for like a few minutes but then gets soft again.
If I'm not mistaken the pressure plate's fingers push on the throw out bearing on the slave which helps push the clutch pedal up right? Well, I think that the slave needs a shim but doesn't have it so it's farther away from the fingers of the pressure plate and the fingers can't reach far enough to push on the bearing enough to get the pedal back up. Hence why a ton of us on tech get that lazy clutch pedal feel that only comes up like 3/4 of the way. I'm guessing the guy who had my car before me had a new clutch put in and had the stock flywheel turned which lengthened the gap between the pressure plate fingers and the slave's throw out bearing.
I remember a thread done by Monster Clutches when they first became a sponser on tech where they took a cammed LS1 with stock hydraulics and put in a stage 3 clutch and said it was just awesome and felt great. I remember them emphasizing that they didn't believe the problem was with the stock hydros because the car was run down the quarter numerous times with no problems. Tick, I'm not knocking your master at all, I think it's a great product and have heard nothing but raves about it from everyone here, but just putting some more info out there.
The more and more reading I do, the more all the evidence is pointing to our slaves not being shimmed correctly because a few guys in town here have all stock hydrualics with properly shimmed slaves with their after market clutches feel awesome and can bang high rpm shifts like nothing.
My clutch pedal doesn't just get sticky during high rpm shifting, it is just sticky like these guys are saying, after the car warms up a bit and you start driving. The clutch pedal feels soft and has a hard time coming all the way back up. If I pump the heck out of it, it will feel awesome for like a few minutes but then gets soft again.
If I'm not mistaken the pressure plate's fingers push on the throw out bearing on the slave which helps push the clutch pedal up right? Well, I think that the slave needs a shim but doesn't have it so it's farther away from the fingers of the pressure plate and the fingers can't reach far enough to push on the bearing enough to get the pedal back up. Hence why a ton of us on tech get that lazy clutch pedal feel that only comes up like 3/4 of the way. I'm guessing the guy who had my car before me had a new clutch put in and had the stock flywheel turned which lengthened the gap between the pressure plate fingers and the slave's throw out bearing.
I remember a thread done by Monster Clutches when they first became a sponser on tech where they took a cammed LS1 with stock hydraulics and put in a stage 3 clutch and said it was just awesome and felt great. I remember them emphasizing that they didn't believe the problem was with the stock hydros because the car was run down the quarter numerous times with no problems. Tick, I'm not knocking your master at all, I think it's a great product and have heard nothing but raves about it from everyone here, but just putting some more info out there.
04-16-2012, 04:37 PM
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My pedal use to stay near the floor until i pumped it a few times to build up pressure. This would especially be a problem on colder days when the seals would shrink. Went ahead and replaced the master first. Of course, once underneath, I noticed the fluid coming from the slave. Both were lifetime parts from Autozone and both have been working well.
04-16-2012, 04:53 PM
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Yea my pedal only comes up about 3/4 of the way no matter how I adjust my MC. I need to get this figured out because I am tired of not being able to bang gears at high rpm's lol. Short shifting sucks. I just really would like to know the difference because if they are the same thing I don't want to pay double the price.
04-16-2012, 07:02 PM
#19
I'm dealing with this same thing right now. About to buy a Tick MC, but the OEM Slave in stock at tick is $135, $89 (plus $10 shipping) at Monster for their version (which is supposedly stock but not GM branded), and other threads are saying that the one you get at Autozone or NAPA is also an OEM unit - all three supposedly manufactured by AP - but for $65-$70 there instead. Autozone shows the Slave being in stock at my local Autozone for $64.99. I'm all about showing some love to Tick and Monster, but that's a big price jump for what is supposed to be the same thing under a different name.
04-17-2012, 12:29 AM
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Here's what the one at Autozone looks like:
Here's that AP logo for verification:
As you can see, clearly identical to what you see for sale on some of the board sponsor websites. This one only cost me $64.99 at Autozone. It comes in a big clear plastic "Duralast" bag. Not a Duralast product, of course, just like the OEM one is not actually a GM product - just manufactured by AP and sold under that name. Hope this helps anyone looking for clarity.
Last edited by Onyx_Black_Z28; 04-17-2012 at 01:31 AM.