djm_e22

iTrader: (2)

First I have heard of stage 3 spec screwing up. So could you let me know if you have ever heard of stage 4 specs having problems. Anyhow do I really need a new $300 flywheel? Are our stock flywheels really known for shattering? Has anyone actually seen our flywheels shatter? Also I can use the autozone/oreilly's pressure plate with this right? Thanks for any help.

Jonathan@Tick

iTrader: (5)

Expect a ton of chatter with the spec 4. Its basically like a spec 3 without springs in the hub...just a solid disc. I deffinately would not run a clutch of that type on a stock flywheel without re-surfacing atleast. Also, you don't want to surface it much (less than .030") or you may run into dissengagement issues unless you shim between the crank and flywheel the exact amount that was machined off.

I'm sure spec is probably modifying the clamp load of the pressure plates as well, to work with their setup and achieve the most holding power. Unless you want to be doing it again pretty soon, its best to do it right the first time.

LS1-450

iTrader: (33)

Get a 3+, 3's are 6 puck, 3+'s are full faced. No, to autozone pressure plate, get the spec pressure plate; as noted above, more holding pressure. Actually, just get a Spec 3+ kit w/ pilot & release bearing. Flywheel MUST be re-surfaced. Should also get flywheel/pressure plate assembly balanced.

djm_e22

iTrader: (2)

When they resurface a flywheel how much do they tend to take off? I already did it once and plan on doing it again. What is the stock thickness of the flywheel and can I measure how much has previously been taken off?

The reason I planned on going with the Spec 4 is becauce of problems I heard about the springs breaking in the Spec 3. This car will barely see the street. So do you all still recommend me getting the Spec 3?

LS1-450

iTrader: (33)

I don't suggest the 3. The 3+ was my suggestion. Am not sure about the difference between the 3+ & 4 exactly, but, am thinking that the 4 has more pressure plate clamp pressure. Both the 3+ & 4 have much more pressure plate clamp pressure than the Autozone pressure plate you mentioned. Also, I don't know your power levels. So, can't say. Call Spec & discuss your driving plans, then you'll know for sure. If you already cleaned up the stock flywheel, you're done. Usually, from 0.010" to 0.020" is removed each time it's re-surfaced. Have seen some guys cut then down as much as .030" & get away with it, but, personally, I would not go anymore than 0.015". In any case, you will need a new flywheel.

Bratvold

Don't flywheels have thickness numbers on them too like rotors and drums?

teke184

iTrader: (5)

got a spec 4 on my street car

mated with the alum flywheel (wanted quicker revs and didn't need drag setup)....its tricky to drive.

the on-off nature of the clutch is compounded with the low mass of the flywheel.


other than that...which is specific to my setup....the clutch grabs great.


over the 10K miles i've had it installed, its slowly picked up a cold squeal/chatter"

when i first drive it after cooling off completly...it squeals pretty bad the first few times the cluch grabs. mostly in 1st and reverse (pulling out of parking spots). once i get out of my parking lot and through the first stop sign or so...90% of the squeal is gone.

LS1-450

iTrader: (33)

Yes, I am thinking that 0.810 is the minimum dimension from the crank mount surface on the flywheel to the face of the flywheel. However, my memory sucks. So, didn't want to note the dimension. Am more confident in saying that 0.015" can be removed & have the stock flywheel remain within spec operating thickness.

With a spec 4 (a higher than stock pressure plate clamp pressure), the best choice is a new "billet steel" flywheel, if the stock flywheel has been machined once before.

SPEC-01

iTrader: (2)

I too suggest a new steel flywheel...or any new flywheel over trying to reuse a resurfaced stock unit. You have a much greater potential for issues with reusing a stock flywheel. A stage 4 will be more on and off due to its pucked disc design. If you want a smoother engagement and better capacity a stage 3+ or even a 4+ (yes we can build them without springs too) will be a better option. Let me know if you have any further questions. Thanks!