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Thanks for all of your help with diagnosing my clutch issues. We installed a Tick Adjustable Master Cylinder and have been working to fine tune the adjustment to get it right. Here's where we at right now and I'm honestly not sure what to do next:
Setup: McLeod RST, Aluminum Flywheel, Tick MC. Firm pedal and we've bled it a few times to make sure we don't have air in the system.
1. Transmission shifts smoothly, even at high RPMs, however I still have the occassional issue getting it into Reverse. Still feels like a disengagement issue with Reverse.
2. The clutch pedal already sits very high and engages pretty high up. Pedal sits 2 inches higher than the brake pedal and engagement is about 3/4 of the way up. This seems contrary to what most are experiencing.
3. If I adjust the clutch pedal any higher it does seem to help the Reverse issue, however I'm hesitant to continue to raise the pedal. If I adjust it any higher, I will run into issues with the pedal depressing the neutral safety switch at start up....I'm probably a quarter turn of the turnbuckle away from that being a problem again. Sure, the neutral safety switch can be adjusted too, however I wanted to make sure I'm not masking a bigger problem.
Is there any danger in running the pedal so high? If I understand what I've been reading, most of the concerns about damaging the pressure plate are from applying too much pressure.
yes, you will blow out the pp fingers if the tick is adjusted too far out.
on my gto, the clutch pedal is about half as high as the brake pedal.
shifts are flawless, even @ high rpm.
i ruined a ls7 clutch plate by not adjusting correctly out of the box.
yes, you will blow out the pp fingers if the tick is adjusted too far out.
on my gto, the clutch pedal is about half as high as the brake pedal.
shifts are flawless, even @ high rpm.
i ruined a ls7 clutch plate by not adjusting correctly out of the box.
Thanks for the heads up. What do you think is the next best step? Move the turnbuckle all the way down to shorten the pedal and then just slowly work my way back up and hope to find a point where it shifts smoothly without disengagement issues?
It's hard for me to grasp what's happening mechanically. I know that lowering the pedal a little gives me a disengagement issue with the 2-3 shift. Is it reasonable to conclude that I'd have the same disengagement issue if I lowered the pedal by a few inches or is that based on a flawed assumption?
the way i did it was to adjust the pedal as close to the firewall as i could.
had the car on a lift - we then adjusted the pedal just enough to allow a
smooth shift, all while checking if we had full disengagement ( car running,
press clutch in, pressed brake pedal to see if car would stall ). like i said,
we ended up with the clutch pedal about half as high as the brake pedal.
hope that helps, post up if you need more clarification or questions. i learned
the hard way
Thanks for the clarification. For the sake of comparison -- not a great camera angle, however it's easy to see how high the clutch pedal is currently....
It seems the next best path is to adjust the pedal as close as I can to the firewall and then slowly work my way up to a point where we don't have disengagement issues.
I'm going to start from scratch and see if it will. My mechanic did the install and initial adjustment, but we still had some disengagement issues, so I slowly raised the pedal until the issues improved/went away.
In theory I couldn't understand how lowering the pedal would allow the clutch to disengage, however I suppose its worth a try to see if it will work.
I didn't measure for a shim. The guy that installed the clutch is a pretty highly regarded LSx guy in the area so I feel good about the quality of the install.
Would it be possible it was within the tolerance for installation without a shim (with the factory hydraulics) and now needs a shim due to tolerance stacking of the components? Hate to pull the transmission, however I guess that would present an opportunity to throw in the Tick speed bleeder!
It's possible, but if the guy who did the work knows these cars, he probably did measure. Might be worth asking him. I would certainly hate for you to pull the tranny just to find out it measures out OK. If you ask him and he didn't measure, you might have to do it.
It just seems to me you shouldn't need that much pedal with a tick master, because it moves so much fluid - more than double the stock master. So, either you're compensating for an excessive gap OR there is a problem with reverse internally
If you lower the pedal, do all the gears shift perfectly fine except reverse?
06-15-2015, 02:51 PM
Tick Master Cylinder Adjustment 
