'Stock Lid to MAF sensor' adapter to eliminate air silencer - LS1TECH

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'Stock Lid to MAF sensor' adapter to eliminate air silencer

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Old 08-26-2007, 11:43 AM   #1
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Default 'Stock Lid to MAF sensor' adapter to eliminate air silencer

Do any sponsors sell a "Stock Lid to MAF sensor" adapter to eliminate the air silencer? I want to keep the stock lid because all of the aftermarket lids are flimsy (aside from the OEM Blackwing) and I question their ability to seal over time.

The closest thing I have found is the SLP Blackwing boot connector, but even this will not work without modification (lid and adapter are rubber).
SLP Blackwing boot connector

If no sponsors sell one, has anyone made something that would work.

Thanks.
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Old 08-26-2007, 12:15 PM   #2
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I've never heard of one. I 've never bought a lid for my 99 because I could
never justify $100. for a piece of plastic.
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Old 08-26-2007, 01:28 PM   #3
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you can find one cheaper than 100 bucks dude. and it's not just to delete the air silencers, they actually flow better and provide about 10 rwhp increase on stock motors and are almost a requirement on cammed cars.d
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Old 08-26-2007, 02:31 PM   #4
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You should just get a lid (that may be what you're thinking of). It basically has where the lid connects straight to the MAF and gets rid of those baffles.
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Old 08-26-2007, 02:57 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vtirocz
I want to keep the stock lid because all of the aftermarket lids are flimsy (aside from the OEM Blackwing) and I question their ability to seal over time.
My original Whisper lid was still doing just fine when I sold my T/A back in '04, been on two different cars going back to '99. Current Whisper lid is 3 years old without issues.

They should last as long as the rest of the car so long as you don't put too much weight on it (leaning over the motor, etc.).

Quote:
Originally Posted by john shea
I've never bought a lid for my 99 because I could never justify $100. for a piece of plastic.
Why not? It's $100 for a piece of plastic that normally gains about 10rwhp on a stock LS1, and it's a mod with zero negative side effects. They are worth 15+ rwhp on cammed cars. Plenty of people spend 5-6+ times that much on a catback which has similar gains. Only thing you can do to these cars for cheaper that gains similar power is a cutout. Otherwise, the lid is your next most cost effective mod.
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Old 08-26-2007, 03:05 PM   #6
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You are trading one piece of plastic for another. I have the MTI clear lid and it just looks awesome in addition to the HP gain. You can see where and how your flow is going. For the improvement $100 is not a bad deal, especially if you go with a high flow filter. The baffles kill flow, no doubt. Ditch 'em.
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Old 08-26-2007, 06:56 PM   #7
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Thanks for the responses. I had an SLP Lid and sold it because I do not feel they seal well in the rear portion (that sits over the radiator shroud). Just for extra insurance, I put a thick bead of silicone all around the air filter gasket (basically glued the lid to the filter) so I know mine sealed fine. Actually, the SLP Lid was in brand new condition and fit really tight when I sold it.

I bet everyone that says "no problems with my lid" or "my lid seals great" doesn't really know for sure. Due to the aftermarket lids design, the thick 'neck' of the lid sits on the radiator shoud and affects the sealing pressure on that portion of the gasket. Also the tabs are super flimsy on aftermarket units.. actually the whole lid is flimsy.

If you don't believe me, put some white lithium grease on your air filter gasket, then put your lid on and clamp it down, then take the lid back off. Check to see that the grease was transfered to the lid and also the sealing bead width. I think you'll find that the lid isn't really sealing well in the rear section (if at all).

Another thing you could do is have your oil analyzed with the stock lid, then with the aftermarket lid and compare the results.

The stock lid and OEM SLP Blackwing lid are very rigid and seal well. They are sturdy even when hot. I'm surprised companies are not making a small adapter that would allow you to use your stock lid and connect to the MAF sensor. I think the air silencer is really what is causing the poor flow (not the oval to circular transition).

Anyone else try to make something that would connect the stock lid to MAF??

Thanks.
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Old 08-26-2007, 08:47 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vtirocz
Thanks for the responses. I had an SLP Lid and sold it because I do not feel they seal well in the rear portion (that sits over the radiator shroud). Just for extra insurance, I put a thick bead of silicone all around the air filter gasket (basically glued the lid to the filter) so I know mine sealed fine. Actually, the SLP Lid was in brand new condition and fit really tight when I sold it.

I bet everyone that says "no problems with my lid" or "my lid seals great" doesn't really know for sure. Due to the aftermarket lids design, the thick 'neck' of the lid sits on the radiator shoud and affects the sealing pressure on that portion of the gasket. Also the tabs are super flimsy on aftermarket units.. actually the whole lid is flimsy.

If you don't believe me, put some white lithium grease on your air filter gasket, then put your lid on and clamp it down, then take the lid back off. Check to see that the grease was transfered to the lid and also the sealing bead width. I think you'll find that the lid isn't really sealing well in the rear section (if at all).

Another thing you could do is have your oil analyzed with the stock lid, then with the aftermarket lid and compare the results.

The stock lid and OEM SLP Blackwing lid are very rigid and seal well. They are sturdy even when hot. I'm surprised companies are not making a small adapter that would allow you to use your stock lid and connect to the MAF sensor. I think the air silencer is really what is causing the poor flow (not the oval to circular transition).

Anyone else try to make something that would connect the stock lid to MAF??

Thanks.
I've never tried your white lithium grease test, but I have seen people do the cigarette test. Where you put a lit cigarette around the edges of the lid and watch for any smoke getting sucked in at the back of the lid. I saw someone do this with a Whisper lid once, and no smoke was sucked in at all.

As for oil testing, I've seen plenty of tests on cars with aftermarket lids and the silicon content (dirt in the oil) was at or below normal.

I think a big part of the sealing problem is the following:

- People using aftermarket air filters like K&N. The K&N does not fit properly with any air lid (stock or otherwise), and needs a gasket. As the gasket wears out over time, the seal is broken.

- Install error. Lots of times people *think* they have a lid installed properly, but they don't. I know I've fixed a couple for people over the years who said they've "tried everything but can't get it to sit right". I can usually wiggle it around till it fits right.

- Some lids seem to fit better than others on different cars. So far, all three of my LS1 cars have done great with Whisper lids. Some people can't get one brand to fit right on their car, but another brand will fit great.

One thing I like about the Whisper brand is that their newer lids have a rubber seal on the lid-to-MAF connection, and as far as I know, none of the others offer this.

As for power gains, the gains are due to both the removal of the baffles and also the removal of the oval to round transition.

Lids are worth a 10rwhp gain on average, on an otherwise stock car. It's simple, effective, good power-to-dollar ratio gain, and has zero negative side effects on driveability.

There is nothing anyone can say to convince me that a lid is a "bad" mod. I've seen too much good (trap speed gains, dyno gains) come from using one and never any bad, assuming it was installed properly.
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Old 08-26-2007, 10:18 PM   #9
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RPM WS6,
Thanks for your response. I don't doubt the testing you've done ('smoke test') or oil analysis results.

I've only done the "white grease" test on 2 f-bodys with aftermarket lids, but in both cases there was absolutely no sealing pressure (air filter gasket not even touching lid for a ~3" section) in the rear section near the "neck" of the lid. These were installed correctly. With the stock lid, I have always seen good seal contact on the lid. Again, not a large sample size here, but I'm just saying I'd recommend other's check their aftermarket lid sealing... if it's not just put a bead of silicon on the air filter.

Back to my question... Anyone make something that would connect the stock lid to the MAF?

Thanks.
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Old 08-27-2007, 03:01 AM   #10
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Ive seen that as far as lids go the whisper lid is the best quality cheap lid I think, its very thick and seals the best of the cheap lids, and as I said its twice as durable as the rest. But the slp is the best lid of them all. It is as close to stock as you will get quality wise. If you want to do a seal test take the whole assembly off with the filter and lid in it and hold it up to a light and look up through it and you will be able to see where it leaks right through where the light comes through. You will have to look at different angles of course but when I did this I wound up sending back several lids until I settled on the whisper lid. I was going to get the slp then I went with the blower and sold it all.
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