Nick V.

iTrader: (1)

ok, i wanna get my car roaring a little more.

My car already has all the SS(SLP) options so its as good as stock can get.

I believe the car still has 3.23 gears and all stock parts but the P.O put 4k worth of mystery dollars in the car(what i was told) i believe this to only be radio, tires, and rims but i dunno if he put any internal parts in like trans parts or w.e



Anyway i wanna know what would be a good combo to get me up to about 400 hp, and maybe 380 tq.

No im not buying anytime soon cuz i cant afford it with college and all but these threads are sorta my future mod lists. so any help is appreciated.

Thanks guys.

::EDIT:: i want to still be able to run my car on premium and pass emmisions(not rly) so as long as i can fill up at a normal gas station im good

TransAmWS.6

You'll be making around 400 HP to the crank with just the basic bolt-on's (headers, catted or O/R Y, lid, catback etc.) and a tune, that can be achieved very easily, 400 RWHP would be a different story. No need on wasting money on gears in your application either, a stall would be much more beneficial. Just buying your basic bolt-on's really isn't very expensive either and this is coming from a fellow college kid. Bolt-on's + a stall would equal out to a pretty quick car. I would start out with those mods first.

Rare96LT1Formula

iTrader: (32)

1st mod to an A4 (which I'm assuming you have based on your posted gear ratio) should be a stall. Is the car your daily driver? And as for headers, look at TSP's 1 7/8" imo.

Nick V.

iTrader: (1)

yes its my DD and a A4, which i thought i mentioned, oh well.

and thanks for the info.

Nick V.

iTrader: (1)

cool, is that what you have?


mines a A4 too, so whats your mod list?

TransAmWS.6

No, I don't have anything done to mines except an O/R Y and I only have that because it was a need basically. However, I'm working towards getting a couple bolt-on's that I mentioned you should look into if you want to reach your power goals. They really are great mods to start out with on a stock car, they make a huge difference. Especially the stall, they REALLY wake our A4's up

Also hey man, you might want to check out these stickies, they're pretty helpful when it comes to doing the basic modifications to these cars, the first one will help you understand what all the hype is about behind the stalls on the A4 cars and the second will help you to understand "bolt-on's" a little better.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...questions.html

https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...e-posting.html

Nick V.

iTrader: (1)

huh, in one of those links it said something about adding a cam would make the car idle at 800rpms.

....my car already does this anywhere from 800-900, so im not sure if my car is just tuned that way, or it has a cam.

BTW- there is no way in hell i have a cam.

Rare96LT1Formula

iTrader: (32)

Out of curiosity, how strict are the NC emissions tests? Do they perform a visual check? You'll want to look into that before you decide on an exhuast system.

Nick V.

iTrader: (1)

im not quite sure. i think they are kinda easygoing but ill check.

im in va right now so i kindas need to check VA's laws too

RPM WS6

iTrader: (3)

1st thing, forget about gears. You have an A4, you need to start with a stall. Once you have a 3500 or higher stall speed, any additional track gains from gears will be limited to about .1 second of ET reduction. 3.23s are an ideal gear for an A4 car with a stall. Put that gear money into a stall, 3500 minimum IMO.

jetaws6

iTrader: (3)

x2 stalled autos with full bolt on's have ran 11's

JohnS Z28

iTrader: (1)

heres a short list:
ported throttle body: $50
1.75" Headers with ORYpipe $520 at texas-speed (pacesetters)
ls6 intake-$300-$400
3500+stall
cam
no gears.
tune.
Should put down 400-420 EASY

Nick V.

iTrader: (1)

Thanks guys. Will i see a big mpg difference with a 3500 stall?

because this is my DD and as long as it doesnt get too bad im fine. if i replace my bad

02sensors my mpgs should be like 18-20 in the city i think.

Also- i read somewhere that installing a cam would make the car idle at about 800prms.

idk what exactly they were talking about but my car already idles there usually 900.

what are your idles at?


Edit. BTW- my car is a 2001 SS so i already have the LS6 intake. ....right?

JohnS Z28

iTrader: (1)

Yes, you already have the ls6 intake, my car also idles high (800+) but I got it about a month ago and have a ses code or 2 I haven't dealt with.

Nick V.

iTrader: (1)

huh, yeah i gotta change my bank 1 and bank 2 02 sensors.

i know bank one is on the driver side but i duuno if bank two is on the same side or the oppisite.

RPM WS6

iTrader: (3)

Stock idle RPMs are as follows:

A4: 650rpm in P/N, 550rpm in gear
M6: 800rpm

This is true for all LS1 F-bodies, and the only way that it would be any different is with custom tuning, or if something is wrong with the car causing a different idle speed. Having said that, the stock tach can often be off by 100-200 rpm at idle, so you really need a scanner if you want to be 100% sure of your idle speed.

Any cam will require custom tuning to run it's best, and part of that tuning will be a bump in idle speed, especially for an A4 car.

Oh, and Bank 2 is the passenger side. Here is an easy way to remember:

Cylinders 1-3-5-7 are on the driver's side. This is Bank 1 (starts with cylinder #1)

Cylinders 2-4-6-8 are on the passenger's side. This is Bank 2 (starts with cylinder #2)

dee99gt

iTrader: (3)

I make 380hp with my mild cam, 3600 stall and bolt ons. I'm having a hell of a time with my trans holding up tho.

Nick V.

iTrader: (1)

thanks alot man.

Nick V.

iTrader: (1)

Is it just slipping or is it grinding up parts?

Fbodyjunkie06

iTrader: (10)

You need a cat. As long as no ses lights are on, on the dash they hook up the obd2 scanner and check for trbl codes thats it.

A visual inspection is done, but if you have a fast or heads or cam it won't matter as long as you have cats and have all your trouble codes tuned out and/or have your car tuned correctly so you don't have to worry.