Slp Cold Air Kit On 02 SS???
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Slp Cold Air Kit On 02 SS???
Hi Guys I Just Got My New Ride Today, 2002 Ss
Im Ordering A Lid First But My Question Is Does The
Slp Cold Air Kit Make A Differance When My Hood Scoop
Already Goes Into The Air Box??????if Its Worth It
Ill Get The Whole Kit. If Anyone Could Let Me Know
That Would Be Great Thanks, Ken.
Im Ordering A Lid First But My Question Is Does The
Slp Cold Air Kit Make A Differance When My Hood Scoop
Already Goes Into The Air Box??????if Its Worth It
Ill Get The Whole Kit. If Anyone Could Let Me Know
That Would Be Great Thanks, Ken.
#4
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If you are talking about the SLP cold air that goes under the filter housing, I put one on my 2001 Firebird and it was all good. I think it was about one fiddy $. The kit comes with a piece of rubber that blocks off your normal air box intake so the under filter scoop catches all the air. Trim a little plastic off in front of the radiator and it drops right in. You will get 'real' forced air. It is only noticable when you are at highway speed, but if you step on it you will find an improvement.
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Originally Posted by 02silvaZ
i would just get the lid and a K&N filter, bellows is kind of a waste of money, and your hood already does the work
i have noticed a lot of people have the lids with a stock bellow, i'm not looking for power just the optimal MPG i do 70% highway driving. should i spent the money on a smooth bellow?
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Thanks For The Info. Guys, I Guess Ill Go With The Lid+
Filter For Now, Then Long Tube Headers. That Should Be A Good
Start. Then More Money=more Mods. Thanks Again....ken
Filter For Now, Then Long Tube Headers. That Should Be A Good
Start. Then More Money=more Mods. Thanks Again....ken
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SLP cold air and bellows are pure trash. Get the real ram air kit the SSRA from LMperformance.com here it is
http://www.lmperformance.com/1858/1.html
http://www.lmperformance.com/1858/1.html
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Would having both the SSRA and not blocking the normal hood scoop have a positive or a negative effect?
I was thinking of weatherstripping the hood so that it actually seals to the box and using the SSRA. What do you guys think? Is there such a thing as too much air since it'll be coming in through two different places.
I was thinking of weatherstripping the hood so that it actually seals to the box and using the SSRA. What do you guys think? Is there such a thing as too much air since it'll be coming in through two different places.
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Don't listen to the people who say don't listen
I put this on my car and the IATs went -UP- by
5-10 degrees because the stainless caught heat
off the radiator. The SS hood alone kept me a
couple-5 degrees above the temp on the roadside
sign, once the SLP CAI went on it was 10+. So I
hacked it down to a stub and re-ducted it to pull
from above the divider panel, not the radiator-
space. Back to < 5 degrees above cold start
temp now, with double the hole.
I wouldn't buy it again. And if I had a Z/28 it would
be a homebrew free cold air, and not the style you
see all over the place. All you need is to (1) make the
air slot draw authoritatively from the space in the
nose, above the divider panel; (2) keep the engine
compartment air out of that; (3) maximize the air
that can enter (relieve the foam that obstructs the
"nostrils" behind the nose insert.
Practically speaking this involves 5 minutes with a
steak knife and a piece of angle aluminum or angle
plastic trimmed to the inside hoodline. Think like
the K&N FIPK accessory, minus the oily sponge
cone.
I put this on my car and the IATs went -UP- by
5-10 degrees because the stainless caught heat
off the radiator. The SS hood alone kept me a
couple-5 degrees above the temp on the roadside
sign, once the SLP CAI went on it was 10+. So I
hacked it down to a stub and re-ducted it to pull
from above the divider panel, not the radiator-
space. Back to < 5 degrees above cold start
temp now, with double the hole.
I wouldn't buy it again. And if I had a Z/28 it would
be a homebrew free cold air, and not the style you
see all over the place. All you need is to (1) make the
air slot draw authoritatively from the space in the
nose, above the divider panel; (2) keep the engine
compartment air out of that; (3) maximize the air
that can enter (relieve the foam that obstructs the
"nostrils" behind the nose insert.
Practically speaking this involves 5 minutes with a
steak knife and a piece of angle aluminum or angle
plastic trimmed to the inside hoodline. Think like
the K&N FIPK accessory, minus the oily sponge
cone.
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Originally Posted by LS1=Poverty
It will draw cooler air than the stock ram air does, thus adding a few more horsies. Also it makes your hood basically useless...
NOT REALLY BRO.. IT WILL DRAW AIR FROM BOTH ONE AT THE BOTTOM AND FROM THE HOOD.. YOU WON'T REALLY NOTICE IT.. BUT THE HOOD FUNCTIONS AT AROUND 80MPH AND UP.!!!!!!!!!!
#18
LoL Jimmy... I had that same problem acualy, but seeing as how I have a z28 its about my only choice, I decided that since the temp went up, put some heat resistant plasic up in there (inbetween it and the radiator) and that got the temps back down big time also, seeing as how I drive at night and its like 20 degrees here, awesome. It helps so much. stick ur hand out the window at 80 mph and tell me if u dont think all that rushing air into ur intake can help
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Originally Posted by IROC403
Thanks For The Info. Guys, I Guess Ill Go With The Lid+
Filter For Now, Then Long Tube Headers. That Should Be A Good
Start. Then More Money=more Mods. Thanks Again....ken
Filter For Now, Then Long Tube Headers. That Should Be A Good
Start. Then More Money=more Mods. Thanks Again....ken