URGENT! NEED Help Diagnosing t56 Noise
09-19-2015, 03:49 PM
#1
URGENT! NEED Help Diagnosing t56 Noise I recently installed a new slave cylinder, master cylinder, shifter, and speed bleeder. I put about 130 miles on the car the day after, and it drove PERFECTLY and made no weird noises whatsoever. Three things happened that night that I suspect could have something to do with the issue that I am having. First, I accidentally slippped my clutch quite a bit trying to ease over a few speed bumps. Second, I let my girlfriend drive my car (extremely inexperienced w/ manuals, I know this wasn't a genius idea). Third, I attempted to do a burnout (dumped clutch at around 3k in first and then moved to brake pedal quickly), as I have never done one in a manual car and I plan on going to the track wednesday and did not want to embarass myself there. The next day, I drove it some more and noticed that while releasing the clutch pedal with the car in gear it makes a noise that sounds very similar to some videos that I heard on youtube of a bad pilot bearing... That being said. Could any of those three things cause my pilot bearing to fail so suddenly?!?! Again, It makes the noise when the clutch pedal is being released when starting at a stop light, etc... It never did anything like this before. Is there anyway that i could have just glazed the clutch a bit or something and that is causing it to make some noise when being released? Any and all help is greatly appreciated! I really need to drive the car to Chicago and back (about 400 miles round trip) in two weeks.
09-19-2015, 06:51 PM
#2
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Is it a really high pitched rhythmic squeak-squeak-squeak whenever the pedal is in and disappears when the pedal is out? That's pilot bearing. Is it more of a deeper rubbing sound that only happens during engagement? That's glazing on the flywheel. Happens a lot with high grip clutch friction
09-19-2015, 07:26 PM
#3
Is it a really high pitched rhythmic squeak-squeak-squeak whenever the pedal is in and disappears when the pedal is out? That's pilot bearing. Is it more of a deeper rubbing sound that only happens during engagement? That's glazing on the flywheel. Happens a lot with high grip clutch friction
09-20-2015, 10:33 AM
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That's glazing on the flywheel. I've found that I can break that glaze by getting up to highway speeds (100 or so) and feather 4th gear a few times.
09-25-2015, 04:06 PM
#8
After listening to it some more, I am feeling more and more as though it is the pilot bearing giving me issues. It does makes noise while the clutch pedal is fully pressed that goes away when the pedal is released as well as the other noise I am hearing. The problem is, both of these are intermitten. I am just going to have to drop the tranny again and check things out. For good measure, the clutch, presssure plate, and flywheel will be replaced while it is out to ensure that it doesn't have to come out a third time anytime soon (probably monster stage 1 or 2). When I get the tranny out, I would like to inspect the transmission itself as thoroughly as possible as well, as that will then be the only component that has anything to do with shifting that will not be brand new lol. That being said, I know that if i do wind up having a bad pilot bearing that it is possible for there to be input shaft damage. How much wear is "too much"? Also, what other things can i check for while it is out? I have read around quite a bit on whether or not to use a stock style needle pilot bearing or a bronze pilot bushing, and i keep seeing conflicting views. What would/do you guys use and why?
09-28-2015, 01:13 PM
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I've done both. In one car, I ripped out a ten month old pilot bearing and replaced with a bushing, because the dust had ruined it. On another car, I installed a pilot bearing a long time ago, and it is still in.
09-30-2015, 02:37 PM
#11
the reason a pilot bearing is in stock is because Tremac specs it....some chose to use a "bushing". I use what the maker of the transmission advises...bearing
what kills pilot bearings quickly is bad input shaft bearing. The play in input shaft will kill a bearing or a bushing
and on clutch install, use a VERY light coat of high temp grease on input shaft spline. Not much, just a little in the groves so disc does not hang on the spline when clutch is used
what kills pilot bearings quickly is bad input shaft bearing. The play in input shaft will kill a bearing or a bushing
and on clutch install, use a VERY light coat of high temp grease on input shaft spline. Not much, just a little in the groves so disc does not hang on the spline when clutch is used
10-01-2015, 03:42 PM
#12
Thank you guys, I will probably just use a factory style bearing when/if I pull the tranny again, but u honestly feel as though my issue may lie elswhere.... when my clutch pedal is pressed the noise is not really a grinding noise, but almost more of a rattle. Also, I feathered 4th at about 80 a few times and the other noise that my car makes as the clutch pedal is being released dI'd not go away. My plan is the get the rear end up on jack stands and test for disengagement of the clutch. I feel as though I may have to do some more adjusting of the tick master. My questions now are: if the pilot bearing is bad would it give me disengagement issues with the car on jack stands? Also, how far would you guys say is the point where is should absolutely not adjust the tick master past? Clutch pedal even with brake pedal? And inch higher? Two inches higher??? As of right now, it is about 1-2 inches lower.
10-02-2015, 05:35 PM
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The couple of times I had pilot bearing noises, it was a rhythmic, rapid, high pitched "squeak-squeak-squeak" with the clutch pedal in and varied with RPM. I could imagine it sounding like a ticking or chirping or rattling depending on sound dampening and how people label sounds, but it typically has a very regular rhythm to it. It always quiets up when you let the pedal out, because the crank and input shaft are spinning in unison, so the bearing is seeing no net rotation itself.
On the Tick Master, you are safe to go a little above the brake pedal. Not sure how far is too far. It's typically not needed, but each car is slightly different, so you have to do what works for your car.
I would not expect a pilot bearing to cause disengagement symptoms, unless it was partially welded to the input shaft.
Hope that helps
On the Tick Master, you are safe to go a little above the brake pedal. Not sure how far is too far. It's typically not needed, but each car is slightly different, so you have to do what works for your car.
I would not expect a pilot bearing to cause disengagement symptoms, unless it was partially welded to the input shaft.
Hope that helps