Any tips for installing new clutch/pp/flywheel?
02-07-2006, 08:28 PM
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Any tips for installing new clutch/pp/flywheel? I got my LS7 clutch and pressure plate, and the LS2 flywheel. I borrowed an alignment tool from someone. Any tips for the installation? Do I need to clean the flywheel or anything? All help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
02-07-2006, 08:35 PM
#2
nothing major Just used two screw drivers to push the white ring in, on the quick didconnect for the slave to get it off. The flywheel install is pretty straight forward just locktight the preasure plate and flywheel bolts. As far as the alighnment tool I did mine by eye and got it on the first try. I have had better luck just going by eye on clutch installs than with a tool. I just did my LS7 install 2 weeks ago and it went very smoothly
02-07-2006, 09:01 PM
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In the process right now, still trying to pull the pilot bearing out. Took 5 hours of yanking and soft prying and pulling to get the bellhousing off. Took about 2 to get the top bolt of the trans on the pass side. 4 six inch extensions and a breaker bar through the shifter hole.
I'm hoping that changing the cam isn't as bad!
I'm hoping that changing the cam isn't as bad!
02-07-2006, 11:51 PM
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Clean the flywheel with brake cleaner or the like before install and again before adding the clutch. You want the engaging surface to be clean of everything.
02-08-2006, 01:12 AM
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Advice: Yep, three things:
1. Do it yourself
2. Coat the pressure plate threads in Red-locktite to prevent them from backing out later.
3. Bleed the hydraulic system well afterwards. I did mine this way and it worked excellent: (it will require 2 people to do this)
a. pump the clutch a few times
b. using a 7/16 socket and 1/4" driver, open the bleed screw on the slave cylinder.
c. press the clutch pedal to the floor and hold it there.
d. close the bleed screw on the slave cylinder
e. release the clutch pedal
f. repeat the process -5 times until all the air is out and the pedal feels firm.
Hope this helps.
1. Do it yourself
2. Coat the pressure plate threads in Red-locktite to prevent them from backing out later.
3. Bleed the hydraulic system well afterwards. I did mine this way and it worked excellent: (it will require 2 people to do this)
a. pump the clutch a few times
b. using a 7/16 socket and 1/4" driver, open the bleed screw on the slave cylinder.
c. press the clutch pedal to the floor and hold it there.
d. close the bleed screw on the slave cylinder
e. release the clutch pedal
f. repeat the process -5 times until all the air is out and the pedal feels firm.
Hope this helps.
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02-08-2006, 12:10 PM
#9
All of the above is good advice... here's my list....
When removing or installing the trans don't let it just hang. Always have it supported so it's not hanging off the input shaft.
Drain the trans before you remove it.
Mark the drive shaft to the differential yoke before you remove it. Lot of people say you should reinstall it in the same position, others say it doesn't matter, but just to be on the safe side put it back in the same position. Consider replacing the U joints if they look beat while it's out.
When seperating the trans from the bellhousing and bellhousing from the block there are slots on the side when you can use a screwdriver to gently seperate the parts. Remember the toleraces are tight and the parts will need to be seperated STRAIGHT. Trying to pry things off cocked to the side wont work. Also be prepared and have some LONG extensions and wobble/universal joint sockets to get to all the bolts. I think I have one extension that's +30".
You don't usually have to have the flywheel pressure plate combination balanced but I'd recommend it.
Replace the pilot bearing. It's cheap easy insurance. Rent a blind hole puller from Autozone, don't do the "grease method".
Check the slave while you're in there. If it looks beat up, has a lot of miles on it, or has never been replaced it might not be a bad idea to replace it with the current GM part number. They've upgraded it since the one originally in your 2000.
Clean the flywheel, friction disc, and pressure plate thouroughly with brake cleaner. Don't be shy with it. Soak them and dry them. Keep your hands clean when installing them. Contamination on the surfaces can screw up a new clutch.
Use lock-tite on the flywheel and pressure plate bolts. Make sure to torque the pressure plate, flywheel, and bellhousing bolts in the correct order and to the correct torque.
When filling the trans I usually do it through the gear shifter once it's installed.
To make it easier to get the torque arm back into position the rear suspension needs to have weight on it.
Thats pretty much my list.
When removing or installing the trans don't let it just hang. Always have it supported so it's not hanging off the input shaft.
Drain the trans before you remove it.
Mark the drive shaft to the differential yoke before you remove it. Lot of people say you should reinstall it in the same position, others say it doesn't matter, but just to be on the safe side put it back in the same position. Consider replacing the U joints if they look beat while it's out.
When seperating the trans from the bellhousing and bellhousing from the block there are slots on the side when you can use a screwdriver to gently seperate the parts. Remember the toleraces are tight and the parts will need to be seperated STRAIGHT. Trying to pry things off cocked to the side wont work. Also be prepared and have some LONG extensions and wobble/universal joint sockets to get to all the bolts. I think I have one extension that's +30".
You don't usually have to have the flywheel pressure plate combination balanced but I'd recommend it.
Replace the pilot bearing. It's cheap easy insurance. Rent a blind hole puller from Autozone, don't do the "grease method".
Check the slave while you're in there. If it looks beat up, has a lot of miles on it, or has never been replaced it might not be a bad idea to replace it with the current GM part number. They've upgraded it since the one originally in your 2000.
Clean the flywheel, friction disc, and pressure plate thouroughly with brake cleaner. Don't be shy with it. Soak them and dry them. Keep your hands clean when installing them. Contamination on the surfaces can screw up a new clutch.
Use lock-tite on the flywheel and pressure plate bolts. Make sure to torque the pressure plate, flywheel, and bellhousing bolts in the correct order and to the correct torque.
When filling the trans I usually do it through the gear shifter once it's installed.
To make it easier to get the torque arm back into position the rear suspension needs to have weight on it.
Thats pretty much my list.
