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Why do I WANT to do the "Drill Mod"?

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Old 02-26-2007, 10:27 PM
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Default Why do I WANT to do the "Drill Mod"?

My 01 10th Hawk is bone stock except for the skip shift elim. and I see everyone recommends the "Drill Mod", but I'm wondering, do I really want to do it and mess with this car at all?
I can shift it fairly fast now if I want, and from what I hear, the factory set up was done in a sort of "self preservation" for the clutch.

so I ask, do I WANT to do the "Drill Mod"?
Old 02-26-2007, 10:50 PM
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I am not sure but I think the 02 came with it from the factory. It doesnt really matter how fast you shift the "drill mod" opens up the restriction in the line. Whitch allows the fluid in the master to transfer faster. It will allows the clutch to ingauge and disinguage faster when you are raceing. I wouldnt say its "self preservating" at all because its alowing the clutch to slip a little before all the fluid passes through the restrition.
Old 02-26-2007, 11:25 PM
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you WANT to do it so your clutch doesn't stick to the floor after 2 hard shifts... SEARCH.
Old 02-27-2007, 01:06 PM
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Yes it is a worthy mod. search is your friend.
Old 02-27-2007, 01:56 PM
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depends on if you're racing or beating on it often. i had a 99 Z and didn't have any problems with the stock set up really...

but the drill mod is a must have if you're going to be racing a lot.

and who cares about the stock clutch??? put in an aftermarket one, and do the drill mod at the same time.

grippy grippy happy shifting!
Old 02-27-2007, 02:10 PM
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I litterally forgot to do it (along with balancing my clutch) on my 99 Z, not that I care. Sometimes I get shut out of 3 on hard shifts. Bet that would cure it.
Old 02-27-2007, 02:36 PM
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I dont think that it has anything to do with the clutch sticking to the floor at all because mine stuck to the floor when I was coming to a stop one day and then I replaced the master cylinder and it been fine ever since, but I still do recomend that you do it.
Old 02-27-2007, 09:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Summit2345
I dont think that it has anything to do with the clutch sticking to the floor at all because mine stuck to the floor when I was coming to a stop one day and then I replaced the master cylinder and it been fine ever since, but I still do recomend that you do it.

It does make a difference. Romp on it from 1st through 4th gear and I bet by 3rd it'll be stickin to the floor. Search and read. Without the drill mod, the clutch hydraulic fluid is very restricted.
Old 02-27-2007, 09:43 PM
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Personally on your hawk I probably would't especailly since its still all stock. Thats just me. If it was moded to hell I'd say do it. If you don't plan on staying stock then go for it.
Old 02-27-2007, 09:45 PM
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There's no downside to this mod, do it and dont look back.
Old 02-27-2007, 09:50 PM
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Originally Posted by GTObsessor
It does make a difference. Romp on it from 1st through 4th gear and I bet by 3rd it'll be stickin to the floor. Search and read. Without the drill mod, the clutch hydraulic fluid is very restricted.
been doing it a few times every few days for a year now, on my 98 with old style hydraulics, stock clutch and NO drill mod and clutch has never stuck to the floor.

Last edited by bww3588; 02-27-2007 at 10:41 PM.
Old 02-27-2007, 10:01 PM
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Originally Posted by bww3588
been doing it a few times every few days for a year now, on my 98 with old style hydraulics and NO drill mod and clutch has never stuck to the floor.
How many miles is on your car?
Old 02-27-2007, 10:09 PM
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i have an o2 z dose it already have this done??
Old 02-27-2007, 10:20 PM
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I have a 02 and never got a straight answer. I did end up doing the mod.
Now get this - Before the mod I would end up with a lot of clutch play after only one hard shifting race. After the mod the play was gone - it solved the problem NOW GET THIS - after heavy use last week I ended up with a lot of air in the system and had to mytie vac it to get it back. No problems since.
So it works for 02's and I don't know if it does cause premature MC seal failure. My fluid was black (tell tale sign of seals going bad). I still have good clutch feel since the bleed this weekend so maybe it was a fluke. Didn't fix the seals yet.
Old 02-27-2007, 10:40 PM
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Originally Posted by BriancWS6
How many miles is on your car?
58,2xx as of now. august of '06 it had 45,242. the clutch is toast but everything else seems alright. also, this is on the stock clutch.
Old 02-27-2007, 10:41 PM
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Originally Posted by styoung
i have an o2 z dose it already have this done??
no...
Old 02-28-2007, 07:55 AM
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Originally Posted by GTObsessor
It does make a difference. Romp on it from 1st through 4th gear and I bet by 3rd it'll be stickin to the floor. Search and read. Without the drill mod, the clutch hydraulic fluid is very restricted.
Nope dont have the problem and I didnt do the drill mod. why mine stuck to the floor is because the old master cylinder had some black stuff in it about like ink after 17,000 miles, and probably why people say it fixs it is when you do the drill mod you have to bleed it to get the air out and it moves the stuff down the line or cleans it out. Thats what I think, but I may be wrong
Old 02-28-2007, 10:21 AM
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Originally Posted by GTObsessor
It does make a difference. Romp on it from 1st through 4th gear and I bet by 3rd it'll be stickin to the floor. Search and read. Without the drill mod, the clutch hydraulic fluid is very restricted.
Mine had a problem at the start and I just replaced the clutch master cylinder, never have had a problem since as well.
Old 02-28-2007, 02:42 PM
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if any body has a old one sitting around that was sticking to the floor. Take it apart to see if yours had the same problem as mine did with the ink like substance in it
Old 03-01-2007, 09:22 AM
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When I removed the master cylinder to do the drill mod at 65k miles my fluid was black as it could be. I flushed it clean before putting it back in.

Regarding the clutch sticking to the floor. I didn't have that but it was easy to feel the slow reaction of the clutch pedal before the drill out. Slow hydraulics will inevitably result in missed shifts if the shiftee shifts quickly enough. Some drivers never push the mechanism hard enough to experience the lag. But for those who do, this is a reason for bent pushrods from the blown 2-3 shift although the 3rd back into 2nd (intended for 4th) is the most damaging. Slow hydraulics also can result in partial clutch dis/engagement. This would seem to help to break things along the entire drivetrain as well as bending shift forks - or so I have gathered.



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