Berger Panel Questions-filling in letters
07-19-2009, 09:46 PM
#1
Berger Panel Questions-filling in letters so i decided to take this on myself and had some questions before i started. first off, what do you use to fill in the letters? ive searched every term i can think of and never got a definite answer. i my plans currently are to fill in the letters and leave the keyhole, and put a 1st gen script logo under the keyhole. Ive also ordered a GM performance division badge to replace the Z28 badge.
which is my question, how exactly do you remove the Z28 badge? i dont want to completely maul my panel, but am not sure how is the best way to do this.
thanks for your responses...
which is my question, how exactly do you remove the Z28 badge? i dont want to completely maul my panel, but am not sure how is the best way to do this.
thanks for your responses...
07-20-2009, 12:39 AM
#3
not exaclty the letters im talking about, i think i came across wrong. i want the "shave" the panel, make the letters go away. im asking about products like bondo. I just went ot advance auto and they had a whole shelf of differnet products, so not sure which one ot pick up. thanks anyway though man
07-21-2009, 12:16 PM
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to get the badge off heat it up with a heat gun and use a putty knife to get it started but don't touch the paint. then just keep pulling it with your hands and heating it and using the putty knife when necessary. That is just how i do it and it works pretty good. Then clean the gunk off from the badge with alcohol.
07-21-2009, 01:40 PM
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If you use a putty knife....... use plastic or mastic and not a metal one!
Or just use fish line and run it behind the badge in a sawing motion while pulling from the side you start on to the side you finish on.Be careful you might snag the line on the emblem and start to saw into it. I did this the first time I shaved my s-10. Luckily I really didnt care as I was throwing them away after they came off.
As for filling the letters, any body filler will work just make sure you get the mixture right and dont worry if it dosent completly fill in. Just sand and backfill till you get that perfect flush feel.
After using the filler it might be necessary to throw more than 1 cross-coat on the panel to darken the filler to match the rest of the panel. Just remember to wait a few minutes after each coat.
Or just use fish line and run it behind the badge in a sawing motion while pulling from the side you start on to the side you finish on.Be careful you might snag the line on the emblem and start to saw into it. I did this the first time I shaved my s-10. Luckily I really didnt care as I was throwing them away after they came off.
As for filling the letters, any body filler will work just make sure you get the mixture right and dont worry if it dosent completly fill in. Just sand and backfill till you get that perfect flush feel.
After using the filler it might be necessary to throw more than 1 cross-coat on the panel to darken the filler to match the rest of the panel. Just remember to wait a few minutes after each coat.
Last edited by cbailey; 07-21-2009 at 01:44 PM. Reason: Added content
07-21-2009, 01:59 PM
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Just make sure you prep the lettering surface correct for filler. It will crack real easy at that thickness as well because of getting hot then cold in temp differences. If you know how to use it, fiberglass may be a better route for something of the sorts due to the depth of the lettering. good luck and hope it looks great when its done
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07-21-2009, 08:12 PM
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Yea.. fiberglass could be a good filler for the lettering. Id throw a bit of body filler over it just to make sure when you paint theres not any dip in the panel showing an outline of where they actually were.
07-22-2009, 07:26 AM
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NO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! AND NO AND NO AND NO!!!!!!!!!!!!!1
bondo/fiberglass does not and will not stick to a plastic piece, never never fill plastic with bondo!!!!!!
what ya need to do first and foremost with any plastic repair/custom work is to identify the plastic!!!!! is it POLYURATHENE, IS IT TPO/TPE/TEO/PP/ABS/, the you can go from there, with the exception of the polyurathene which is always yellow in color that is the only plastic that does not need a adheshion promoter for a PLASTIC reapair material to stick
the rest of those need adheshion promoter to stick, becasue they are all offlien thermo-set plastics,
this is what i would do
i would grind very lightly the plastic letters, and use a bit to bevel down the edge, and i would fill it with my plastic welder, let it cool, lightly grinding again, and then run your D.A. with 80, then 120, then 180, blow it off, and before you apply any material on plastic it must be cleaned with either a plastic prep, or you can use a amonia free glass cleaner
then apply the adheshion promoter let it dry for 20mins, then you apply the material, i love and highly recomend fusor products, fusors extreme plastic repair material sticks to the hard to stick plastics, but if its preped right, the product sticks and lasts forever, above mentioned is for the offlien plastics, not polyurathene, with that plastic just clean it off and go
thats how i would do it and have done them, did it on my own car when i frenched in a piece of plastic in the rear bumper, drilling in the plastic doesnt work, nothing else sticks or works on plastic only plastic repair material does and lasts the life time of the car
if ya dont want to believe me hey thats your problem but i have seen bad real bad plastic repair with bondo with fiberglass, holes drilled you name it i have seen it and had to repair the plastic the correct way
if ya want to see my car with the plastic work and some other pieces i have done just ask i`ll post pics of the work
bondo/fiberglass does not and will not stick to a plastic piece, never never fill plastic with bondo!!!!!!
what ya need to do first and foremost with any plastic repair/custom work is to identify the plastic!!!!! is it POLYURATHENE, IS IT TPO/TPE/TEO/PP/ABS/, the you can go from there, with the exception of the polyurathene which is always yellow in color that is the only plastic that does not need a adheshion promoter for a PLASTIC reapair material to stick
the rest of those need adheshion promoter to stick, becasue they are all offlien thermo-set plastics,
this is what i would do
i would grind very lightly the plastic letters, and use a bit to bevel down the edge, and i would fill it with my plastic welder, let it cool, lightly grinding again, and then run your D.A. with 80, then 120, then 180, blow it off, and before you apply any material on plastic it must be cleaned with either a plastic prep, or you can use a amonia free glass cleaner
then apply the adheshion promoter let it dry for 20mins, then you apply the material, i love and highly recomend fusor products, fusors extreme plastic repair material sticks to the hard to stick plastics, but if its preped right, the product sticks and lasts forever, above mentioned is for the offlien plastics, not polyurathene, with that plastic just clean it off and go
thats how i would do it and have done them, did it on my own car when i frenched in a piece of plastic in the rear bumper, drilling in the plastic doesnt work, nothing else sticks or works on plastic only plastic repair material does and lasts the life time of the car
if ya dont want to believe me hey thats your problem but i have seen bad real bad plastic repair with bondo with fiberglass, holes drilled you name it i have seen it and had to repair the plastic the correct way
if ya want to see my car with the plastic work and some other pieces i have done just ask i`ll post pics of the work
07-22-2009, 01:23 PM
#13
thanks guys, and listening to what ive heard so far, ive deemed this job out of my current ability. so i dropped it off to get filled in. ill be the one to go back and paint it, but you guys convinced me that filling the letters in is better left to someone else. you saved me from really screwing my panel today!!
07-23-2009, 02:16 PM
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NO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! AND NO AND NO AND NO!!!!!!!!!!!!!1
bondo/fiberglass does not and will not stick to a plastic piece, never never fill plastic with bondo!!!!!!
what ya need to do first and foremost with any plastic repair/custom work is to identify the plastic!!!!! is it POLYURATHENE, IS IT TPO/TPE/TEO/PP/ABS/, the you can go from there, with the exception of the polyurathene which is always yellow in color that is the only plastic that does not need a adheshion promoter for a PLASTIC reapair material to stick
the rest of those need adheshion promoter to stick, becasue they are all offlien thermo-set plastics,
this is what i would do
i would grind very lightly the plastic letters, and use a bit to bevel down the edge, and i would fill it with my plastic welder, let it cool, lightly grinding again, and then run your D.A. with 80, then 120, then 180, blow it off, and before you apply any material on plastic it must be cleaned with either a plastic prep, or you can use a amonia free glass cleaner
then apply the adheshion promoter let it dry for 20mins, then you apply the material, i love and highly recomend fusor products, fusors extreme plastic repair material sticks to the hard to stick plastics, but if its preped right, the product sticks and lasts forever, above mentioned is for the offlien plastics, not polyurathene, with that plastic just clean it off and go
thats how i would do it and have done them, did it on my own car when i frenched in a piece of plastic in the rear bumper, drilling in the plastic doesnt work, nothing else sticks or works on plastic only plastic repair material does and lasts the life time of the car
if ya dont want to believe me hey thats your problem but i have seen bad real bad plastic repair with bondo with fiberglass, holes drilled you name it i have seen it and had to repair the plastic the correct way
if ya want to see my car with the plastic work and some other pieces i have done just ask i`ll post pics of the work
bondo/fiberglass does not and will not stick to a plastic piece, never never fill plastic with bondo!!!!!!
what ya need to do first and foremost with any plastic repair/custom work is to identify the plastic!!!!! is it POLYURATHENE, IS IT TPO/TPE/TEO/PP/ABS/, the you can go from there, with the exception of the polyurathene which is always yellow in color that is the only plastic that does not need a adheshion promoter for a PLASTIC reapair material to stick
the rest of those need adheshion promoter to stick, becasue they are all offlien thermo-set plastics,
this is what i would do
i would grind very lightly the plastic letters, and use a bit to bevel down the edge, and i would fill it with my plastic welder, let it cool, lightly grinding again, and then run your D.A. with 80, then 120, then 180, blow it off, and before you apply any material on plastic it must be cleaned with either a plastic prep, or you can use a amonia free glass cleaner
then apply the adheshion promoter let it dry for 20mins, then you apply the material, i love and highly recomend fusor products, fusors extreme plastic repair material sticks to the hard to stick plastics, but if its preped right, the product sticks and lasts forever, above mentioned is for the offlien plastics, not polyurathene, with that plastic just clean it off and go
thats how i would do it and have done them, did it on my own car when i frenched in a piece of plastic in the rear bumper, drilling in the plastic doesnt work, nothing else sticks or works on plastic only plastic repair material does and lasts the life time of the car
if ya dont want to believe me hey thats your problem but i have seen bad real bad plastic repair with bondo with fiberglass, holes drilled you name it i have seen it and had to repair the plastic the correct way
if ya want to see my car with the plastic work and some other pieces i have done just ask i`ll post pics of the work
You have a point there, 3M sells plastic bumper filler for small digs in bumpers that were in accidents and sands well. Maybe try that first may work better.
07-23-2009, 11:28 PM
#19
That is strange, When I did my first berger panel it got knocked off of the table I was working on and broke the end off. It broke and frayed like fiberglass so I always thought it was.
I filled my letters in with body filler about 4 years ago with no problems so maybe I have just been lucky.
I filled my letters in with body filler about 4 years ago with no problems so maybe I have just been lucky.
