bsf

iTrader: (7)

This car is just a toy to screw around with on an occasional nice day. I simply want more power, better exhaust note, and better handling. I am hoping for a relatively mild sounding idle, but a more aggressive growl at wot. $3k is my limit for the mods this year. Currently, the only mods are an SLP air lid, !CAGS, & UMI 3-point sfc’s. I plan to do the induction and exhaust this year. The handling upgrades will be some other year. I plan on owning this car for a long time. Originally, this was the plan/parts list.

1. Throttle body porting. I am leaning towards the economical S1 option from S2 Performance. I am hoping for better throttle response and good hp gain for the money spent. Maybe 5hp for ~$90.

2. Throttle body coolant bypass.

3. Intake manifold. I am leaning towards a new LS6 intake. The non-EGR version, complete kit, is available for ~$417 shipped.

4. AIR, EGR, and rear O2 delete.

5. Headers. QTP race version. Currently available for ~$719 shipped. Based on recent feedback, I run the risk of poor fitment, but no one comes near this price on Kooks.

6. OEM metal gaskets. $7.48 x 2.

7. O2 extensions (24”). $21 x 2.

8. Cats. I already have two Magnaflow MetaliCat 59959’s (3” in/out, C/C). Cost was $224 to my door with insurance.

9. “Cat-back” (really, dual). If my plan becomes more ambitious, I do not want my exhaust to hold me back. Bassani “True Dual” (5798RS5) is, the only off-the-shelf, over-the-axle, out the back, stainless dual. Custom work will be needed to mate the Bassani any headers, and insert the cats. I have this system on order from for $895.15, total, but I can cancel any time.

10. Custom work to insert cats, etc. $???

11. Tune. Get rid of annoying codes. Save my cats. Maximize my gains. I am not certain about this. Wheel to Wheel and Livernois, in Michigan, want $500 - $600. That is a lot of coin.

12. Koni SA shocks & sway bars. Considering what I want, I consider this the most bang for the buck in handling improvement. I am not sure when I will do these.

The total, excluding the custom work, tune, shocks, and sway bars is $2402. Would this be money well spent. Feel free to fire away, or just comment. You are not going to hurt my feelings. I have spent quite a bit of time on this plan, but I realize that a better plan may exist.

Spladamie

New era performance would be another option for the throttle body. I think they do them for $75-$80 and from what i have seen they do good work. They also have same day turn around. The only other thing is u might have clearance issues with the qtp and true dual combination because of your 3 point sfc's? Thats just a thought though, i could be totally wrong and it might clear fine.

bsf

iTrader: (7)

I have considered the clearance issue. I do not know how to verify if they will fit. I have studied under car shots, but I do not know anyone who has UMI 3-point sfc's with the proposed exhaust. Some extra work will be required to mate the Bassani to headers any way. If there is a clearance issue, there would simply be a little more tweaking.

HeapaShifter

iTrader: (2)

I think it looks like a pretty good set-up.

The tune for 500-600 dollars is probably a dyno tune. You can just get a basic tune and code delete for a good deal cheaper. You don't really "need" a dyno tune on a stock internal engine.

bsf

iTrader: (7)

Actually, the $600 tune is done on a dyno. The $500 tune is a canned option, with some tweaks for the car’s specific setup. I agree that neither are necessary. I still have a lot to learn about tuning.

98RedZone

iTrader: (1)

Thunder Racing, Speed Inc, and I think Texas Speed and Performance, will do a mail order tune for like $150 to delete codes, skip shift, raise Rev limiter, and lower cooling fan temp. I'm sure there are many others also.

black_knight

iTrader: (1)

First question: Why cats? You'll be doing tuning to delete codes, and you have duals to eliminate rasp. Don't see why you need cats...

bsf

iTrader: (7)

Cats for the environment. I would not mind keeping AIR, EGR, and rear O2's, except for the cost. Race style headers are cheaper, for QTP's. The non-EGR LS6 intake is less expensive than the one w/ an EGR port. Also, it seems rear O2's do not fare well after long tube installs. In addition, I do not want my exhaust to be too loud. So, in summary, I am leaning toward cats without the codes because that is what I am comfortable with. Even though I already have the cats, my plan is not set in stone. I could resell them if I became convinced that cat-less was the way to go.

I appreciate everyone’s comments/advice. Keep it up.

black_knight

iTrader: (1)

Do you have OBDII testing in your state? If so, then when you get it tuned and have the codes deleted, it will pass emissions without cats. That saves you a couple bucks right there.

black_knight

iTrader: (1)

Also, what plans do you have for next year? That will have an effect on what mods you should do now... unless you like buying the same mod twice, LOL.

bsf

iTrader: (7)

No testing.

Currently, the only planned future mods are Koni single adjustables and Strano sway bars. There should be no incompatibility. I could conceivably do heads/cam if I felt comfortable with my finances. If I did, I think all my suggested mods are not only compatible, but complementary.

black_knight

iTrader: (1)

If you don't have to worry about emissions, and you have true duals, there's no reason to keep cats. Sell 'em to some poor sod who needs 'em and also save money on the install. And enjoy the better flowing exhaust. And not having to worry about the cats if you run rich pre-tuned.

Trouble is that H/C benefits from 90/90mm intake/TB and boltons really don't. If you know for sure you're not doing H/C then yeah go with the LS6 intake and be done with it. Also if you're going H/C, then you'll want to do the tune after that... or at the very least make a deal with your tuner for a discount when you have to re-tune.

So... yeah. You need to know where you're going before you start.

ChocoTaco369

skip the throttle body bypass. it's a waste of money, completely unnecessary and all you'll be doing is screwing with a part of the car that was never made to be screwed with. think about it. it's cheap and if it's so good to add horsepower, why didn't GM do it? i mean, wouldn't ANY car company like to boost their advertised horsepower rating for next to nothing?

there's a reason why GM never did these cheap and "free mods" from the factory. they're lousy for the car and don't do crap for it on the positive side. the only "cheap mod" i'll ever do to my car is porting the throttle body. you can keep all the rest of those hoaxes.

black_knight

iTrader: (1)

I thought "because it's not suitable to cold weather climates"?

bsf

iTrader: (7)

I will be honest. I have not researched the tb bypass. A guy at a local performance shop suggested it. He also mentioned something about cold weather climates. I appreciate the feedback, and will research this further before I make my final decision on this item.

bsf

iTrader: (7)

Concerning the cats, everything is on the table. The cats are supposed to flow ~570cfm. I will think about this item further.

Concerning heads/cam & intake/tb, you are right. I was thinking about what my proposed mods would actually net me; probably 30-40rwhp. Then I think about what I could gain from heads/cam. Originally, H/C was not in the picture, but it would be a much bigger gainer than induction and exhaust will be. Obviously, induction & exhaust would still come first, or concurrently. I originally ignored the 90/90 setup because of the cost, and it would be a waste without additional mods. But, I do not want to buy an LS6 intake only to sell it and buy a FAST. I think I need to take a step back. I thought this plan was fairly solid and complete. Maybe not.

This is exactly what I want from you guys. Keep it coming.

300bhp/ton

This is all IMO, so please take it for what it's worth. However I have spent much time researching EACH item and the supplier.

Don't we all

If on a budget I'd probably look at a slightly different list to maximise gain.

Do it yourself its FREE, see sig for link. BUT wait a sec because there may be a better option.

Totally pointless and yields no significant gain.

This is why I say hold on a second. The LS6 is fine but the FAST 90 is a much better setup. If you plan on modding the car and eventually getting a cam the FAST will be well worth the money. TSP offer a cheaper 90mm Throttle Body to go with it, else the Nick Williams 90mm TB is popular. I'd go with the TSP one I thnk it's listed a P.T.S. or something. This will cost you more money, but hay I know a way of doing that...

These should only be done as needed for other mods as they'll yield no HP on their own.

I really like the look of the QTP's but why not save some $$$ and just get Pacesetters or Edlebrocks?? The HP gain will be the same and they will still last pretty well but cost half the amount.

TSP has great offers on Pacesetters and ORY for only $500 or catted Y for $700

If you went ORY you could flog these, if you wanted to run them a custom Y would probably be the cheapest option.

Although you'll see gains it is not needed at this level. If you plan on a cam save the $$$$

For suspension there is IMO only really one person to speak to, and that's Sam Strano of Stano Performance Parts (a sponsor). Sam also is a regular on this board.

He offer anti-roll bars (sway bars ) of his own spec and revalved Bilstiens which work well, or the more expensive adjustable Koni's.

For chassis components LCA's and such I personally would go for UMI Performance parts.

Viper

iTrader: (6)

#6

Get the new Percy gaskets, same price but seal better.

bsf

iTrader: (7)

I appreciate the advise, everyone. Lots of stuff to think about, 300bhp/ton.

I just got off the phone with an acquaintance who used to work as an auto-mechanic. Used to be quite a gear head. He suggested that if I am uncertain about heads/cam, I should simply hold off on induction for now. He suggested I focus on exhaust first.

The internal debate between stainless and mild steel is killing me. There is little doubt in my mind that Pacesetters are a great value. Something I will have to work out.

It is sort of funny how set I was on my plan. Now, I feel like I am starting at square one, again. That is what I get for attempting to be open minded.

trtturbo

iTrader: (25)

do the S3. Its worth it.
Find a used LS6 manifold cheaper.
do the bypass for about $3.00 yourself
Get a cam and springs.
Do the LT Pacesetters; coated
Get a good mail order tune for maybe a little less.
Keep checking on some used true duals.
Watch for suspension upgrades in the "for sale" section