DylOrr

iTrader: (1)

I want to start out with the story of this car. I purchased the car with a locked up motor as the guy ran 87 fuel on a 93 tune and it absolutely destroyed it. I got the car back together and the slave was leaking so I just took it to a shop to have a new one put it. When I took it there they put a new master, line, and slave on the car (o'reillys brand). After I got it back it was grinding 3rd at WOT shifts. I asked the previous owner and he said it never did grind on him (I believe him after meeting him and talking with him). So to my stupidity, I changed out the fluid with AC Delco Syncromesh thinking that may fix the problem. IT DIDNT . IT GOT WORSE. It now grinds 3rd and 5th with any pressure shifting. If I granny shift it it seems to be fine. I only put maybe 20 miles on it with the synchromesh and switched it back to regular Dex III and it seems to be doing the same thing. I only drove it about 5 miles after fluid change and parked it because I didn't want to mess anything up any more than it could be. 4th and 6th gear are like butter even at WOT. It has an eBay clutch the PO put in it.

So heres my question. What do I do? Is it possible that the hydraulics on the car are garbage? Is something wrong in the trans? Before I tear too far into it I would like to get a consensus on what people more knowledgeable than myself think. Clutch fluid looks clean. Should I bleed it out good?

Thanks for any input!

Carlos01SS

iTrader: (4)

I had problems like that, I had to wait a good second to go by before I could shift from 2nd to 3rd and 4th to 5th. Downshifting was a no-no if I was doing it fast, or even speed shifting wasn't a good idea.
My factory tranny had 108K miles on it, found out it was the synchro shims, and I needed new 3rd & 4th & 5th forks replaced.
I figured since they dropped the tranny to go for a total rebuild, replacing the factory paper thin synchro shims to carbon fiber(excellent replacement material, far superior to factory synthetic material) and forged shift forks and brass fittings as opposed to plastic.
$3k
worth it though.

This was only because I had to get my synchro shims replaced, hopefully for you this is not the case.

calhoon

iTrader: (6)

First thing to do is see if the shifter stops are mis adjusted....assuming its an aftermarket shifter. This is supect because you only have two gates( forward) that are problematic. Throw the stops away, they do nothing.

Carlos: There are no shims for the synchros and the paper synchro lining is NOT synthetic, it is an organic material. There is an iron 3/4 shift fork available to replace the OE aluminum part, however forging is NOT part of the recipe and is hardly needed. The aluminum 5/6 fork is not problematic and I have never seen this in alternative material. Brass fork shift pads will wear very fast ( not a good choice over the nylon stockers) . The correct upgrade material is a a bronze alloy, but some just use brass. The best fork pad upgrade material is an engineered bearing-grade plastic , like Vespel.

DylOrr

iTrader: (1)

I'll look into that. This is my first m6. I'm an automatic guy. Are the shifter stops on the shifter itself, like underneath?

DylOrr

iTrader: (1)

After looking more into it. I'm almost positive I don't have shifter stops. I believe it is a stock Hurst shifter.

calhoon

iTrader: (6)

The stops would be at the shifter stem where it comes out of the shifter. Stock and factory Hurst shifters do not have stops. However, if the shifter boot were torn it could allow road debris into the shifter and restrict the lever movement.
Doesn't cost much to look/ check it out.

DylOrr

iTrader: (1)

Checked the shifter and all was good. Drove it 30 miles and 3rd gear seems better but 5th and 6th are grinding.

SSSTANG#1

iTrader: (14)

Check disc to flywheel air gap. Needs to be at least .050" for proper disengagement.