Stock Cube LS1 6 Spd Nitrous Build
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Stock Cube LS1 6 Spd Nitrous Build
Ok guys, I need a little more guidance from those who are more experienced in LS nitrous builds. I tore down my cam only formula this winter knowing I had some kind of an internal issue and a slipping clutch. After tear down I discovered a couple valve retainers were broken and cam bearings were trashed. After pricing out rod bolts and flycutting the stock pistons I decided to forge the bottom end.
The engine is at the machine shop for machining and balancing; wiseco pistons, callies h beam rods, stock crank and stock block. 241 heads, Fast 102/92. G5x3 LG cam, Fast injectors and all typical supporting mods including monster stage 3 clutch, moser 12 bolt with 3.73 gears, steel driveshaft, Borla exhaust with a cut out, hoosier QTP 27 inch tall tires, HP Tuners w/wideband, a Nitrous Outlet 102 plate kit and a nos mini progressive controller.
My goal is to get this car in the low 11's/high 10's N/A and 9's on spray with a limited budget. I have accomplished a little weight reduction this winter with abs, air/egr, sway bar, p/s cooler and A/C delete, PA k-member and QA1 shocks on four corners. I would like to drive the car on the street on nice days.
My questions at this point are how much can I have the machine shop mill the 241 heads and how much compression can I safely run on premium unleaded? Should I even consider E85? What's the best way to activate the spray? Trigger through the tps or rpm? Would a stand alone be a requirement at this level or can I get away with a 255 or 320 pump and hotwire kit?
The engine is at the machine shop for machining and balancing; wiseco pistons, callies h beam rods, stock crank and stock block. 241 heads, Fast 102/92. G5x3 LG cam, Fast injectors and all typical supporting mods including monster stage 3 clutch, moser 12 bolt with 3.73 gears, steel driveshaft, Borla exhaust with a cut out, hoosier QTP 27 inch tall tires, HP Tuners w/wideband, a Nitrous Outlet 102 plate kit and a nos mini progressive controller.
My goal is to get this car in the low 11's/high 10's N/A and 9's on spray with a limited budget. I have accomplished a little weight reduction this winter with abs, air/egr, sway bar, p/s cooler and A/C delete, PA k-member and QA1 shocks on four corners. I would like to drive the car on the street on nice days.
My questions at this point are how much can I have the machine shop mill the 241 heads and how much compression can I safely run on premium unleaded? Should I even consider E85? What's the best way to activate the spray? Trigger through the tps or rpm? Would a stand alone be a requirement at this level or can I get away with a 255 or 320 pump and hotwire kit?
Last edited by high impact; 02-24-2014 at 11:46 AM.
#3
My questions at this point are how much can I have the machine shop mill the 241 heads and how much compression can I safely run on premium unleaded?
How much PTV do you have? Compression under 12:1 is safe with a good tune on Fuel injection.
Should I even consider E85? Definitely if you have the fuel system to support it
What's the best way to activate the spray? A Controller that detects TPS and RPM
Is a stand alone a requirement or can I get away with a 255 or 320 pump and hotwire kit? It sure makes it easier since you can run c16 or other race fuel in it a gallon at a time and 93 in your regular tank.
How much PTV do you have? Compression under 12:1 is safe with a good tune on Fuel injection.
Should I even consider E85? Definitely if you have the fuel system to support it
What's the best way to activate the spray? A Controller that detects TPS and RPM
Is a stand alone a requirement or can I get away with a 255 or 320 pump and hotwire kit? It sure makes it easier since you can run c16 or other race fuel in it a gallon at a time and 93 in your regular tank.
#5
Yes it has a TPS for the Wide open throttle activation and a rpm window switch built in. Is it a NOS15982?
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You can find the F-Body specific stand alone kits for a good deal. Might not necessarily be needed, but would be great insurance since you could run race fuel when spraying. Looking forward to seeing this build come together. I'm a M6 too and will be adding a plate kit here soon with a NOS Mini.
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I have been so tempted to swap to an auto for drag racing but I love rowing the gears while driving on the street and love the overdrive. So torn...I am certain I could reach my goals with an auto, it's going to be a little more difficult with the 6 sod. I will see how it does this summer and if I am not happy I will swap next winter.
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Block, reciprocating assembly and heads are finally back from the machine shop. The reciprocating assembly has been balanced and is assembled with new GM main hardware. I am anticipating getting this engine together and back in the car. I need to figure out head gasket thickness. .036 will work out to 11.02 to 1 and .040 will work out to 10.88 to 1 compression. A little less than I wanted but not bad I guess. Head gaskets, lifters and oil pump need ordered yet.
ARP head studs
ARP head studs
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Yes, a couple reasons: 243 heads are overrated and 241 heads are extremely underrated. With a little porting 241 are great heads. If I were to upgrade my heads it would be to an aftermarket head with a much thicker deck and that most likely isn't going to happen until I drop compression and boost. I already had the 241 heads and after porting, milling and a 5 angle valve job will work surprisingly well. They also are deceiving if I just happen to grudge a little. lol