maverick18

iTrader: (5)

just did a textrilla less about 1k ago. and had the slave replaced about 500 ago. fluid is back to being black and when the car is on the clutch is real mushy up top and is tough to get in to gear. could this be the master this time or the slave again. I would hate to just throw new parts at it. any ideas?

brad8266

iTrader: (23)

If the fluid is black than that means the fluid is boiling. The boiled fluis will cause the hydros to airate which will cause major clutch issues. You need to do a complete flush and rebleed. You also need to wrap the master braided line with heater hose and tie it off away from the exhaust system. Once you do all this and prevent the fluid from getting hot then your issues will stop.

maverick18

iTrader: (5)

cool thanks, is there a fluid out there that has a higher boiling point that your standard?

jetblast

use a high temp fluid like ate super blue or similar, bleed the clutch using the pedal method first and then the vacum method, do not go over 20in/hg.

brad8266

iTrader: (23)

I just use the plain old DOT 3. As long as ytou wrap the line and tie it away from the exhaust you will be OK. If you want to just use DOT 4 fluid.

brad8266

iTrader: (23)

Dont use the vacuum method at all, just do it all manually. It may take over 20 cracks at the bleeder to build pressure, dont relent, just keep going at it. Took me about 30 bleed cycles to get it done completely.

jetblast

gravity beed first, then bleed with the pedal, pumping at least 10 times , do this 2-3 times but when cracking the bleeder don't wait till fluid stops flowing, close it sooner. then use the mightyac, don't go over 20in/hg vacum, if you see bubbles you are not done, i let mine sit overnigh at 20in/hg and the gauge droped to 13, second time at 20 again and it droped to like 18 overnight, my shifts are smooth at 6500rpm shifts. good luck!

brad8266

iTrader: (23)

The vacuum method has been known to damage seals in the hydraulic system. You can get a perfect bleed doing it manually without risking seal damage.

maverick18

iTrader: (5)

thats what i think im gonna do, grab a buddy and a wrench. wrap the header with a heat wrap and wrap the hydrolic line.

gun5l1ng3r

I have a master cylinder that I think has been ruined from using the mityvac @ 25In/hg.

And does it really take 30 cycles at the bleeder to get a good bleed?
I bled mine a month ago and I only cycled it about 6 times...
Is that not enough?