tici

iTrader: (1)

As in the title.
Pro & cons of the two?

Thanks - Stefano

Fran D

iTrader: (5)

Hey, Stefano! How's it going?

Perusing some other threads, it looks like the bushing is getting the nod as it is less likely to break apart and damage the input shaft. This has become relevant to me as I just fried my stock (~98K miles) clutch at the track last week, and it looks like it's time for a replacement.

Don't tell me you're changing your clutch already!

stevieturbo

Bearing should offer smoother operation...but a bearing can fail.

Bushing is also smooth, but can wear.


Dont think there is much odds between them

GMRACER13

iTrader: (1)

The bearing is easier to damage while intalling the transmission (especially if you are working on your back with a car on jack-stands). I've seen input shafts destroyed as a result of a failed bearing since the rollers and and races are steel and very hard. The brass bushing, on the other hand, is pretty soft and usually doesn't damage the input shaft if it fails. I'd go with the bushing if it were my car.

tici

iTrader: (1)

Hi Fran!
Glad to see you around
I don't like how this tranny is shifting so I'm gonna rebuilt it included hydraulics, TO and pilot bearing.
I'll replace the clutch too: I have a "new" one with "only" 10'000 miles from a 2002 car.
I'm ordering the parts and I wasn't sure about a bearing or a bushing.
Older cars used to have bushings. The bearing is the "modern" version...

Is a bushing more noisy?

Fran D

iTrader: (5)

Yeah, I know that I've had crankshafts that have gone from engine to engine, and car to car, and I can't honestly remember ever consciously replacing the bushing. I've read a number of threads here, and elsewhere, but I'm not sure I understand the root cause of failure for the bearing. However, since I'm going to have the trans down, I may go the bushing route myself.

As for noise, my guess would be that as long as the clearances don't open up, the small surface area and impedance mismatch between the brass and steel shouldn't add up to anything perceptibly audible at all. But, that's just a guess.

Is the new clutch you're going to use a stock GM variant? Didn't you have a Spec in there?

calhoon

iTrader: (6)

Bushings are the old way and are maybe cheaper.
When either gose out the input shaft is damaged. The pilot is damaged with a broken bearing cage. The input bearing( internal to the trans) is damaged when the trans is operated for awhile with a worn bushing.
My suggestion is use the more efficient bearing and be careful with the trans install so that you don't damage it.

tici

iTrader: (1)

Yeah... the Spec is still here. Right now I use it as a door stopper!
Both the flywheel and the pressure plate need to be resurfaced and balanced (the engine shakes and the clutch is chattering like hell).
Spec claims an "installation issue"
I can't even kick them in the butt because of the distance
This "new" one is a stoch from a 2002 WS6 (LUK brand).

Fran D

iTrader: (5)

How much more efficient is it? And, is this something GM has propagated throughout its product line or just an experiment that has run its course?

Just trying to get a handle on it.

Fran D

iTrader: (5)

Hmmm...I'm caught in a toss-up between the Textralia and Cartek offerings. I'm looking for a lot more holding power with my drag radials. Of course, my biggest dilemma is the cost! You know what a cheap SOB I am! That may force my hand to an LS6 upgrade or the like.

tici

iTrader: (1)

Or a LS7?
I can send you my Spec stage 2. It's too expensive to resurface + balance it over here ($200 - $300).
I can check for the shipping price if you want (flywheel, disk, PP).
It has only 500 miles, no TO bearing, no pilot bearing, no adjustment tool. I have the shim. You'll better have an adjustable master cylinder, as the shim they supply is just a guess.

Price: you decide. If you like it you can send me some bucks. If you don't like it it's for free.

Fran D

iTrader: (5)

I haven't been hearing good things about it (relative to launches with drag radials), which is why I would probably tend towards the LS6.

Sorry, I've heard even worse things about them!

MeentSS02

iTrader: (11)

If you are thinking you'll be getting away from the LS7's launching problems by going with an LS6 clutch, I think you'll end up disappointed.

Fran D

iTrader: (5)

After having thought about it (and not having the kids whining to me!), I take my question back since I've decided efficiency doesn't really come into play. Since the only time the speed between the crankshaft and input shaft are different is when the clutch is disengaged, the engagement duty cylce renders the point moot (which is probably why I've never changed a bushing in...oh...30-some years ). I'll probably stick by the old engineering rule of thumb that the fewer things moving, the better, and go down the bushing path.

Fran D

iTrader: (5)

Yeah, I hear ya. Which is probably why I'm a little less than glowingly enthusiastic. Still, the price of these things are close to unbearable! But, I don't begrudge anyone trying to make a living.

tici

iTrader: (1)

Haha! Nobody wants a Spec... not even for free!
OK, I'll hang it in the office near the LT-headers...

Fran D

iTrader: (5)

So what's wrong with the headers?

tici

iTrader: (1)

banging on each speed bump
no big power gain
rusting
overheating the engine bay
...

they look better in the office than under the car

P Mack

iTrader: (6)

Yes, mine was one of them. I went with the bushing. Not saying the bearing wouldn't work, for all I know the previous owner of my car abused the clutch and it failed from overheating.

tici

iTrader: (1)

why is GM using a needle bearing?
cheaper?
easier to install?