CamaroSS11

I have a 2000 Camaro SS with the 6-speed that I just got. Before i bought the Camaro I made a Mod List. I'm going to list my mods that I want to get and i need to know if they would all be ok to buy without damaging my motor and my car to run correctly. This is my List: SLP "FlowPac", SLP "Loudmouth", SLP MAF w/ screen, HyperTech Programmer III, Skip Shift Eliminator, VR Velocity Stack your suppost to stick it in the throttle body and it directs the air better. This is what I want to buy for my camaro first. Will it work?

shaneSS

iTrader: (2)

dont waste your money on the MAF, Hypertech or the Velocity stack. The other parts are pretty good/proven mods so Its just an opinion as to what manufacturer to get them from. You have obviously already chosen SLP, I did at first as well and now regret it for some of my MODs.

I encourage you to read up on the specific mods you are already looking at an investigate other manufacturers before you make a hasty decision.

Also consider making SFC's and a shifter as on of your first mods. if I was to do it all over again my first round would have been:

(ball park $1500 for parts) :
(free mods. ported TB. ported MAF ends. EGR)
BMR tubular SFC's
bMR tubular LCA w/ brackets
ebiach 1.5 springs
Kirban shifter w/ LSS
magnaflow catback
410s in the rear w a girdle (if your not going to the track)

Good luck with the ride!!!!

Crazyquik

Whats a FlowPac? Is it like a Lid? If so, good. Lids are great.

Loudmouth is cool too.

You can do a skip shift elim by yourself on the cheap if you want.

Skip the Velocity Stack/TB spacer. Maybe spend your money on a ported TB instead.

Dont expect 20 hp from your Hypertech, but it will let you change the redline and recalibrate the speedo if you get gears. The tuning will probably help a touch too.

2_wacko

iTrader: (2)

I am not trying to shoot your mod's down but that is not the way to go. Get True Duals or GMMG for exhaust, keep your stock MAF, Air Lid,Skipt Shift, and SSRA. These will be better than the mod's your listed.

jrp

iTrader: (16)

https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=139142
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...ewbie+mistakes

blkZ28spt

What he said.
Lid, cat-back, shifter, !cags, some form of cold air induction, subframe connectors are good start point. Then gears, sticky tires (nittos), headers and other bolt ons, cam, rear end, the list and the money whoring goes on

shaneSS

iTrader: (2)

and yeah true duals are sweet BUT staying stainless was a MUST for me and no one around here does that.

John95Z28

Take your time and do your research. Get lots of opinions, question your basic assumptions, talk to people who've done what you're planning to do, and don't rush out to spend money without thinking it thru carefully. Like you, I had a 'mod list' that has since changed dramatically as I've done research and listened to feedback(thanks to everybody on LS1tech).

One more thing: if a mod doesn't make a dramatic, noticeable SOTP change to your driving experience then why spend the money?

Example - subframe connectors (dramatic improvement)
Another example - that velocity stack / airfoil thing you mentioned (I bet the owner can't tell you if it's on there or not)

jimmyblue

iTrader: (11)

Trade the HPP3, the velocity stack and the
Skip Shift eliminator for HPTuners, roughly
even retail but no comparison in capability.
If you're gonna screw with MAF ends or
other mixture mind-bending mods you need
to be able to tune and log. If you want to
see a couple of hoses fall off with no SES
lights, you need a tuning program.

And you might just skip the MAF too, little
to be gained on a stock-flowing vehicle.
I believe you need at least a cam and
headers before the stock or descreened MAF
becomes any kind of limitation. I'm only pulling
10kHz on my SLP MAF when the stock cam,
stock SS exhaust tops out, and my MAP is
still up at 14.5 - 14.6 PSI - so it's not inlet
path restriction but heads, cam, pump and
exhaust after 5000RPM. You could pop the
screen, forget MAF ends (you could tune
for them but it would be cut-and-try vs.
the relatively mixture-neutral, flow-
improving descreening of the stocker.

Question the "Flow-Pac". Did your SS come
with or without the Blackwing lid? If it came
with then the lid part of the FLow-Pac is
wasted. Similarly, the SLP CAI piece will
-raise- your inlet air temps, relative to the
SS hood left by itself. This from my before /
after IAT readings. Might marginally improve
airflow (or not) into the bottom of the air
cleaner, but half of it will be well hotter
(pavement / radiator) than the hood snorkel
stream. A regular performance lid is the only
worthwhile piece of the "Flow-Pak" combo IMO.

Things not listed - LCA relocation brackets
(for launch bite, maybe save your *** - the
differential does not like wheelhopping M6
launches). Drag radials (one way to make the
wheel hop worse and break the diff earlier)
Some M6 people seem to like replacing the
shifter with something shorter. Depending
on what you intend to do and what you came
set up with, higher-ratio gears might work for
you.

PewterSS01

Just as everyone on here has said.....just take your time with your decisions. It looks like you want to improve the power of the car as compared to the handling. Make sure you take things like emissions, daily driving conditions, etc. into your purchasing. If you dont have to worry about emissions, long tube headers are a great upgrade.