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Anyone with a late model vehicle with the "no-lift shift" feature figured out out to utilize it while running nitrous? Thinking about a ZL1 later this year and already trying to figure out how I can run nitrous on it.
From my limited experience with my previous car (Nitrous Outlet LS1 plate kit, FP switch, Window switch, etc), it seems like those safety measures would be nullified by the no-lift shift. Then there's the inherent danger of spraying through shifts.
Anyone with a late model vehicle with the "no-lift shift" feature figured out out to utilize it while running nitrous? Thinking about a ZL1 later this year and already trying to figure out how I can run nitrous on it.
From my limited experience with my previous car (Nitrous Outlet LS1 plate kit, FP switch, Window switch, etc), it seems like those safety measures would be nullified by the no-lift shift. Then there's the inherent danger of spraying through shifts.
What do you guys think?
Thanks!
You can always wire the nitrous system to shut off when the clutch is pushed in.
Hey, I knew I could count on my friends at NO. That's an idea I hadn’t considered. Would it be like a pedal mounted WOT switch or is there a controller that has that setting?
Using that shift method the clutch action (depending on the speed of your foot) is probably less than a second. Would it even shut off in that time or should you use a progressive controller to bring it back in?
Hey, I knew I could count on my friends at NO. That's an idea I hadn’t considered. Would it be like a pedal mounted WOT switch or is there a controller that has that setting?
Using that shift method the clutch action (depending on the speed of your foot) is probably less than a second. Would it even shut off in that time or should you use a progressive controller to bring it back in?
Thanks for responding!
We would just wire it up like a trans brake application, interrupting the nitrous when the clutch is depressed. We can use a micro switch that is normally open and when depressed, would switch between 87 and 87A on a 5 pin relay this would kill the power to the controller and disable the system. As soon as you let the clutch out, everything would re-power and spray instantly(assuming you're still WOT and in the RPM Window). Hope that makes sense!
Brandon- If you kill power between shifts to the NOS mini, isn't that going to mess with your progressive controls with the unit? Will it restart the delay and ramp rate?
Is there a way to just cut power or ground to just the solenoids through the same relay?
Do you have a wiring diagram of how this would be set up?
Lets say with a LS1, M6, NOSmini, LNC2000, Nitrous Outlet plate setup, FPSS, bottle heater.
Brandon- If you kill power between shifts to the NOS mini, isn't that going to mess with your progressive controls with the unit? Will it restart the delay and ramp rate?
Is there a way to just cut power or ground to just the solenoids through the same relay?
Do you have a wiring diagram of how this would be set up?
Lets say with a LS1, M6, NOSmini, LNC2000, Nitrous Outlet plate setup, FPSS, bottle heater.
We could just interrupt the TPS voltage with the switch so that the controller thinks the driver pedaled the car. Within the controller, you can set it up to only ramp once and then be WOT or progress with every shift. There are options with that. I don't have any diagrams built for this currently.
On the 5th Gen Camaro (2010-2015), 2008+ Corvette, 2009+ CTS-V and most other newer GM manual transmission vehicles the clutch pedal now has a pedal position sensor (Clutch Pedal Position or CPP sensor) that provides an analog voltage output for clutch pedal position. No switches and the top and bottom of the travel anymore. Basically an old school TPS for the clutch pedal.
Lingenfelter makes a module (CTAP-001) that plugs into the clutch position sensor that provides normally open and normally closed outputs that can be switched anywhere in the pedal travel (adjustable in 1% increments). That would make it very easy to disable the nitrous when you apply the clutch pedal and re-enable it when you release the pedal. They even have a plug-and-play harness for most of the GM vehicles so no cutting/tapping into the wires to get your signal.
No added microswitch needed and easily adjusted for anywhere in the travel of the pedal with just a screwdriver.
BTW - most of the newer vehicles also have the same type of sensor on the brake pedal travel so you can do the same based on brake pedal position for 2-steps and other similar devices if you wanted to.
Originally Posted by brandon@nitrousoutlet
We would just wire it up like a trans brake application, interrupting the nitrous when the clutch is depressed. We can use a micro switch that is normally open and when depressed, would switch between 87 and 87A on a 5 pin relay this would kill the power to the controller and disable the system. As soon as you let the clutch out, everything would re-power and spray instantly(assuming you're still WOT and in the RPM Window). Hope that makes sense!
One thing that would be interesting would be to see how hard it would be to adapt the OEM CPP sensor to older vehicles.
Still leave the upper and lower switches for the OEM stuff on those vehicles but add the CPP so you have fine adjustment in the activation. Not sure how hard that would be - depends how different the pedals are probably but that could be a lot cleaner install than trying to make a bracket to add a microswitch on older cars.
Originally Posted by 99FRC
^^^^^
No kidding. That's the solution right there!
06-28-2015, 09:07 AM
Late Model Nitrous Experts Come In... 
