Deal of a lifetime? Z28 Purchase
06-09-2014, 03:15 PM
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Deal of a lifetime? Z28 Purchase Hi everyone,
I just joined the site and have found it SO useful over the last few weeks on deciding what mods I will be using for the 2002 Camaro Z28 I just picked up. I found a guy on Carsoup who's dad had just passed away, but had bought a 2002 Z28 brand new in 2002. I have all the documentations of all the oil changes, repairs, maintenance etc.
It has 45,000 miles on it and I got it for $6,000. There were minor dents, and scratches (some of which I have already repaired myself), interior was flawless and the engine was slightly dirty, but I have it looking brand new after 15 hours of cleaning it/replacing hardware.
I really think I got a GREAT deal on this car and can't wait to start modding, since I basically got it for half of what it should have cost. So, my idea was to let go 10k between the purchase and the mods. That means after paying 6k I still have 4k left strictly for mods, cosmetics, ANYTHING!
My goal:
Realistically, I would like to see my Z28 get around 400-450HP (if 500 is possible with 4k? I'd prefer that) at the crank.
This is what I am thinking for my first few mods and you guys can tell me what HP rating you would expect from these mods:
1. TSP Rumble X True Dual Exhaust Stainless - $409.99
2. TSP Long Tubes Headers Stainless - $409.99
3. SLP Lid - $95.95
4. SSRA - $199.00
5. Sub Frame Connecter (2 point) - $199.95
= roughly $1,350 for my first round of mods. So, $7,350 into the car after purchase. Still $2,650 worth of mods to go into the next year.
These are the first 5 mods (I'm a bit skeptical on the SSRA - please enlighten me more on the SSRA) I would like to see go in to the Camaro. Can I see 400HP at the crank with these? If I do the SSRA, is there a need for the SLP lid? Also, I understand the sub frame connector won't gain HP for me, but it's still one of the first mods I would like to do.
Any suggestions on this list of mods, the pros, the cons, or any extra stuff I should add to the vehicle before doing any of these mods will be very much appreciated. Many of you are very knowledgable on this site and I am very grateful it is here!
Thank You,
-Adam
I just joined the site and have found it SO useful over the last few weeks on deciding what mods I will be using for the 2002 Camaro Z28 I just picked up. I found a guy on Carsoup who's dad had just passed away, but had bought a 2002 Z28 brand new in 2002. I have all the documentations of all the oil changes, repairs, maintenance etc.
It has 45,000 miles on it and I got it for $6,000. There were minor dents, and scratches (some of which I have already repaired myself), interior was flawless and the engine was slightly dirty, but I have it looking brand new after 15 hours of cleaning it/replacing hardware.
I really think I got a GREAT deal on this car and can't wait to start modding, since I basically got it for half of what it should have cost. So, my idea was to let go 10k between the purchase and the mods. That means after paying 6k I still have 4k left strictly for mods, cosmetics, ANYTHING!
My goal:
Realistically, I would like to see my Z28 get around 400-450HP (if 500 is possible with 4k? I'd prefer that) at the crank.
This is what I am thinking for my first few mods and you guys can tell me what HP rating you would expect from these mods:
1. TSP Rumble X True Dual Exhaust Stainless - $409.99
2. TSP Long Tubes Headers Stainless - $409.99
3. SLP Lid - $95.95
4. SSRA - $199.00
5. Sub Frame Connecter (2 point) - $199.95
= roughly $1,350 for my first round of mods. So, $7,350 into the car after purchase. Still $2,650 worth of mods to go into the next year.
These are the first 5 mods (I'm a bit skeptical on the SSRA - please enlighten me more on the SSRA) I would like to see go in to the Camaro. Can I see 400HP at the crank with these? If I do the SSRA, is there a need for the SLP lid? Also, I understand the sub frame connector won't gain HP for me, but it's still one of the first mods I would like to do.
Any suggestions on this list of mods, the pros, the cons, or any extra stuff I should add to the vehicle before doing any of these mods will be very much appreciated. Many of you are very knowledgable on this site and I am very grateful it is here!
Thank You,
-Adam
06-09-2014, 03:37 PM
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06-09-2014, 04:00 PM
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I was under the impression that the 4.10's were going to be my best bet for performance. I am still not 100% sure, which gears do what and in which way certain ones are most useful?
06-09-2014, 04:14 PM
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06-09-2014, 05:08 PM
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Depends on what you what from a cam, mine is a good solid cam that isn't too big for everyday driving. But some guys what a big ol choppy cam which is cool but not always the best. Do some searching and lots of reading and you'll see what's best for you. That's what I do
06-09-2014, 05:09 PM
#13
since you're an A4 with 273s',go with 3.42s' and a custom (such as CircleD or Yank) 3600-4000 stall.
I would agree with post #9 that the 3.42 GM gearset would be the strongest BUT a GM 3.42 couldn't be used with the 2 series carrier the 2.73s' have. Unless you also changed the carrier to a 3 series,you'd have to use an aftermarket 3.42 set.
I'd do the stall(with aftermarket tranny fluid cooler) FIRST as long tube headers might complicate the tranny removal for the stall installation.
4.10s would give more 'performance',3.73s' are the general preferred,3.23s' and 3.42s are a big improvement over the 2.73s'. I ran 4.56s' for 4 years in my A4,back to 3.23s' for now.
torque increase to rear wheels from 2.73s'
3.23- +18%,3.42- +25%,3.73- +37%,4.10- +50%
I would agree with post #9 that the 3.42 GM gearset would be the strongest BUT a GM 3.42 couldn't be used with the 2 series carrier the 2.73s' have. Unless you also changed the carrier to a 3 series,you'd have to use an aftermarket 3.42 set.
I'd do the stall(with aftermarket tranny fluid cooler) FIRST as long tube headers might complicate the tranny removal for the stall installation.
4.10s would give more 'performance',3.73s' are the general preferred,3.23s' and 3.42s are a big improvement over the 2.73s'. I ran 4.56s' for 4 years in my A4,back to 3.23s' for now.
torque increase to rear wheels from 2.73s'
3.23- +18%,3.42- +25%,3.73- +37%,4.10- +50%
06-09-2014, 11:36 PM
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I would completely disregard any sort of gear swap until after you've done a ~3500 stall speed converter - especially if you plan any sort of cam upgrade. With a 3500+ stall speed already in place, the ET difference between 2.73 and 3.73 gears with a 4L60E/LS1 combo will usually be about one tenth. If you discover that you're one of the people who is bothered by the "looseness" of a higher stall speed, you could then swap to a numerically higher gear ratio to tighten the feel. But I would try it first with the stock gears, because if you are OK with the street manners there isn't much to gain in the way of performance from a 3.42/3.73 gear swap otherwise.
The car sounds like a nice find and a great deal. If you are on a strict budget and are concerned about appearance/cosmetics, you might want to save some of that cash for a roof panel replacement. Further details can be found here:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/paint-bod...e-dummies.html
The car sounds like a nice find and a great deal. If you are on a strict budget and are concerned about appearance/cosmetics, you might want to save some of that cash for a roof panel replacement. Further details can be found here:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/paint-bod...e-dummies.html
Last edited by RPM WS6; 06-09-2014 at 11:44 PM.
06-10-2014, 12:04 AM
#16
The converter is by far the most important mod on an A4. Like RPM WS6 says, forget about gears, cam, etc. for now. 3200-3600 stall for the stock cam; 3600-4000 if you plan on camming it. And while the tranny is out for the converter, have a Transgo HD-2 shift kit installed. It will make a huge difference. If you (like me) find you don't like the looseness of a converter with high gears, then look toward 3.42's or 3.73's. Forget 4.10's on your A4.
Lid, LT's, and a free flowing muffler are mandatory for bolt-on power levels, let alone if you plan to cam.
But I've saved the most important mod for last. Invest in EFILive or HPTuners so you can tune your own car. Everything mentioned above is going to require adjusting your tune. The money spent on a full tuning suite will pay dividends for the lifetime of your ownership of the car.
Lid, LT's, and a free flowing muffler are mandatory for bolt-on power levels, let alone if you plan to cam.
But I've saved the most important mod for last. Invest in EFILive or HPTuners so you can tune your own car. Everything mentioned above is going to require adjusting your tune. The money spent on a full tuning suite will pay dividends for the lifetime of your ownership of the car.
06-10-2014, 10:18 AM
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Everyone,
Thanks so much for the helpful info! I wasn't able to get on last night, but will be able to respond all day today as I am in my cubicle :/ - I will try to post some pics soon here ^^
Thanks so much for the helpful info! I wasn't able to get on last night, but will be able to respond all day today as I am in my cubicle :/ - I will try to post some pics soon here ^^
06-10-2014, 01:37 PM
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There are a few more questions I would like to address - Will that list of mods create 400HP at the crank? Also, what is your take on the SSRA - If I have the SSRA is it necessary to get the SLP lid, or is there no need for it then?
Also, what's your take on TSP products? The exhaust and headers I'm looking at will cost $820.00 - that seems slightly inexpensive for a full exhaust and headers, but they are stainless and they seem to have a pretty good reputation when I read through the forums on here.
-Adam
Also, what's your take on TSP products? The exhaust and headers I'm looking at will cost $820.00 - that seems slightly inexpensive for a full exhaust and headers, but they are stainless and they seem to have a pretty good reputation when I read through the forums on here.
-Adam