pMak26

iTrader: (1)

I'm pretty disappointed right now. I bought this trans a few months ago. Finally have my build all done and putting all the fluids in... turns out the case has a crack :'(.

Is this weldable? Should I be worried about anything immediately behind this part? it's on the bottom back of the case, I removed the bolt from the hole pictured to see the extent of the damage.

stevieturbo

Crack not apparent in the photo...but trying to weld alloy....and cast alloy...upside down and with a fluid like ATF or oil on the other side.


Well, that isnt an easy proposition.

If you remove it and clean it etc then yes it would be easily weldable.

pMak26

iTrader: (1)

I actually fixed this already. I used Aluminum 2 part epoxy. I cleaned the area thoroughly, wire wheeled it, ground the crack down to exposed clean metal, cleaned it all again, torched it to 200*ish, brake clean spray, then torch again, then applied the epoxy.

I think it'll hold.

Luckily I have a new issue to tackle. For some reason the slave cylinder is leaking inside the box now. It has never even seen pressure as I haven't bled the line fully yet. This is the second slave cylinder already as the first one leaked too. What is going on?

JOHNNY59

iTrader: (398)

you using a new GM slave?

pMak26

iTrader: (1)

It's a LUK brand new slave. seems like 2 for 2 are leaking. Which is utterly ridiculous. What is the GM brand, ACDelco?

If there is a better brand, please let me know, next time i change this out better be my last.

stevieturbo

What's going on ?...depends where it's leaking from.

I doubt 2 are faulty.

showdog75

iTrader: (8)

Be careful using brake cleaner then heating or welding afterwards. You can Google it, very deadly combination if it's a clorinated solvent.

pMak26

iTrader: (1)

^Thanks! I did so in a well ventilated area allowing time for the brake clean to evaporate before putting the torch to the area

I ordered a genuine OEM (AP brand) slave cylinder. $170 later I should have it in 2 days. Not looking forward to pulling the trans to do this. I have zero room to work with and the sucker is heavy. But this better be the last time I have to pull this. 2 faulty LUK slave cylinders in a row is unacceptable. It's possible I'm doing something wrong but I can't for the life of me figure out what I could have done wrong.

stevieturbo

I'm sure there will be similar products in the US...but if doing the box from the floor, this is very handy

pMak26

iTrader: (1)

Holy crap I want that. If I could find it or something very similar locally I'd get it.

lizeec

iTrader: (57)

They have those jacks at Harbor Freight, they work great, and 20% off coupons on the net, you can get them for around $80.00 out the door.
http://m.harborfreight.com/450-lb-ca...not%20provided

stevieturbo

They're still heavy to lift from the floor position with the jack, but it's a huge help as you can move it around and dont have to carry the weight yourself

To change the slave, you could probably get away with just dropping it a bit ( remove drivesahft/shifter etc of course ) and just roll the trans back, unbolt the slave, slide a now one on and slide trans back across and into the bellhousing without even dropping trans to floor level.

pMak26

iTrader: (1)

Welp, I already did this last night


But to help get everything back in, I'll use this:


Thanks a TON for the heads-up lizeec

New slave will be here tomorrow. Looking at the old one quickly, it's leaking from out the back somewhere. I haven't pulled it and looked for a crack yet.

pMak26

iTrader: (1)

Found the issue. The slave cylinder is fine, and turns out it is actually an AP part as well. The leak is my own fault. I am using the Speedway remote bleeder and long story short I subbed out the crush washer for a rubber seal, my seal failed.

It's my mistake for trying to over engineer it, like a stupid engineer. I'll learn from it, fix it, and get it all back together. I have a wedding to attend tomorrow so I'll get the trans back in the car on Sunday. One step closer to finishing this project.

lizeec

iTrader: (57)

No problem, another trick I used is to buy 4 longer bolts that are the same thread pitch as the transmission to bellhousing but about 4-5 inches long and cut the bolt head off and slot the bolt with a die grinder and thread them into the bellhousings 4 corners with a screwdriver and use them like dowel guides to re-stab the transmission into the bellhousing, once the transmission is seated you can start putting the correct bolts in the other holes and then remove the dowel guide bolts with the slotted head using a screwdriver. I used old starter bolts and cut the heads off as they were about perfect in length. You will like the jack, it works great, made me wonder how I ever got along without one, but in the old days I was younger and Muncie transmissions were lighter, those Tremecs are heavy!

pMak26

iTrader: (1)

I got the trans back in on Sunday, no leaks and the trans jack made it a breeze!

Thanks for all the advice everyone!

kingtal0n

iTrader: (1)

When I was about 18 years old, I was cleaning the lifter valley of a 2-piece V8 block out with brake cleaner, doing some grinding on the cooling passages and lifter dog bones to retrofit a cheap roller cam. I decided since I had a welder handy I would re-weld and smooth some of the grinding, as I got a little carried away. Well, the lifter valley holds quite a bit of liquid brake cleaner, let me tell you, and when I struck the arc with the welder it about blew me off the front of the car.

The solvents are volatile, but its nothing like a real explosive (like flash powder or acetone peroxide) I think if I wasn't wearing a welding mask, it would have singed my hair who knows. But it wasn't that bad