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Old 06-07-2004, 11:37 PM
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Default MAF Descreening

I just got done reading the thread about the descreened MAF and I was wondering is it worth doing? I know that it is real easy to do but does it really do anything?
Old 06-08-2004, 05:49 AM
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DONT DO IT
Old 06-08-2004, 06:48 AM
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Old 06-08-2004, 07:25 AM
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Cut out the aluminum posts if you want, but leave the screen there.
Old 06-08-2004, 07:43 AM
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messing with the MAF is just asking for trouble. take it from me who now has to buy a new stock one. leave the screen in, the gains from removing the screen are minimal
Old 06-08-2004, 07:56 AM
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Originally Posted by jrivera04
Cut out the aluminum posts if you want, but leave the screen there.
Actually, this is backward. It's removing the
internal metal ("porting") that changes the
ratio of total face area, for flow, to the
sensed area that affects the hot wires and
that ratio is part of the sensor calibration.

All the screen does, is keep large abrasive
chunks out of the motor and spread the
airflow evenly across the MAF face for
consistency.

The screen accounts for almost all of the
MAF's restriction. The little holes in the
honeycomb create a sheet of microturbulence
at any kind of flow and the drop gets pretty
substantial, and superlinear w/ airspeed. In
testing the larger MAFs I saw a repeatable
difference in pressure drop (duh). I went a
little further and figured up just how much it
would be worth at the big end.

<drum roll>

anywhere from 2HP to 12HP (@85mm), depending on
whether the screen's turbulence acts square-law
w/ flow rate or more linear. Of course if the drag
were higher-order than square-law (I'm not much
of a fluid-mechanics guy) there would be more
to gain. And more chunks.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-external-engine/162227-project-ghetto-flow-maf-cat-data.html

Now you might ask yourself, just what do I have to
do to get this free lunch? Well, if you have a truck
with a right-angle sweeper intake duct or a 'Vette
with its arched air bridge, the answer is you live
with comes-and-goes pinging until you get the MAF
table reprogrammed right. On a Camaro, seems less
of an issue.

You got to ask yourself one question... "do I feel
lucky?".
Old 06-08-2004, 10:01 AM
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Descreen it. Don't port it. Simple as that.

JRP, I've noticed that you usually give some pretty good advice. Why are you advocating not descreening? It's about the easiest mod I can think of that's good for a few FREE ponies. I've done it to every single gen III engine I've owned (and that's more than a few) with NO negative side effects. It really doesn't effect the reading of the MAF to any appreciable degree so it doesn't cause a lean condition, altered Ltrims, nor reduced transmission line pressure. The only possible negative is damaging the sensor wires in the process...but you have to be pretty clumsy to do that.

Even GM descreened the MAF on the ZO6. Looks like they learned a little lesson from us.
Old 06-08-2004, 12:39 PM
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i have also done it and with the ramair free mod and new air filter, i can definetely feel about 20 more horses. and ZERO problems, easiest and cheapest mod.
Old 06-08-2004, 02:15 PM
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i descreened it, just jab with a screw driver and yank it out. no problems. just make sure your airfilter is decent and clamped down, aslong as nothing gets past the airfilter nothing will get to your maf.

no regrets for me.
Old 06-08-2004, 04:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Colonel
Descreen it. Don't port it. Simple as that.

JRP, I've noticed that you usually give some pretty good advice. Why are you advocating not descreening? It's about the easiest mod I can think of that's good for a few FREE ponies. I've done it to every single gen III engine I've owned (and that's more than a few) with NO negative side effects. It really doesn't effect the reading of the MAF to any appreciable degree so it doesn't cause a lean condition, altered Ltrims, nor reduced transmission line pressure. The only possible negative is damaging the sensor wires in the process...but you have to be pretty clumsy to do that.

Even GM descreened the MAF on the ZO6. Looks like they learned a little lesson from us.
true, not everyone knows how to do things properly. i've seen plenty of peope crush, bend, damage the sensors trying to remove the screen. not put there lid on properly and have some **** fly in past the filter. is it worth potential harm for such little gain :dunno:? but what do i know, i've yet to do a free mod

also if i recall GM calibrated the zo6 PCM to work with the descreened MAF
Old 06-08-2004, 04:19 PM
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If GM would have asked me I would have let them know that no programming is necessary. Seriously, If they made any programming changes due to the screen removal then they were very minor at best. Other factors (the cam change for instance) would have made far more difference in regards to programming.

Sure, people are going to screw mods up. But this mod HAS to be one of the most idiot proof mods out there. I mean, there are alot harder things to do that jab an ice pick 1" through the screen and then pry. Takes like 2 seconds to do. All people have to do is this...DO NOT ALLOW YOUR TOOL TO TOUCH THE WIRES!!! Be sure to ensure that all hoses and clamps are properly seated afterwards. Make sure your filter seals properly (push the lid all the way back and tuck it behind the front lip before clamping.) It's that simple. If you're not competent enough to do that then you should leave your car stock or you should find someone who is competent and have them do it for you. They shouldn't charge you more than 1 beer.
Old 06-08-2004, 04:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Colonel
If GM would have asked me I would have let them know that no programming is necessary. Seriously, If they made any programming changes due to the screen removal then they were very minor at best. Other factors (the cam change for instance) would have made far more difference in regards to programming.

Sure, people are going to screw mods up. But this mod HAS to be one of the most idiot proof mods out there. I mean, there are alot harder things to do that jab an ice pick 1" through the screen and then pry. Takes like 2 seconds to do. All people have to do is this...DO NOT ALLOW YOUR TOOL TO TOUCH THE WIRES!!! Be sure to ensure that all hoses and clamps are properly seated afterwards. Make sure your filter seals properly (push the lid all the way back and tuck it behind the front lip before clamping.) It's that simple. If you're not competent enough to do that then you should leave your car stock or you should find someone who is competent and have them do it for you. They shouldn't charge you more than 1 beer.
i agree, it is very simple. but i also know that some people have the propensity to **** up in the simplest mods. i'd just hate to see a post from him like "help, i tried to descreen my maf and now my car runs fucked up!". and i agree not everyone is competent enough to mod there car. not implying anyone here is like that though
Old 06-08-2004, 04:30 PM
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Someone told me that only when racing to remove my filter, of course without having the screen removing. Considering a race is only like 13 seconds would that be ok and help much?
Old 06-08-2004, 07:42 PM
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i'm a complete newbie here and i'm still trying to figure out this newfangled ls1 contraption with all its gizmos and dohickeys... but i feel its safe to say that running w/o a air filter isnt all that great an idea regardless of where and for how long. you could have the tiniest pebble resting in some nook and cranny under the hood just waiting for that chance to get dislodged and somehow find its way into your intake.
Old 06-08-2004, 07:49 PM
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I'm with jrp.............Don't F*** with the MAF. Why take a chance for so little gain.
Old 06-08-2004, 07:50 PM
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simply put...

do it.
be careful
Old 06-08-2004, 09:23 PM
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If you're unsure of your abilities, there's an easy
way to deal. The MAF disassembles (4 Torx T-27
bolts; a T-25 will work too, as will a fortunately-
sized flat screwdriver) easily.

Remove the screened end. Put the MAF end
screen-down in a ceramic bowl of liquid paint
stripper, cover it with aluminum foil. Let it sit
until morning. The screen will practically fall out.
If it needs a little help, an X-acto knife around
the edge through the now-soft epoxy and done.
Comes out so nice, you could even reinstall it.

"Keep your tool off the wires" - words to live by,
for the electrician's apprentice. Heh.
Old 06-08-2004, 10:15 PM
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So what your saying is if you have steady hands and a good filter and lid then your ok?
Old 06-09-2004, 05:54 PM
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Ok I did it. I just did it the safest way by unbolting it (just to make sure I did just have a mishap) and started to poke at it and it came out completly. I was like is that it?
Old 06-09-2004, 06:09 PM
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Originally Posted by 99'Formula
Ok I did it. I just did it the safest way by unbolting it (just to make sure I did just have a mishap) and started to poke at it and it came out completly. I was like is that it?
let me know if you noticed a difference.



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